death wobble
#21
05-13-2014, 08:48 PM
I have the same problem with my 01 ram 1500, but, the problem is that I've had all of my suspension in the front replaced as with a remanufactured steering gearbox. Mine has the death wobble at 50 mph, and it's horrible. I put a 5" lift on the truck and replaced all of my front suspension then...but about a year later, I got broad sided at my driver side front wheel...to which the suspension was replaced. Am I going to have to replace everything all over again???
#23
05-15-2014, 10:55 PM
Record Breaker
Dodge death wobble is not exclusive to one individual component.
Stearing half shafts, stearing box, tie rods ( drag link) ball joints, stearing stabilzers are band aids masking issues causing wheels going all helter skelter.
Rough country's dual stearing stabilizer kit, or equal brand is worth investing in but it will not solve excessive play in ball joints.
Drag links falling off the wheel hub ( personal experience) are so common on dodge HD Rams.
When I was forced to rebuild my sold axle, serviceable ball joints and u joints were used..
Stearing half shafts, stearing box, tie rods ( drag link) ball joints, stearing stabilzers are band aids masking issues causing wheels going all helter skelter.
Rough country's dual stearing stabilizer kit, or equal brand is worth investing in but it will not solve excessive play in ball joints.
Drag links falling off the wheel hub ( personal experience) are so common on dodge HD Rams.
When I was forced to rebuild my sold axle, serviceable ball joints and u joints were used..
#25
11-05-2014, 02:31 PM
Registered User
actually sorted out the dreaded DW
I have an 03 2500 diesel. I kept it stock height which offers plenty of clearance as it is. have had it for about 7 years with only the minimal water pump (twice) and steering box replacements.
about a month ago I notice what I thought was just crappy highway road surface. but then it appeared on another highway. hmmm...... anything over 60 mph and it makes a strange sound and wobble.
I went to one of the most reliable sources of up to date info in know - this forum.
I must have read a dozen threads on the subject and the more I read the less I liked. but, at least there was an avenue or direction.
ok, the first and least costly start was to visit the tire store to have the wheels balanced.
$50 later and the problem is still here. but, I know how much new tires cost as they did their best to convince me I needed new ones. ($1400 for new BFG's) yea, right!!
the truck is 11 y/o. I can do shocks because... I can do shocks.
a new set of ranchos later and wubba bubba bubba. (DW sound)
well, ball joints don't cost that much. lets give that a go. I have an impact gun. and I can rent a ball joint puller from the autozone.
first piece of advice: no matter how many videos you watch of guys pulling ball joints and then pressing them in exclaiming "and, there it goes!!" BS!!!!!!
I had impressed myself by actually pulling the axel without drawing blood. got the ball joints out after a drawn out battle. top one went in. again, no blood. but the bottom one had other ideas that day. came close.
ok, I give in. its back off to the tire place. hey guys, remember me? $90 per ball and I'm on the highway only to year wubba bubba bubba at 6o mph. yea, ok...
back to the threads.
lets track down some steering linkage. oooh, there's an upgraded one. from dodge!!
how come this costs $480 at one site $400 at another and $375 at yet another? I felt pretty good scoring a set up for $241+$40 shipping.
I'm almost too embarrassed to go back to the tire store when I cant remove the pitman arm. sometimes these MF's JUST WONT COME OFF!!!!!!
the puller I rented (same store) was flexing too much for my comfort. didn't want to return it broken.
ok, I have a buddy who needs a few $$. he works on cars. another $150 later and I have new steering linkage, new pitman arm, new rancho stabilizer and new track arm bushings. oh, yea, he had a press as well. good thing too. still, it took him almost an hour to remove that damn pitman arm.
got the thing up to 75 mph right after. whats that sound... I DONT HEAR!!!! NO DW!!!! ITS ALIVE!!!!! again.
this morning, just to put another nail in the DW's coffin, I installed the steering box stabilizer. not too bad. 'THIS' I can do!!
test drive was like driving a new truck. yaaaay!!!
if I had to do it again... I'd start with the track bar bushings. they were only $26 delivered. (I heard) they were an easy install.
then I would go to the upgraded steering linkage and pitman arm.
I would add the steering box stabilizer for good measure. it doesn't cost that much. $120 for peace of mind. and it really does beef it up down there.
if this post helps anyone uncertain about the dreaded DW please feel free to reply directly to me. this forum saved me big $$$ by doing (most of it) ok, some of it my self.
but, even I didn't do the tough work - I acted as general. still - I saved easily $1000 on labor costs.
I know there are several readers and posters who know so much more about this stuff than I do on this forum. thank you for your posts and advice.
this was just a recap of my experience overcoming the dreaded DW!
about a month ago I notice what I thought was just crappy highway road surface. but then it appeared on another highway. hmmm...... anything over 60 mph and it makes a strange sound and wobble.
I went to one of the most reliable sources of up to date info in know - this forum.
I must have read a dozen threads on the subject and the more I read the less I liked. but, at least there was an avenue or direction.
ok, the first and least costly start was to visit the tire store to have the wheels balanced.
$50 later and the problem is still here. but, I know how much new tires cost as they did their best to convince me I needed new ones. ($1400 for new BFG's) yea, right!!
the truck is 11 y/o. I can do shocks because... I can do shocks.
a new set of ranchos later and wubba bubba bubba. (DW sound)
well, ball joints don't cost that much. lets give that a go. I have an impact gun. and I can rent a ball joint puller from the autozone.
first piece of advice: no matter how many videos you watch of guys pulling ball joints and then pressing them in exclaiming "and, there it goes!!" BS!!!!!!
I had impressed myself by actually pulling the axel without drawing blood. got the ball joints out after a drawn out battle. top one went in. again, no blood. but the bottom one had other ideas that day. came close.
ok, I give in. its back off to the tire place. hey guys, remember me? $90 per ball and I'm on the highway only to year wubba bubba bubba at 6o mph. yea, ok...
back to the threads.
lets track down some steering linkage. oooh, there's an upgraded one. from dodge!!
how come this costs $480 at one site $400 at another and $375 at yet another? I felt pretty good scoring a set up for $241+$40 shipping.
I'm almost too embarrassed to go back to the tire store when I cant remove the pitman arm. sometimes these MF's JUST WONT COME OFF!!!!!!
the puller I rented (same store) was flexing too much for my comfort. didn't want to return it broken.
ok, I have a buddy who needs a few $$. he works on cars. another $150 later and I have new steering linkage, new pitman arm, new rancho stabilizer and new track arm bushings. oh, yea, he had a press as well. good thing too. still, it took him almost an hour to remove that damn pitman arm.
got the thing up to 75 mph right after. whats that sound... I DONT HEAR!!!! NO DW!!!! ITS ALIVE!!!!! again.
this morning, just to put another nail in the DW's coffin, I installed the steering box stabilizer. not too bad. 'THIS' I can do!!
test drive was like driving a new truck. yaaaay!!!
if I had to do it again... I'd start with the track bar bushings. they were only $26 delivered. (I heard) they were an easy install.
then I would go to the upgraded steering linkage and pitman arm.
I would add the steering box stabilizer for good measure. it doesn't cost that much. $120 for peace of mind. and it really does beef it up down there.
if this post helps anyone uncertain about the dreaded DW please feel free to reply directly to me. this forum saved me big $$$ by doing (most of it) ok, some of it my self.
but, even I didn't do the tough work - I acted as general. still - I saved easily $1000 on labor costs.
I know there are several readers and posters who know so much more about this stuff than I do on this forum. thank you for your posts and advice.
this was just a recap of my experience overcoming the dreaded DW!
Last edited by snapankle; 11-05-2014 at 02:45 PM.
#26
09-09-2016, 02:29 PM
#27
09-09-2016, 04:50 PM
This is for SoldierMan6. I have had my 04 1500 for 11 years now and for the first 5 or 6 years I spent literally thousands of dollars on everything from new tires and wheels to road-force testing and alignment, cross-drilled rotors, etc., etc., It is now something I just deal with. I have noticed it is a little worse when it is colder out and not warmed up and always shows up around 40mph. Did change a little bit with taller tires. I have been told the best answer is it is in the 545RFE. The trans is a solid unit and have never had any problems (run a cortex with trans. tune) so I am going to leave that one alone. Glad you mentioned something because I thought it may have something to do with IFS and the torsion bars combination on the 4WD. My truck is fully stock front end and does not wear tires abnormally and the suspension is still in great shape (why I have left it stock).
Maybe someone here on the site can shed a little light on why these models do this. Is it the angle of the dangle between the front and rear? I have had older pickup trucks that had some serious rake to them and never had this issue!!!
Maybe someone here on the site can shed a little light on why these models do this. Is it the angle of the dangle between the front and rear? I have had older pickup trucks that had some serious rake to them and never had this issue!!!
