'97 Voyager, 6 cyl...
Is there a special tool I can use to get at the 3 spark plugs on the back side of the engine? The front three are easy, but the back three look almost impossible. What's the trick to this job?

Thanks,

Bill

 

#3 & #5 can be reached from underneath.
Just get real friendly with the the exhaust pipe.
A universal swivel is needed. Connect with a socket or using a flat racheting box end wrench can work. I connected it to a spark plug socket with a wrench end.
It fit over the end.

Getting the wires off and not loosing a knuckle is the trick.

Front #1 is the tough one. I ended up removing the bolts connecting the alternator bracket.
And that gave me enough room to loosen it from the top passenger side.
putting them in was easy.

Good Luck

 

i'll let you know like tonight, i mostly likely doing a tune-up on moms '00 Sport with the 3.3 today(sunday), I have a very nice set of MAC spark plug sockets, & wobble extentions, so i'm prepared!!!

my '94 GC is pretty easy, i've done it enough times to know the tricks

-greg

 

okay just did moms tonight

new NGK platinums & premium autolite wires (which are very nice)

fronts of course are a piece of cake

rears require patience

#3 & #5 have to be done undernieth

#1 is easiest with the little alternator bracket removed & some smaller hands, mine are big & i could barely get around in there

took me about 3 hours, doing it with the van on a lift prolly be pretty easy, & plus now i know what to do, I could prolly knock it out in about an hour, less with a lift

hope it helps any

also have a buddy there to help out & to take out aggression onto, lol

-greg

 

I removed the upper intake.It's not that hard and according to the times I have read here it didn't take any longer.

 

I talked with several chrysler techs that call the #1 plug the optional plug. The problem is that is the one you want to see because that is a common head gasket leak area and the condition of this plug is a good determiner of head conditiion. Bracket removal is probably the fastest like the others have said. Climb under and get dirty to do the other 2.. Good Luck

 

Same question but with '05 Town and Country 3.8L The back #1, #3, and #5 look like they will be a bear without removing several items AND being a good contortionist. Started to get a little bit of engine knock and wonder (like many parts installed) if the factory plugs are junk. Anyway, thought I would give it a go and see if that makes a difference before going further.


Any specific suggestions on getting to those dudes on this particular engine?


Thanks!

 

The 3.8 is the same as the 3.3 externally, and the stuff in the way should be about the same on the T&C, Voyager and the Caravan. I have done it on a 99 Caravan about 2 summers ago and am about to do it again with NKG Platinums (original and replacement were copper Champions). I did all 3 from the rear bottom with the van up on ramps and a big piece of cardboard, to allow me to slide easily. #1 is the killer and I had to use a swivel and I think a wobble extension. It might be that the wobble goes in the sparky socket and the swivel goes on top but I could be remembering wrong.There was some Rube Goldberg extension thing involved getting #1 off/on. I also had a short piece of hose to fit the spark plugs ceramic top so I could start threading the sparky. Another tip is to use spark plug wire pliers. It's very easy to break the wire internally when trying to remove them by hand especially when the wires are brittle from heat/age. There is also a bit of contortion-ism, but that always goes with "modern" cars.
Without hearing the knock I couldn't say what that problem is. I do think replacing the sparkys is a good idea unless the factory originals are platinums. If they are plats then they should be good to 100K and I would look at something else as the cause. If you are hearing that empty rattle-can rattle sound it could be your gas octane is too low. Step up a grade or try a different gas supplier to see if that solves the problem. I wouldn't call Champions junk but they aren't my favorite plug. Outside of scooter plugs, I have no experience with NKG's. I hear/read good things about them and that's why I'm trying them on this van. I don't want to do this job again and that's why I'm using the platinums. Any mfg-rs copper plug should last about 10K and then be replaced. They do last longer with electronic ignition. I just by habit want to change them every 3 Dino oil changes. A copper plug is worn when the center electrode has rounded or exhibits any of the fouling that also occurs. I also think that you should run what the mfgr used stock. I get bit using different plugs from recommended plugs.

 

Yes, that's exactly what was happening. I just did a front pad change, at 25k mind you (not before the junk pads they installed permanent discolored my 'chrome' wheels....thanks for those top shelf parts, Chrysler) and was bedding in the new pads. That was the first time the engine had been loaded up in a while. That's when I noticed light knocking (hollow rattling as you described). Yes, I concur that changing octane would take care of that...but that's not the right action to take in my opinion. I have always looked to ignition first, deposits second, etc.

Especially with the price of gas as it is now!

 

Where do you find specialized spark plug tools? NAPA and Sears were no help.