I searched and i read its really hard to come off just keep wiggling it off.. But mine just doesnt want to come off! i dontknow what to do? I removed the long caliper bolts but it still wont budge really. There these other two bolts that are like 13/16 they wont budge lol. so is there any clips holding this caliper on? heres a pic of my brakes.. someone please help! thanks!
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with the engine off, open the brake fluid reservoir cap on the master cylinder. You can carefully pry the caliper off going behind the brake pad. the horseshoe areas in your pic. it only takes a little bit to free it up, then it should slide and rotate off.
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"towing with 3.55's is like pedaling a bicycle into the wind"
Silver Truck Club Member #1 2004 4x4 QC 5.7 HEMI
6" fabtech lift, 315/70/17 BFG A/T's on some eagles, TrailFX tube steps,limo tint
Get a pry bar and dead blow and beat the **** out of it. You're not going to hurt it, unless you start smashing the brake line. Hit the front, hit the back, hit the front, hit the back, etc. etc. You'll break it loose. Take your time and don't be scared of breaking anything, because you won't. I've taken 8lb sledgers to calipers before, no damage done.
Worst comes to worst, take the saddle off with the caliper. The saddle is held on my the other two bolts.
I was also going to say you can get a large screwdriver or small prybar and wedge in the holes in the top of the caliper against the piston and rotor to free it off the rotor. Ive had to do that before
I was also going to say you can get a large screwdriver or small prybar and wedge in the holes in the top of the caliper against the piston and rotor to free it off the rotor. Ive had to do that before
The caliper doesn't stick to the rotor. It binds/sticks in the saddle. That may have worked that time, but it was a horrible idea. You could have cracked the rotor or damaged the piston.
You want to pry between the saddle and caliper.
The only reason the piston is an issue is it's taking away slack to wiggle the caliper out of the saddle.
The caliper doesn't stick to the rotor. It binds/sticks in the saddle. That may have worked that time, but it was a horrible idea. You could have cracked the rotor or damaged the piston.
You want to pry between the saddle and caliper.
The only reason the piston is an issue is it's taking away slack to wiggle the caliper out of the saddle.
you can do it and grab just the pad and not damage the piston or anything else. I have never had to beat on a caliper to get it free. I also turn the wheel im working on out towards me so i can see a little better when im doing brakes.
__________________
"towing with 3.55's is like pedaling a bicycle into the wind"
Silver Truck Club Member #1 2004 4x4 QC 5.7 HEMI
6" fabtech lift, 315/70/17 BFG A/T's on some eagles, TrailFX tube steps,limo tint
you can do it and grab just the pad and not damage the piston or anything else. I have never had to beat on a caliper to get it free. I also turn the wheel im working on out towards me so i can see a little better when im doing brakes.
I've had to do it on every Chrysler vehicle I've worked on. Chrysler needs to pay TRW more money to get decent God damn brakes.
At either the top or bottom of the caliper (depends on which side your doing), there's a small tab that locates underneath the caliper adaptor.
This tab MUST be pushed down/up from underneath the caliper adaptor freeing it.
You can then wiggle the caliper up/down the adaptor, until it's free by using a small pry bar.
MAKE SURE you don't nip/tear the rubber gators fitted around the caliper pistons.
The calipers will eventually come off if you adopt the "rocking" back/forth method previously mentioned.
Spray the entire area with brake cleaner to get rid of a lot of the accumulated dirt/dust/debris before you do this and you will get them off eventually.
As stated, don't be frightened by applying a bit of force with the pry bar. Just work out if the calipers binding or hung up as you go so you don't snap anything, which would be pretty difficult.
Hope this helps?
Al.
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One thing as a side note,I would't leave my truck on a Jack Stand on soft grass for too long. Careful pry bar application between the caliper and the saddle may do it. Two pry bars back to back one acting as a fulcrum for the second one in the gap between the saddle and the caliper has worked well for me in the past.
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My caliper wont come off! I need help :D
