Hey everyone, as the title explains, my truck has been freaking out. It used to do it about once a year. Took it to the dealership while it was still in warranty and they hooked it up to their computer and saw nothing wrong. SO skip ahead 2 years and now im stuck with a truck that is freaking out about every 300 miles. I took a video of it and cant explain what is going on, the lights that are going off are the ESP/BAS, Low Tire Pressure, Traction Control, then at 1:01, check engine, which pulls up generic stability control system problem. I dont know if it is a speed sensor freaking out or what. All I know is that My wife is pissed because I have spent over $5,000 in out of warranty repairs to this truck within the past 2 years and my wife is about to kill me. Any advice would help. Thanks. Ohh and TIPM has already been replaced. Problem has been before and after I replaced that.

 

The only thing I can offer is this self test to try to isolate the problem. Maybe loose connectors to the cluster?

SELF TEST

The instrument cluster self test will put the instrument cluster into its self-diagnostic mode. In this mode the instrument cluster can perform a self-diagnostic test that will confirm that the instrument cluster circuitry, the gauges, and the indicators are capable of operating as designed. During the self test the instrument cluster circuitry will position each of the gauge needles at various calibration points, illuminate all of the segments or portions in the Liquid Crystal Display (LCD) unit, and turn all of the indicators ON and OFF again.
Successful completion of the self test will confirm that the instrument cluster is operational. However, there may still be a problem with the CAN data bus, the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), the Totally Integrated Power Module (TIPM), the Transmission Control Module (TCM), the Occupant Restraint Controller (ORC), the Controller Anti-lock Brake (CAB), the Wireless Ignition Node (WIN) or the hardwired inputs to one of these electronic control modules. Use a diagnostic scan tool to diagnose these components. Refer to the appropriate diagnostic information.
1.Begin the test with the ignition switch in the OFF position.

2.Depress the odometer/trip odometer switch button.

3.While still holding the odometer/trip odometer switch button depressed, turn the ignition switch to the ON position, but do not start the engine.

4.Release the odometer/trip odometer switch button.

5.The instrument cluster will simultaneously begin to illuminate all of the operational segments in the LCD unit and perform a bulb check of each operational Light Emitting Diode (LED) indicator. The LCD segments and LED indicators remain illuminated as each gauge needle is swept to several calibration points and back. If a VFD segment or an LED indicator fails to illuminate, or if a gauge needle fails to sweep through the calibration points and back during this test, the instrument cluster must be replaced.

6.The self test is now completed. The instrument cluster will automatically exit the self-diagnostic mode and return to normal operation at the completion of the test. The self test will be aborted if the ignition switch is turned to the OFF position, or if a vehicle speed message indicating that the vehicle is moving is received from the PCM over the CAN data bus during the test.

7.Go back to Step #1to repeat the test, if necessary.

 

So I did the cluster test, and it passed. Looks like I'm going to have to shell out more money to the stealership unless someone else has any ideas

 

Maybe wait until it starts freaking out and then do the cluster test. If the cluster is not f-ing up, the dealer will probably just charge you more money and CND it. If it was mine, I would start by having someone monitor the display and start wiggling every wire harness you can get your hands on. There are 4 connectors on the firewall on the passenger side engine bay, start there. Maybe even unplug them and look at the pins and sockets. The TIPM connectors are also known to get loose. Pop the fuse cover and make sure they are all pushed down.

 

Couldnt really check the cluster becuase it happens usually while im driving down the road. But checking all the connectors will be my next step.

 

If it only happens while driving, then it kind of points to something getting bounced around and creating the issue. Juggling/wiggling cable harnesses around may duplicate the driving conditions - you just never know.

I'm a retired electrical engineer and I can't tell you how many times I've found intermittent problems by grabbing cable harnesses and shaking them.

 

In case anyone was interested, Come to find out that a Faulty HID Flicker eliminator was the culprit. I am done screwing around with HID so I just put Sylvania Silverstar ZXE Bulbs in it, its been about 1000 miles since and haven't seen a single light come on.

 

Thanks for the info.
Glad you were able to solve the issue.

 

Thanks for the posting, it may help someone down the road.

now - I wish you had posted more info about the electrical mods (HIDS). You may have gotten an answer earlier....

 

After thinking about it, I should have. sorry about that guys.