Help. I just had new brake pads put on my 2004 Dodge Ram 1500 and the brakes seem to be boggy. The mechanic tells me there is nothing to be done that you do not bleed air from the lines on this truck after replacing pads. Is this right? If so what to I do/ When you press down the brake pedad there is a air sound and it just does not feel right.

 

your mech is correct. you SHOULDN'T have to bleed. only when you fis a brake line. by what your descibing u may have a broken line somewhere, or your master cylinder is going out..... get underneath and look for brake fluid

 

if you can't find any fluid just jumping out at you, start monitoring your fluid levels in your brake fluid reservoir.....if its dropping or low, you know you have a problem.

 

New brake pads take a bit to wear in. That is quite normal for them to feel a bit different at first. This is especially true if you only replaced pads and did not have the disks turned.

 

+1
If the tech didn't properly bed them in after replacement, they'll feel a little rubbery. Do 5 or 6 moderately agressive (about 50% braking power) stops from 25-30 mph. Then let them cool a bit and do a few stops from 45-50 (like you're stopping for a stop light that you noticed turned yellow a bit late). Don't be too agressive with the brakes, but you want to generate some heat so they'll set in.

 

You guys are all wrong, ABS systems need to be, not bleed, but the release valve has to be open when pushing the cylinder/piston back in. Too much pressure on the ABS system going the wrong way can cause problems. I know cause the bastards at the Ford dealership changed my wife's old mustang's brake pads and they ruined the master cylinder. They just pushed the cylinder/piston back in as if it were a non-ABS car. After they ruined it the firsttime, the pedal felt very spongy and would travel all the way down. It costs $180 to do the brakes only thefront. I did aHonda non-ABS in 25 minutes both front disks. A mechanic with power tools, can take him 30 minutes for ABS, thats $360 an hour. I tell you, I dont think a Dodge engineer makes that much.

 

That's one reason why I always open the bleeder value a bit when I compress the caliber piston. This squirts the old dirty fluid out to a catch-can (though aquarium air line attached to the bleeder) instead of up into the ABS and/or master cylinder. Merely forcing the old fluid back in to the master cylinder has a chance of fouling necessitating its replacement--and they can be pricey. This happened to me once. It's also a good idea to flush the fluid at every brake job to get all the old fluid out of the system.

 

I would like to thank you guys for all your5 responses. My husband has always taken care of theses things in the past but now he has cancer and heart problems so I am taking care of everything. I grew up around cars and racing so I am fine with this as long as I have the knowledge to make sure it is done right. My huisband found this truck and thought it ws gong to be his till I started it up and heard the rumble of the pipes. That is when I told him it was my truck! I will include a picture sometime as it is a ladies truck with the chrome nad graphics.
Thanks,
CJ

 

Sorry for replying to an old thread. I'm trying to replace the brakes on my 2k4 Ram and haven't done brakes in YEARS. Looking at the service manual, I see no mention of bleeding the ABS when compressing the brake piston. Anyone got a book reference on this? If not, where's the bleed valve for the ABS?