Adding a Mopar remote control lock to Smoothbassmans excellent post.
Got tired of waiting on autoanything and they flat out lied to me.
So.
You need the parts smoothbassman list if you want the lock. I wanted the failsafe of a key so I got the locking handle and the remote solenoid.
Dodge dealer took 2 days to get ALL the parts needed.
Here is what you need to add the Mopar remote.
Locking Rear Tailgate and Keyless Lock Actuator. $245.92 for the locking handle and the remote solonoid assembly. Parts guy said he gave me a discount. I am a regular.
You can buy the locking tailgate as explained by smoothbassman.
You can buy just the remote solonoid assembly to add to your handle, HAS TO BE A LOCKING HANDLE Assembly. Solonoid attaches to that long arm in the pictures. Not on the stock assembly.
Or you can buy both the locking handle and the remote at a discount.
Included
(2) 5/32" rivets, lots of tie wraps, short wiring harness, long wiring harness.
Actuator mounting braket, small bracket, solonoid, 4 screws, 2 wire crimps, 2 pieces of heat shrink tube
Tools.
It comes with 2 rivets so you need a small.. rivet tool.
Wire strippers
Crimpers
Phillips head driver.
#20 Torx bit
Drill and 5/32" bit.
and all the parts and tools described by Smoothbassman.
I bookmarked this post for this day. Thanks for this post.
The instructions in the kit are good for the meachnical part.
I will not explain that. Will tell you its fairly easy but much harder than just the lock.
Main Bracket mounts to the 2 bolts holding the lock in and one of the bolts/nuts holding the handle to the assembly. Have to hold the 3 parts in place and screw things together.
I propped up the solonoid so it would be level and not fighting me....see the pictures.
Wiring
Follow the rear lights loom.
The mopar solonoid unit wiring connects out in the engine bay using the main fuse panel. "TIPM"
Instructions tell you to locate and disconnect terminal C-5. Mine was marked "C". Easy to do!
Its the only brown terminal and it tells you its brown.
Tells you to splice into circuit P34 and P38. Gives you a diagram showing where these parts are on the terminal. DO NOT DO THIS...the instructions are wrong. Both in the fuse block and from the remote solonoid...wrong colors...wrong terminals.
Took me a while, here you go.
Red from solonoid - Tan with green stripe
Black from solonoid - Tan with white stripe.
Both in Brown terminal "C"....my truck anyhow. Production 11/08.
I should have taken pictures while I had the fuse block underneath exposed. Sarted getting dark. Sorry.
Open it, Remove the nut holding the red cable. Remove the cable from the threaded post.
Take out the (3) #20 torx screws, use a flat head screwdriver to release it from the battery mount assembly. Pull up. There is plenty of slack.
Wiring harness with/from the solonoid is one red and one black.
Some pics...yeeha, Altair showed me my error.... Now I can do an signature with my truck and you can admire it every time I post.
First picture shows orentation or that main bracket and how the solonoid is attched.
That second picture shows the two rivets that attach a little traingle shaped bracket. Can't really see the bracket but its there. The Solonoid attaches to that bracket you riveted in place after drilling the two 5/32" holes.
That wire loom is two part. One just longer than the gate so there is a connection by the spare tire...Up to you to make this easy or hard to get at for gate removal. Comes with nice clips made on the loom to secure the wire to the gate. Comes with lots of Zip Ties for the run to the engine bay.
The hardest part was those two little screws that hold the solonoid mount. Hard to get a tool on.
Figuring out the wires but I have a tool for that. that was just annoying.
Wired it backwards first...50/50 chance..of course it was going to be backwards.
Lock the door, unlock the gate. Unlock the door, lock the gate. Switch the wires as I mention above. If yours is different and does the backwards thing with those colors.
Switch them.
and the parts guy gave me a cylinder too. Locking handle comes with cylinder, tell you parts guy that. Set it with the key as explained.
I say again this remote solonoid will not work on the stock non locking handle. Must have the locking handle. In my head that was a must anyhow. Lock it with a key or the remote..unlock if dead or broken solonoid being the bigger deal.
As always, when dealing with electrics in an automobile. Disconnect the negative battery cable first.
My take.
If you like working on your cars; as I do; its easy and satisfying. The handiness of this is great and its just cool. Hit the fob "lock" and EVERYTHING locks.
If you are not machnically inclinded let the dealer do it and get the warranty...pay labor.
The LK170 is the cheaper route and I suppose it works on a regular handle. I am glad I spent the extra money and went all Mopar...and its done, and done right...not waiting on anythingauto.
Cheers Blue
Thanks again for this post Smoothbassman. Hope you do not mind me adding a remote to it.