Hey guys, I've got a question for you 4.7L owners out there. Has anyone ran a nitrous setup on their 4.7L Ram? If not have you read anything on it on any of the other foums?
I know That our blocks have very thin spacing between the top of the pistons and the rings. But it should be able to handle a 75 dry shot no problems right?
Thanks guys!
Jeff
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Do a search for blown head gaskets on 4.7l's, they are famous for cookin head gaskets. Also, the top ring groove is VERY close to the top of the piston, any kind of malfunction in a NOS system will most likely be catastrophic in nature. If you are serious about gassin A 4.7, put new head gaskets on, and install head studs to keep them from blowing. Felpro gaskets with a good coat of copper coat and head studs will keep the top end buttoned up.
Do a search for blown head gaskets on 4.7l's, they are famous for cookin head gaskets. Also, the top ring groove is VERY close to the top of the piston, any kind of malfunction in a NOS system will most likely be catastrophic in nature. If you are serious about gassin A 4.7, put new head gaskets on, and install head studs to keep them from blowing. Felpro gaskets with a good coat of copper coat and head studs will keep the top end buttoned up.
Common misconception that Nitrous increases cylinder pressure to blow the headgaskets. N20 will not increase pressure inside the chamber. It is merely compressed gas so it can squeeze more in the same space. It does not increase pressure.
Detonation is the major failure for engines running N20.
Dry kits are a thing of the past. if going with Nitrous, you want to get a WET KIT.
A proper Nitrous set-up will cost around $1500 not including bottle fills. A 75shot will get you roughly 6-7 1/4mi runs. Fills here in NY are crazy at $65 per 10lb bottle. That means it would costs me $10 everytime you open up the bottle since you must purge first and then do the run. If you cannot afford to spend $1500. Then I would not Install a Nitrous set-up on your vehicle. There are many "starter" kits that are listed as complete which gets you not even half of what you need.
For example, you def want a fuel shut-off solonoid incase you run lean. You NEED a bottle warmer because it would take about 1-2hours to get up to temperature just for the proper mixture and ideally, the temp should be within a certain window. A hot bottle would cause a lean mix and a cold bottle would cause a Rich mix. Do one run and your bottle temp will be freezing cold and you will only see maybe a 35-40 shot for your 2nd run instead of a 75shot.
Your 4.7L can handle a 100shot with no issu'es as long as you properly install everything using a Wet kit. I HIGHLY reccomend NX Iceman solonoids. There is nothing out there that compares to the consistent mix that those give off. For ex. an NX Iceman solonoid rated for a 100shot will give you damn near 100rwhp. The way overrated NOS solonoids rated for 100shot will only give 75-80ishrwhp and no where near the consistency as NX solonoids.
I tried both kits on my Mustang. The NX Dynoed within 2-3rwhp for an entire bottle of 6 runs. The NOS solonoids varied up to 10rwhp for the entire bottle not to mention the fact that they didn't produce near the same HP as they are suppose to.20-25rwhp less than comparable NX solonoids.(NX= Nitrous Express)
That was not an isolated incedent. I'm sure there are articles all over the web.
Generally for a street runner. Purchasing a used supercharger is the way to go. It's cost effective in the long run. More dependable and easier to install. Ohh, and the power is there all the time vs just on occasion.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chadlee1261
ohh, you mean the factory 345hp is crank hp. well crap.
Common misconception that Nitrous increases cylinder pressure to blow the headgaskets. N20 will not increase pressure inside the chamber. It is merely compressed gas so it can squeeze more in the same space. It does not increase pressure.
soooooo very wrong. you most certainly do increase in cylinder peak pressure with nitrous.
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04' 1500 QC SLT 4x4 HEMI She ain't a pavement queen, she's a ROAD WARRIOR
soooooo very wrong. you most certainly do increase in cylinder peak pressure with nitrous.
Sure the pressure of the gas is greatly increased but Nitorus oxide is 50% more dense than air at the same pressure. One cubic foot of N20 contains 2.3x's as much oxygen as 1 cu/ft of air.
ADDING EXTRA FUEL is what causes higher dynamic cylinder pressures. NOT the N20 itself!!!
Regardless, would you question adding a centrifugal supercharger that added 100rwhp. Many, many guys do it and have no problem. That same 100rwhp created by a centrifugal S/C'er costs the engine like 30-40% in power consumption. Throwing a 100shot of Nitrous is equivelant of 60-70rwhp from what a supercharger would give.
In the end. Less engine work-out for more power.
Nitrous is safer than any Supercharger granted it's installed correctly and not thrown together with a $500 "kit" that calls itself complete.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chadlee1261
ohh, you mean the factory 345hp is crank hp. well crap.
Interesting response, but to debate a point, dry shots are not a thing of the past and there is no reason to do a wet shot if he doesnt desire. There is no puddling of fuel with a dry shot b/c you upgrade the injectors to make up the fuel difference. A 75 shot should be just fine with stock injectors, no puddling=no backfire. Also he does not NEED a bottle heater. He COULD get a NANO system which is instant pressure and keeps it consistant throughout the entire run, unlike a bottle heater which takes time to build pressure and loses it during a pass.
Nitrous setup on a 2005 4.7L
