I'm gonna bring my old 88 dakota 2wd out for the winter soon and the rack is leaking bad. I can get a new one for $250, how hard is it to replace? the seals are blown on my old one and it will leak it out as fast as your putting it in.
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Toyota chaser specifications

 

Looks fairly straight forward. You have to remove the tie-rod ends though, that'd probably be the hardest part.
(Taken from the 1990 service manual)
Rack and Pinion Gear (Powered and Non-powered, 2WD)
Removal-
(1) Raise and support truck
(2) Remove front wheels
(3) Take off cotter-pins and nuts from the tie-rod ends at steering knuckles.
(4) Remove tie-rod ends using proper tool. Failure to use proper tool could damamge tie-rod and seal.
(5) Remove hoses from pump (power systems only)
(6) Disconnect steering coupler from pinion gear
(7) Remove bolts attaching gear to crossmember
(8) Remove gear

Installation-
(1) Position gear at crossmember and install attaching bolts. (For manual - non-powered - rack and pinion gears, ensure that the master serration is aligned.)
(2) Tighten gear-to-crossmember bolts to 150 ft-lbs torque.
(3) Connect steering coupler to pinion gear.
(4) Install tie-rods. Tighten nuts to 40 ft-lbs torque and install new cotter pins.
(5) Install hoses (power systems only)
(6) Inspect hoses for leaks
(7) Adjust toe-in and tighten lock-nut to 55 ft-lbs torque.

 

thanks for the list. so does that mean I will have to get an alignment after?
the new rack comes with new tie rod ends so it wont really make a difference if I break the old ones taking them out. and I'm also gonna buy new power steering lines, cause my luck as soon as I replace the rack then I'll blow a line.


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Ship Sale

 

Lol, your not the only one with that "luck" [:@]

It probably wouldn't be a bad idea to get an alignment afterwards. You can adjust your toe-in yourself with not much more than ratchet and socket and measuring tape. (The distance of the front of the tires vs. the distance of the rear of the tires, should be 1/8 inch closer on the front)

But, if you drive the older Dakota often enough, it would probably be a good idea to get it all done (toe-in, camber, caster).

 

ok thanks, Im doin it all this weekend so I'll let you know how it goes.
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EUROPEAN RECIPES

 

ok, so I got it all done and it's one the road now. the rack was easy to take out once I finnally got it disconnected from the steering coupler.[:@] after that it mostly went good. I had to buy new tierods cause the old ones were just about shot. and since it was out I did them.

after I got everything hooked up and put the new lines on and filled it up with power steering fluid. I started her up and then the pump was leaking.[:@] so I took a pump off one of my other vehicles and then I had to switch the pullies on it cause the dakota needed the pully with the holes in it. so after I switched the pullies and installed the other pump I started it up an no more leaks. then I did a half fast alignment, then took it for a road test. it doesnt pull at all, so I dont think I will need an alignment.

heres some pics of her I took a while ago. she's gottin a lil rough from just sittin around.



[IMG]local://upfiles/20888/9078347B14BB4CF086B4B9AD8B4D91DE.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]local://upfiles/20888/6B8ECAAE2495492195F5256C2D37C888.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]local://upfiles/20888/0006C9A1D8B94990B887A0A725C2B5C0.jpg[/IMG]
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Problems From Nexium

 

Good to hear its done. And hopefully without any damage from thrown tools

 

how exactly did you get the rack disconnected from the coupler? i have a 92 2wd... there's a spring pin that holds the coupler to the rack and pinion and for the life me i can't get that sucker out. i've tried wd40, pb blaster, vice grips, punches, etc... no luck... any tips at this point would be greatly, greatly apprectiated... my saws-all is starting to look mighty tempting........