Guys, I have heard so much great stuff about seafoam, but recently got a horror story.
Seafoam actually cleans out the cylinder so good that all of the lube is taken out with it. If you do not take it slow and let it idle for awhile (with a good oil) it will actually burn out some of your seals until it gets lube in the cylinder.
Clear this up for me...this all came from a 75y/o mechanic so it might be old school engines or something
It is somewhat true. People think Seafoam is just some additive, but you need to know what you're doing.
You should not have to give it ANY throttle. You should feed it VERY slowly to let the engine naturally keep the RPMs high. You're opening up a vacuum line, the RPMs will surge.
If it takes you under 8 minutes to use 1/3 of the bottle, you're doing it wrong and wasting the product. NEVER completely submerge the vacuum line in the liquid. In reality, the vacuum line should hardly even go into the liquid. You want it to suck the liquid drop by drop. Once you're done, turn off the motor. Let the motor set for five minutes. Turn it back on, get oil pressure, and take it WOT. This is hard on fly by wire. You want the intake completely open and shut before the RPMs can catch up. The exhaust should billow smoke out the back. Do this over and over until there is no more smoke.
Ideally, you should have a gravity feed drip system with a petcock to regulate flow, but hand-eye coordination works just fine.
When I was a teenager working in a shop, I never believed in Seafoam or any other crap like it. One day a Ford came in misfiring horribly. The idle sounded like it was going to stall. We ran Seafoam through it with a drip system and it idled perfectly. I was in disbelief.
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You need someone in the truck, keeping it wound up. It will die without some extra revs. Helped the idle and throttle response in mine, but it's probably only needed about ever 12K.
Just like Rebeltilldeath3 said its a one man job and you don't pour it in. You just let the vacum line suck it in slowly. I've done this by myself countless times.
Guys, I have heard so much great stuff about seafoam, but recently got a horror story.
Seafoam actually cleans out the cylinder so good that all of the lube is taken out with it. If you do not take it slow and let it idle for awhile (with a good oil) it will actually burn out some of your seals until it gets lube in the cylinder.
Clear this up for me...this all came from a 75y/o mechanic so it might be old school engines or something
Kinda sorta...it's more that seafoam has solvents in it that aren't good for seals. Over time if you use too much you could have problems...but that goes for too much of anything. If you drink too much water too fast without replacing electrolytes/salt you'll die.
I havent done it to my truck yet. Anyone hear of it fouling O2 sensors? That's what i was afraid of. I always pulled my air hose and put it right in the throttle body. That way it cleans the TB too and its direct as how much is going in.
I've done it to a few Cherokees and it makes a nice smoke show but never really noticed huge results. Its fun to do though.
My method is to warm the motor up and start sipping it in until you feel like you have about 1/3 of the can left.. then dump it in heavier and stall the motor with it. Wait 15 minutes and start the motor. Let it idle pumping smoke until the smoke starts to dissapate.. then raise the rpms to about 2000.. till it dissapates.. then to 3000.. 4000.. and then a few good revs and that takes care of the smoke.
You can just go through the PCV valve. I thought that was easiest when i did it to my Mustang.
Do as Rebel says to for thorough cleaning. Quick gas jabs. Not finessing it, doing that will run your rpms up higher and for much longer. I was only able to get 1/4 can out before I got too impatient.
I'd say unless you are having problems, just get some Lucas Fuel injector cleaner. great stuff!!!
Also, Marvel mystery in your oil and you can drive until you change the oil. Seafoam needs to be drained 5minutes after being poured into your oil. Seafoam is bad in every way for your seals. i would reccomend keeping the seafoam use to a minimum and not using it in your gas or oil. Marvel has lubrication additives. Seafoam is just a rugged cleaner and leaves everything it touches DRY.
Pour some Seafoam on your fingertip and work it in with your thumb. it will dry and make a white residue on your hands. It's like alcohol on rubber o-rings. Now take Lucas injector or Marvel oil and pour it on your fingers. it's like oil. Big difference.
Pouring Seafoam in your crankcase can be very good for the sludge, but just remember that it's like pouring water in your oil. Think what it can do to your bearings if left in there????? Again, i like Marvel mystery oil for that stuff. I use that stuff in an oil change once maybe every 4 or 5 oil changes when i had my Chevy. It quieted my tick down quite a bit. I haven't tried it in the Hemi yet, but it puts almost a polish coating on all the parts and helps protect them against wear. It is not like Lucas stabilizer which is just a 50w oil like all other brands. Marvel is very thin, but not like seafoam. Seafoam smells and pours like Paint thinner.
Again, put Marvel Mystery oil in your crankcase and Lucas Fuel injector cleaner in your gas tank. This will clean out everything possible except the intake belly where the seafoam touches.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chadlee1261
ohh, you mean the factory 345hp is crank hp. well crap.
It is somewhat true. People think Seafoam is just some additive, but you need to know what you're doing.
You should not have to give it ANY throttle. You should feed it VERY slowly to let the engine naturally keep the RPMs high. You're opening up a vacuum line, the RPMs will surge.
If it takes you under 8 minutes to use 1/3 of the bottle, you're doing it wrong and wasting the product. NEVER completely submerge the vacuum line in the liquid. In reality, the vacuum line should hardly even go into the liquid. You want it to suck the liquid drop by drop. Once you're done, turn off the motor. Let the motor set for five minutes. Turn it back on, get oil pressure, and take it WOT. This is hard on fly by wire. You want the intake completely open and shut before the RPMs can catch up. The exhaust should billow smoke out the back. Do this over and over until there is no more smoke.
Ideally, you should have a gravity feed drip system with a petcock to regulate flow, but hand-eye coordination works just fine.
When I was a teenager working in a shop, I never believed in Seafoam or any other crap like it. One day a Ford came in misfiring horribly. The idle sounded like it was going to stall. We ran Seafoam through it with a drip system and it idled perfectly. I was in disbelief.
That is exactly right. I have seen so many people do the Seafoam the wrong way. I swear by this stuff. I have seen it used in Lycoming airplane engines with great results also...
