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count code 3161514528929589 will expire on July 19, 2015.

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Using Your Discount CodeTaking advantage of this discount opportunity is easy! Enter your code in the "How did you hear about us" line of the shopping cart. If you are using our traditional HTML catalog, please click the "Apply" button to the right of the field. Your discount will automatically appear, subtracted from your parts order total. Discount only valid for self-service orders placed online.

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good till September Rockauto discount code 4785806043051664

 

Make sure you disconnect the negative battery terminal before disconnecting anything.

The IAC motor (actually just an LVDT driven plunger) is located in front of the TPS on the throttle body. That is on the right side of the intake, top of engine. It is the second connector on the right side of the throttle body.

A P0508 code will post if the motor is bad or PCM circuit is damaged. The resistance across the two pin motor should be 8-12ohms. If not, replace the IAC valve for about $80.

The two wires are signal and control. If either is shorted to GND, it's the PCM. To be sure, connect an ohm-meter to chassis GND, and the other to IAC connector pin. If either pin registers a short (<~6 ohms), disconnect the C2 connector from the PCM. If the short goes away then your PCM needs to be replaced.

The PCM is in the left corner by the firewall. C2 is the second connector from the top.

This resolved my P0508 code and failure of the truck to maintain idle.
carcomputerexchange.com cost me $300.

 

Sounds good. I may try it!

 

252K on my 2004 5.7

 

I got this code after performing maintenance on the TCC/Overdrive and Governor Sensor/Solenoid. Because the harness comes down thru the top of the transmission I believe some dirt was introduced.
I took the opportunity to order a Dorman Transmission pan with a drain plug. I also took the opportunity to get some KoolKleen Transmission cleaner and my air compressor.

I did not realize the TCC/Overdrive unit had two screens, but when I removed it to check I noticed some funk had made it to them causing this problem. Computer is essentially throwing the code because it notices a pressure difference and puts the transmission into limp mode.

Upon completely cleaning everything and flushing the lines, I put it all back together and dropped new fluid in. Problem has not come back.

So bottom line, check these screens for debris, or a clog. Governor Solenoid also has screens and I went with a upgraded solenoid larger than stock.

This issue cost me about $65 in fluid, but hopefully it saves someone else from making the same mistake. That upper harness on the TCC/Overdrive solenoid/circuit is a PITA. I even considered removing the valve body at one point but how anyone can get into that location with a tool is beyond me. Next to no room to work there.
I'm at 223K.

 

im having this problem, Mark. I put back my old solenoid and sensor. Do you recommend I clean all the wires that go to these parts? My truck currently isn't starting after replaacing those two parts and was running fine before then. 2001 Cummins 4x4 automatic

 

Hi,
So a couple weeks ago the issue came back. I limped to a Transmission shop figuring I'd hit the end of my patience - it has to be something worse. About every 5 minutes on the free way I'd randomly lose over drive and 1st gear. I'd reset the computer and make it another 5 minutes.
Transmission shop said:
Clutch boost valve clip broke, OD snap ring broke, reverse servo piston broke, frictions burnt, lockdown band burnt, bushings scored.

Did a full rebuild $2748 w/ 3 year 50K warranty.
46RE for 01' had some known issues and they applied all the updated parts for the Torque Converter. The Boost valve clip is even mentioned in the book as "This is normally broke".

Everything is working great now.

Mark

 

delete post please

 

So the 'wet carpet/after rain/passenger side' is all over the web/youtube... almost all years/models... voyagers/caravans/town& country/etc.
To access and fix the design flaw you must remove the windshield wipers/cowling cover & wiper assembly tray from the vehicle.




The Problem:
It's an engineering design flaw allowing exterior water (rain/carwash spray) ingress into the air duct plenum via the 6 open ports on the firewall.




They cannot be 'sealed shut' or the climate control system... heat/cool/defrost will not work. It must breathe.
In a nutshell... they have 'designed' an evaporative cooler without any 'pads'.
Imagine a swamp cooler sitting up on your house roof with all four sides exposed to the elements.
When it 'rains' water drops literally explode into smaller 'drops' as they pass through the 'screen' on the cowling and are then sucked in WHOLE into the plenum.
The answer (which works) is to install your own pads and prevent NOTHING but humidity or micro 'mist' into your ductwork.
Your fan and blowers can easily dry/evaporate a SMALL amount of moisture that can pass through the pads via normal air flow.

The Pads:


Walmart in 3 sponge paks for $2 each. You will need a total of 6 (3paks) (18 sponges) for $12 and a hot melt glue gun.
No need to cut them.... The dimensions are perfect for covering the 6 holes.

First: You create 6 double thick pads for the 6 holes.
Glue 2 pads together to create a single double-thick pad.
Use the hot glue around the perimeter of the bottom one... then align & press the second on on top of the first as it cools.
Do this 6 times... You've made 6 pads. You've used 12 sponges.

You next hot glue one double pad over each of the holes.
Apply the glue to the perimeter of the pad and press onto the firewall to completely cover each hole.
**leave sufficient space between adjacent pads for bolt holes to re-install your wiper assembly tray.

When you're done it should look like this:







Finally ....
You've still got 6 sponges left....

You're going to trim and hot glue those as single layer pads to the underside of the cowling like this:



**this final step keeps the driving rain DROPS from 'exploding' as the pass through the (factory designed) 'screen'... to be sucked into the plenum as water spray.
Your 'pads' are a much better design to prevent this 'explosion' of water into your assembly tray.

You're done.
Everything can breathe and your vehicle will stay dry and smell nice.
cheers.