Does the stock radio have the outputs for a sub amp or do I have to go aftermarket?
This ad is not displayed to registered and logged-in members. Register your free account today and become a member on Dodge Forums!
__________________
03 QC 1500 Ram 4x4 5.7 V8
K&N CAI 37x13.5x18 FC-II 18" Procomp 1059
Magnaflow Dual Exhaust 3" P.A. Body Lift
146,000 plus miles and still running strong!
Sponsored Links
Registered users do not see this ad. Click here to register for free!
mine did i had my sub wired with my stock radio for like 3 months
__________________ Silver Truck Club #2 K&N 57 CAI, SC 3865, FM 50, Cooper Zeon LTZs, Hella 500's, AM Trans Temp Gauge with Srt Pillar, 6000k HIDS in Heads/Fogs, Eclipse Head-unit, Alpine Speakers, 12'' JL Audio w3 w/ fox box, Barracuda Alarm, Westin Nerf Bars, Painted Grill, Mirrors, Door Handles, Radio Bezel, Front Bumper Trim, and Badges. Surprises Soon
Cool. What was the wiring order? I havent done this in like 6 years so I have forgotten how to rig it up. Ofbviosly I know how to do the ground. But the +12v, is that where I run the line from the battery? What is the REM line supposed to run to?
__________________
03 QC 1500 Ram 4x4 5.7 V8
K&N CAI 37x13.5x18 FC-II 18" Procomp 1059
Magnaflow Dual Exhaust 3" P.A. Body Lift
146,000 plus miles and still running strong!
__________________ Silver Truck Club #2 K&N 57 CAI, SC 3865, FM 50, Cooper Zeon LTZs, Hella 500's, AM Trans Temp Gauge with Srt Pillar, 6000k HIDS in Heads/Fogs, Eclipse Head-unit, Alpine Speakers, 12'' JL Audio w3 w/ fox box, Barracuda Alarm, Westin Nerf Bars, Painted Grill, Mirrors, Door Handles, Radio Bezel, Front Bumper Trim, and Badges. Surprises Soon
Thats alright, hopefully someone will chime in . Thanks anyway.
__________________
03 QC 1500 Ram 4x4 5.7 V8
K&N CAI 37x13.5x18 FC-II 18" Procomp 1059
Magnaflow Dual Exhaust 3" P.A. Body Lift
146,000 plus miles and still running strong!
No factory units that I have seen have RCA outs on the back for a sub. That requires a seperate channel. Now maybe if you had the Infinity stereo it may have one.
Anyways, no you don't have to go aftermarket radio. You can do a line output converter. Transfers speakerwire into RCA plugs. There are units like JL cleansweep and Rockford 3sixtyOne. May wanna look into those if keeping your factory unit and running a sub. Most factory units destroy sub quality as they need a seperate line for a diff. frequency range. The two listed above fix this issue although they can be expensive. Line output converter can be bought at Walmart or Radio Shack for like $15 but it will be a degraded sub quality. if your running lower end subs you probably won't even notice the difference!
Yellow wire is Ignition
Red wire is 12v+ constant
Blue wire is Remote wire. You'll want to tie this in with the ignition wire.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by chadlee1261
ohh, you mean the factory 345hp is crank hp. well crap.
No factory units that I have seen have RCA outs on the back for a sub. That requires a seperate channel. Now maybe if you had the Infinity stereo it may have one.
Anyways, no you don't have to go aftermarket radio. You can do a line output converter. Transfers speakerwire into RCA plugs. There are units like JL cleansweep and Rockford 3sixtyOne. May wanna look into those if keeping your factory unit and running a sub. Most factory units destroy sub quality as they need a seperate line for a diff. frequency range. The two listed above fix this issue although they can be expensive. Line output converter can be bought at Walmart or Radio Shack for like $15 but it will be a degraded sub quality. if your running lower end subs you probably won't even notice the difference!
Yellow wire is Ignition
Red wire is 12v+ constant
Blue wire is Remote wire. You'll want to tie this in with the ignition wire.
DirtyDog is right about sub quality with Line output converters. In my Chrysler 300 I used a LOC and it was a train wreck! What happens with the majority of factory stereos (not sure about the premium lines) is the stereo cuts down the bass at a certain volume level so as not to blow the factory speakers.... well... quite often this leaves the Sub Woofers popping and cracking as the deck is "cutting out the bass" and it just sounds horrible. In my Chrysler 300 I couldn't turn the volume up above 20 without having this problem. I used a cheaper Line Output Converter however.
In my previous car audio experiences, it's well worth buying an aftermarket deck and the PROPER wiring harness converting kit so it's all just "plug and play". The reason I didn't do this with my 300 is because I had the steering wheel stereo controls.
The reason I didn't do this with my 300 is because I had the steering wheel stereo controls.
You shouldn't have let that deter you. There are different H/U manufacturers out there that make decks with remote button support. They are a little more though.
__________________
Mein Kampf- Yes, I have one of my own
Is now creating sigs Look
Red Truck Club Number 7
To vote in polls
1. Member for 30 days
2. 50 or more posts!
I never touch steering wheel buttons. i like to touch the radio itself. I have changed out the radio in a few of my own cars and it didn't bother me that the steering controls were useless and just looked good.
I never even use my wife's steering controls in her car when I'm driving. i always use the radio. It's something about placement and akwardness of steering controls that I don't like. I drive with my left hand at 7o'clock most of the time, so most controls are useless especially if you need your right hand to use them. I just go to the radio at that point.
However, yes there are modules that can be had for certain vehicles based upon stereo manufacturer you go with. Go to Crutchfield's website and get all the part numbers and information you need and then hit up ebay or Sonicelectronix for 1/2 the price of Crutchfield.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by chadlee1261
ohh, you mean the factory 345hp is crank hp. well crap.
Radio/subs question
