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4X4 on Clear Road?

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  #11  
Old 01-06-2012, 05:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Nate769
Now back the to thread. This is why I like 4wd auto, and why I say to everyone who lives in a snowy country this can be your best friend. When I am on the highway were there is a ice patches but not enough for 4wd I put it in auto. This mode is going to cause much less wear then 4 lock, and not to mention if your doing 80km/h you can pop it in 4 lock without a hassle. Reason is because everything is engaged, but its only like an 80:20 power ratio vs 50:50. This way the front tires are not going to see to much wear.
I think I did? :P
 
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Old 01-07-2012, 01:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Ironhead
And what does this have to so with the original question of using 4x4 on a dry road?

Just a mind test here IRONHEAD, lets just hypothetically say, if you were to go down one size on the front tire size compared against a taller rear tire size on a 4x4, the rearend will try to push (or try to overun while in 4wd) the front end because of the rear tire ratio effect would be doing more work ratio wise. (and not to mention, it would bind up badly...and THAT`S my point) If you up the height of the front tires, (by adding more air to the front tires, it will make the front tires stand a little bit taller instead of flatter or as even as the rear tire height) it will act more like a front wheel drive system, it will help pull the truck instead of pushing it down the road because the front tire height will be a fraction taller in circumfrence than the rear. So ther for, less force on the drivetrain componets. Any real 4x4 guy would know this is fact. It works, trust me. You will notice a difference when you have just the right amount of air pressure difference between the front and rear tires. The 4x4 will drive a heck of alot easier. So, if you`re on dry pavement for short distances, you be less likely to tear anything up as easy.
 

Last edited by LU229; 01-07-2012 at 01:37 AM.
  #13  
Old 01-07-2012, 08:40 AM
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Originally Posted by LU229

Just a mind test here IRONHEAD, lets just hypothetically say, if you were to go down one size on the front tire size compared against a taller rear tire size on a 4x4, the rearend will try to push (or try to overun while in 4wd) the front end because of the rear tire ratio effect would be doing more work ratio wise. (and not to mention, it would bind up badly...and THAT`S my point) If you up the height of the front tires, (by adding more air to the front tires, it will make the front tires stand a little bit taller instead of flatter or as even as the rear tire height) it will act more like a front wheel drive system, it will help pull the truck instead of pushing it down the road because the front tire height will be a fraction taller in circumfrence than the rear. So ther for, less force on the drivetrain componets. Any real 4x4 guy would know this is fact. It works, trust me. You will notice a difference when you have just the right amount of air pressure difference between the front and rear tires. The 4x4 will drive a heck of alot easier. So, if you`re on dry pavement for short distances, you be less likely to tear anything up as easy.
No you will still get bind, just in the opposite direction (that is you will put a net counterclockwise load on the transfer case instead of a net clockwise load). The only reason that running higher pressure in the front might help is that because due to the front weight bias of a pickup the front tires are squashed and have a lower effective radius.
 
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Old 01-07-2012, 09:11 AM
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Originally Posted by LU229
Any real 4x4 guy would know this is fact.
I build and offroad real 4x4's and that is the strangest suggestion I've heard in a log time.

My .02 - part time systems should never - ever be engauged on dry pavement. It puts extra strain on the tires, driveshafts, ujoints and transfercase chain or gears. Good way to tear stuff up.
 
  #15  
Old 01-07-2012, 10:55 AM
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Originally Posted by frogslinger
The only reason that running higher pressure in the front might help is that because due to the front weight bias of a pickup the front tires are squashed and have a lower effective radius.
Pretty much what i said in my earlier thread
 
  #16  
Old 01-07-2012, 11:08 AM
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Originally Posted by oldjeep
I build and offroad real 4x4's and that is the strangest suggestion I've heard in a log time.

My .02 - part time systems should never - ever be engauged on dry pavement. It puts extra strain on the tires, driveshafts, ujoints and transfercase chain or gears. Good way to tear stuff up.
I have owned 4x4`s all my life, i`ve never torn one up as of yet in over 40yrs running them on dry pavement. I`ve always ran the tire pressure higher in the front, never tore one up following the "old timer`s" suggestion from 40yrs ago. If someone posts or adds a thread to a post, i think some of you guys take it a little to the extreme by thinking about it to hard. If people are tearing their truck up that easy, then i would say its from neglect and abuse, or worse yet, just not informed how to balance out a 4x4 vehicle with air pressure`s within the front and back tires. To each their own, you do it your way, i`ll do it mine. I was only throwing out an idea for people to try. If i`m wrong for how i set my 4x4 up to use it, then how did i ever go 40yrs and not tear ANY of them up.
 
  #17  
Old 01-07-2012, 05:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Hypnos
I have a question, the we have been talking about at my work. Some beleve one way some the other. I have a 2009 RAM 1500 4X4 I only drive from 5k-10k a day. I'm in New Brunswick. Where it is cold and ice on the ground I turn on the 4X4 (and drive carefully) but my work friends are saying that this runes the 4x4 because there is not snow on the ground. I can imagine this might have been a problem in the past but I can't imagine that this was not resolved in to days trucks... Like I use to hear some thing about how the front wheels spin faster then the back or something...

Quest is is that true? I'm a believer of safety first. and even if it is true I'll still be using my 4x4 on light snow and ice but I would like to know just that same.


Thanks!

For those of us without 4x4 AUTO and just Hi/Low, I use the 4x4 Hi in any situation when I think the tires will slip in deep snow, on ice, on the highway when taking a shoulder or not plowed and have never had an issue. I know what the manual says and think it's correct. When driving on plowed, salted roads, there's no need for 4x4 and it kills your fuel mileage anyway. I also run a few pounds more in the front tires of both my trucks and have nice even tire wear. My advice would be use it when you think you should but remember, it doesn't help you stop, only good tires will.
 
  #18  
Old 01-08-2012, 12:00 PM
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Let the bickering Begin! I don't like arguing with people but I notice that it's the guys that rarely use their 4 wheel drive seem to know the most about it.
I've grown up on icy Canadian roads and brutal winters, I've logged litterally 1000s of Kms on dry pavement in 4x4lock. I have many friends/family that basically use 4x4 from November to march regardless of road conditions. My wife drives the 2010 ram and she uses 4lock on almost all road conditions during the winter months, that truck has 58000kms and works like new.
My 2004 has 210,000 Kms and 8 winters use of full time 4x4 use at high speeds.
At work we use fords and chevs and all employees are told to use 4 wheel drive during the winter if there is any chance at all of snow ice or slush.
Now with my first hand experience of running vehicles this way I've never heard of any part failure related to the 4wheel drive system.
Does extra use contibute additional wear? Absolutely, however several of the work trucks are well over 300,000kms without failure so it must minimal wear taking place.
To the OP this is the way I was taught and it's yet to cause me any problems. But it has kept me from losing control or sliding off the road when I wasnt expecting it.
Best of luck to you whatever you do.
 
  #19  
Old 01-08-2012, 02:03 PM
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Originally Posted by LU229

...by adding more air to the front tires, it will make the front tires stand a little bit taller instead of flatter or as even as the rear tire height...
Case in point, my 2500 has recommended inflation of 60psi front / 45psi rear unloaded and 60psi front / 70psi rear with max load.
 
  #20  
Old 01-08-2012, 05:52 PM
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Originally Posted by dixiejwo
Case in point, my 2500 has recommended inflation of 60psi front / 45psi rear unloaded and 60psi front / 70psi rear with max load.
THANK YOU...!

And by doing so,
it keeps the overall ratio`s between the front and the rear ALOT more even so as not to wear or bind as agressively.
 

Last edited by LU229; 01-08-2012 at 05:59 PM.


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