Does anyone know how long a belt is that bypasses the a/c and the p/s pullies? If not Ill get a string, but just askin to save some time.

 

some archived belt stuff that might be of help:
===
> Found the right bypass belt. Its part no. 872K6 made by Kelly
> Springfield, $15 at Autozone. This will also cross to Napa I'm
> told but they will be a little more expensive. This belt will fit any
> 5.2/5.9 WITH THE ASP CRANKPULLEY, sorry don't know about
> the V6. Having an electric fan helps speed up the change over, but
> shouldn't take to much longer with the stock fan. After 2 weeks it
> looks like .1-.2 extra MPG. Of course it may be just the way I drive. ;o)
>
> GS -
>
> '98 5.2L 5spd
> 3.92SG, MPI,
-------------

Autozone,
part numbers, and prices for 1993 Dakota V6:

-Kelly-Springfield Serpentine Belt; PN#884K7; $22.99
-Upper Radiator Hose; PN#974; $6.99
-Lower Radiator Hose; PN#919; $7.99
-Water Bypass Hose; PN#4374; $2.99
-Robert Shaw Generation II Thermostat; PN#GT755-195; $8.99
-Felpro Water Outlet Gasket; PN#35064; $.89
-----------------
Daniel D (barracuda19@hotmail.com)

Are you sure you got the right belt?
The part number for the belt with A/C
is 975K7.
If ya don't have AC then it's 884K7.
I am thinking of bypassing my A/C when i run at the track.
Someone told me that the 884k7 doesn't work if your
bypassing the A/C. I work at Auto Zone.


==========
Gates Part No. K070976 Serpentine Belt
{With AC}
$24.81
----------------------

I replaced my factory Ram serpentine belt with a $28 Goodyear
'Gatorback'4070975 Poly-V Belt (97.5 inches long).
I like this belt and think it runs quieter. The Gatorback design has notches
cut in the serpentine belt ribs.

But this was a 2nd attempt. I first tried a Dayco 'Dynaflex Heavy Duty
Automotive V-Ribbed PN 973K7' serpentine belt. This Dayco belt would not go on
despite all attempts at muscling it into place. It was about 2 inches too
short - despite the '97' in the part number.
=============

With 50k on the stock serpentine belt, thought it was time to change it so I
did some research and found out the slight squealing I get each morning is
from the ribs on the belt as they make tight bends around a couple of pullies.
The notched belts will take care of the noise but this Goodyear belt is
supposed to be one of the best. Part number 4070970 for the 5.2L by the way,
$26 from Auto Zone.


Gatorback swallows up irritating chirps, squeaks and squeals due to its
Helicog(TM) tooth design. Unlike the straight cogs on standard v-ribbed belts,
the diagonal Helicog(TM) teeth on Gatorback actually cancel the noise of
pulley contact from one offset cog to another. The result is a reduction in
operating noise by as much as 15 decibels.

Gator-Strong Construction

No belt is built to last like Gatorback. The backing of the belt is composed
of a tough coated fabric that provides twice the abrasion resistance of
standard belts. It's oil and heat resistant, too.

Scroll down to the diagram below, and you'll see that Gatorback's hide-tough
construction stands up to the harshest engine environments.

Gator-Tough Durability

The belt's Helicog(TM) tooth design gives Gatorback added flexibility, which
translates into a cooler running belt. And a cooler belt lasts longer --
nearly three times longer than competitive cogged v-ribbed belts. With that
kind of durability, Gatorback eats up the competition.

RUGGED FEATURES

1. Strong, Stretch-Resistant Tension Member.

Specially treated to maintain tension and resist stretch on both locked center
drives and spring tension systems.

2. Tough Synthetic Rubber Ribs.

Fiber-reinforced Wingprenereg. rubber helical cogged ribs offer maximum cord
support and wear resistance for unsurpassed performance in high horsepower
applications.

3. Oil And Abrasion- Resistant Backing.

The backing on every Goodyear Gatorback Poly-V belt is a tough coated fabric
material. It's impregnated with Wingprenereg. rubber for heat and oil
resistance to provide the high coefficient of friction needed to drive flat
pulleys.

 

Great information! Gates is supposed to be the best belts, but I recently did some underhood inspection and found chunks missing from the rear rib of mine. I took it back to O'Reilly Auto Parts and had it warrantied out (November would have been one year). I installed the replacement belt in the parking lot, started the truck, and son-of-a-gun if the new belt didn't start fraying right away. No joke, the cord on the back edge of the belt broke and started coming out! I remove the belt and inspected the pullys to insure there were no dirt or other obstructions and all was clean. I returned to a stunned clerk with the belt. He warrantied *THAT* belt and gave me the last one in the store. This one has lasted 1,700 miles with no issues (so far).

 

thanks, but thats not what im looking for. Ill just run a string and mesure out the proper length belt.

 

55" belt, to eliminate the P/S and A/C, incase any of you drag racers are interested. I figgured If I dont have underdrive pullies, I may as well eliminate the two I dont need while going straight . If your trying to figgure out how it routes, just stare at it, it will come to you.

 

becarefull, droppin pullies and not paying attention to rotations ... you may rotate a pully the wrong direction and could be a bad day.. IE: water pump

 

yea, its all the right way