If you are a do-it-yourselfer the I would just reccomend going to advanced or orielys and ordering as far above their cheapest one as you want to pay and replace it your self. a key when or if you do it yourself...don't try to unbolt the bellhousing from the block first instead unbolt the trany from the bellhousing first and drop it the do the bellhousing. it will save you a lot of hassel when takeing it down and aligning it back up. if you decide to take it to someone to do it for you make sure you tell them that you want the old friction disc and press plate. the only reason for this is to make sure that they replace it...
Ummm??? Yeah, I don't think that will work unless you a magician! You do realize that the pressure plate and clutch disc are sandwiched between the bellhousing and the engine? They are bolted right to the flywheel? You need to take the bellhousing off in order to get to the clutch itself! All that is needed is to tilt the engine so the bellhousing can slide past the firewall. I usually use a piece of wood and a jack and start cranking up on the crank pulley. That or use a ratchet strap that goes under the crank pulley and goes to each strut tower and start cranking.
For someone who has never done a clutch before is much better off paying to have it installed especially with a 4x4.
Also, most garages can scrounge up an old pressure plate and disc to hand over to the customer if they really wanted to. It's one of those things that if you really want to be sure they replace it, you'd better be down there watching them.
One key is to BUT ALL PARTS NEEDED and just have a garage do the installation. Chances are they will install everything you give them because there's no additional money to be made where as if you bought the parts from them, they could pocket the money and "freshen" up your old parts. Most places these days will do customers right. Most business are part of the BBB.
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Vehicle: 2004 RAM 1500 with the all powerfull 4.7l
Location: Dyersburg, Tn
Posts: 198
yes I understand that what i ment was to take the trany off first it allows the most room to get the trany out without the bellhousing. plus it is easier to unbolt and remove the bellhousing by itsself rather than all @ once. I was going to make the statement 'do you really think i am that mechanically challenged' but I have read a lot of post and I canunderstand why you would pose the question. I'm just the guy who only trust his self to do the work. after being on a submarine for 5years you learn it's best that way
__________________ '04 4.7L,CAI,custom cat back no exhaust exhaust system
'07 Boulevard M50
'07 Jeep Commander
No one has mentioned the throw out bearing, if the clutch and pressure plate are 100% and the the throw out bearing is toast, nothing is going to work.
I have close to the same miles on my 06 2500 hemi 4wd with the 6sp, my clutch is still like new, and I work this truck.
The 6sp manuals use the same transfluid as a dodge automatic, also check the clutch fluid, thier hydrolic.
Vehicle: 2004 RAM 1500 with the all powerfull 4.7l
Location: Dyersburg, Tn
Posts: 198
Quote:
Originally Posted by cyclone429
No one has mentioned the throw out bearing, if the clutch and pressure plate are 100% and the the throw out bearing is toast, nothing is going to work.
not entirely true the only thing that the throughout bearing will effect is you grinding vice not grinding grears when shifting and like wise for the power clutch fluid. either the bearings in the throughout bearing are bad and the make a horrible noise when the cluth is depressed or the clutch not having enough fluid will not fully engage the throughout bearing thus causeing grinding not slippage...
__________________ '04 4.7L,CAI,custom cat back no exhaust exhaust system
'07 Boulevard M50
'07 Jeep Commander
Just talked to Woodhouse Dodge and I told them the systems and they are leaning thinking it is a bad flywheel causing the problem which would be under warranty. But that has yet to be seen. OH what to do. ?????
Didn't think of that. Would be nice if you got it fixed for free! Hopefully they'd put in a new clutch, since the flywheel and clutch are machined/contoured to mate in a certain way. I'd think that a bum flywheel would damage the clutch.
You do realize that the pressure plate and clutch disc are sandwiched between the bellhousing and the engine? They are bolted right to the flywheel?
You need to take the bellhousing off in order to get to the clutch itself! All that is needed is to tilt the engine so the bellhousing can slide past the firewall. I usually use a piece of wood and a jack and start cranking up on the crank pulley. That or use a ratchet strap that goes under the crank pulley and goes to each strut tower and start cranking.
