[R0oster31]

Now that you have the one end apart you can remove the 4 bolts holding the hanger bearing and slide the entire driveshaft out as one piece. If the driveshaft separates at the hanger bearing you will have to get it back together in the same position, so you might want to mark that just in case.

For the front driveshaft I just removed the 4 bolts on the transfer case end and wired it up so I only had to put one end back together.

The suspension cross member and skid plate can be removed now, do not remove the support cross member until you have the engine supported either with a jack or a cherry picker. (Looking from rear, skid plate already removed, the cross member you want to remove is the narrow one towards the rear.)

Drain the transfer case and transmission.
Now that you have all the other stuff cleared out of the way you are almost ready to begin taking the transmission out. Before you start removing it I would suggest you think about how you are going to get it out. If you have the vehicle up on jack stands already, figure out if you will be able to get the transmission out from underneath the vehicle once you get it down. You have to keep the engine supported when you have the transmission out, so if you are planning on lifting the vehicle you have to lift the engine at the same time. The transmission jack I used was fairly tall and I didn’t want to lift the truck up really high so after I got the transmission down with the transmission jack I put it on two creepers and rolled it out. Once you have figured out how you are going to get it out from underneath the truck you are ready to begin taking the transmission out of your vehicle.
I left the transfer case attached to the transmission, but if you would rather remove it, you can do that easily at this point. Before you remove the support cross member you need to support the engine. I used the truck’s jack to support the engine under the oil pan. I used some blocks to build some cribbing under the jack and put a board between the jack and the oil pan. I did this so the jack is no where near its full height, but still has some room to go down if needed. I used the truck’s jack because since it is a screw jack it is easier to control than a hydraulic jack. Remove the two nuts that hold the transmission to the support cross member.

I then raised the jack under the oil pan until I felt the bolts move up a little bit. I did this to make sure that there was no pressure on the support member. You will have to raise the jack under the oil pan quite a bit because the suspension will unload some as you take the weight of the engine and transmission off of it. Once you have the weight off of the support cross member you can remove it. There are 4 bolts on each side, the nuts (15mm) are bigger than the heads (13mm) and can be accessed through holes in the frame rails. You will have to hold the heads to keep them from turning. To get the cross member out I used a port-a-power to spread the frame rails, which made removing the cross member relatively easy. Now that you have the support cross member out you will have to support the transmission as well as the engine at all times. If you leave the transfer case on, the balance point is very close to the two bolts that went through the support cross member. I had the back of the jack there and the front was about 4 inches back of where the transmission meets the bell housing. To make it sit on the jack nicely I drilled two holes in a piece of 2X6 and slide that over the two bolts that used to hold the transmission to the support cross member. Once you have the transmission jack under there you can take some of the pressure off of the jack under the oil pan. I recommend just jacking that down rather than the transmission up. I say this because the point that you have to clear in order to separate the transmission from the engine is where the shift tower bolted on. If you look the place where it bolted to the transmission sits relatively high and will catch the floor if you were to try and slide the transmission straight back. Once you have the transmission in a position where it is neither supporting nor being supported by the engine you can start taking the bolts out that bolt the two together. There are 8 bolts and they all start on the transmission side. The top two are by far the hardest to get to and can be most easily accessed using a very long extension with a knuckle on the socket end.