Fuel Pump Replacement by steve00ram360
#1
02-23-2006, 07:20 PM
Fuel Pump Replacement by steve00ram360
Thanks to steve00ram360 for this article!!
Please Read DodgeForum.com's Disclaimer
This was performed on a 2000 ram 1500 4x4. others should be similar. This took me about 1.5 hours to swap out.
Do at your own risk!!! Since your dealing with fuel, you must be extremely careful when doing this DIY repair… again Do at your own risk!
Drain the tank as low as you can get it (I just drove mine down close to empty… there was about 2 gallons left in the tank and it was manageable).
Remove the fuel pump relay, it’s located next to the battery in the fuse box and is located real close to the battery inside the panel. It pulls straight up and out.
Start the motor and let it die. This will drop the fuel pressure so you can remove fuel lines w/o having fuel spray all over the place
Disconnect the ground cable from the battery.
Find the fuel tank strap bolts and spray the threads with liquid wrench or something similar to loosen up some of the gunk on the studs for easier nut removal.
Disconnect the fuel filler tube from the bed. There are 4 phillips head screws holding it in. this will drop down when you drop the tank.
Place a jack with a good piece of wood under the tank to support it while working on it.
Remove tank strap bolts next
pull the straps down so that you will have enough room so you can work on the tank You can also remove them at this time if you like. The tank weighs about 10~15 lbs with about 1~2 gallons of fuel in it. It’s pretty light.
Remove the 2 hoses connected to the filler tube that go to the bed of the truck.
disconnect the evap line from the top of the tank. This is done by pinching the connector and pulling up. If you look closely at the line in the picture you can see the type of connector that your working with.
Remove the electrical connector. It has a red lock tab that has to be pushed towards the rear of the truck. Then it pops off pretty easily.
Remove the fuel line off of the fuel pressure regulator, you’ll need to squeeze the lock tabs closed to get the line off.
Once all of the connections are off the tank, the tank can be dropped all the way and removed from under the truck.
Disconnect the vacuum line going to the rear of the tank
Next you’ll need to remove the cap that holds the pump on, I used a screwdriver and a rubber mallet to break it loose so I could turn it by hand. These threads are normal threads. My “assistant” is tightening the cap in the photo. Note: this is just like taking off a lid on a jar… threads go the same way.
Once the cap is off, the pump can be pulled from the tank. Be prepared for some gas spillage… have some rags handy. The pump will have about ¾ of a gallon in it that you’ll have to dump somewhere… I just dumped it back into the tank.
Now you can install the new pump. You’ll need to put in a new seal that comes with the new pump. It only goes one way so make sure the lip is towards the top of the pump. Replace the cap that secures the pump to the tank, you can use the screwdriver and mallet to tighten the cap back on to the tank.
Once the new pump is installed, your ready to re-install the tank.
Installation is in the reverse order of disassembly… pretty straight forward actually.
Move the tank back under the truck, lift the tank up with a jack and re-connect the electrical, fuel line and vacuum lines. You’ll need to make sure the filler & vent hoses are free from the frame and will go back over the frame to connect to the filler tube ok.
Re-install the hoses to the filler tube
Re-install the tank straps
Re-install the screws holding the filler tube to the bed.
Re-install the fuel pump relay
Re-connect the battery.
Re-fill the tank with at least 2~3 gallons of fuel so it will prime itself and not suck air.
Turn the key on-off a couple of times to allow the fuel pressure to build back up.
Next, fire it up. If it doesn’t start right away or wants to die, cycle the key a couple of times to continue priming the fuel system.
Take it for a spin and put some good gas in it… feed your “assistant” any chips he wants… and enjoy the $100~150 bux you just saved by doing it yourself.
Ram2ndGen
Please Read DodgeForum.com's Disclaimer
This was performed on a 2000 ram 1500 4x4. others should be similar. This took me about 1.5 hours to swap out.
Do at your own risk!!! Since your dealing with fuel, you must be extremely careful when doing this DIY repair… again Do at your own risk!
Drain the tank as low as you can get it (I just drove mine down close to empty… there was about 2 gallons left in the tank and it was manageable).
Remove the fuel pump relay, it’s located next to the battery in the fuse box and is located real close to the battery inside the panel. It pulls straight up and out.
Start the motor and let it die. This will drop the fuel pressure so you can remove fuel lines w/o having fuel spray all over the place
Disconnect the ground cable from the battery.
Find the fuel tank strap bolts and spray the threads with liquid wrench or something similar to loosen up some of the gunk on the studs for easier nut removal.
Disconnect the fuel filler tube from the bed. There are 4 phillips head screws holding it in. this will drop down when you drop the tank.
Place a jack with a good piece of wood under the tank to support it while working on it.
Remove tank strap bolts next
pull the straps down so that you will have enough room so you can work on the tank You can also remove them at this time if you like. The tank weighs about 10~15 lbs with about 1~2 gallons of fuel in it. It’s pretty light.
Remove the 2 hoses connected to the filler tube that go to the bed of the truck.
disconnect the evap line from the top of the tank. This is done by pinching the connector and pulling up. If you look closely at the line in the picture you can see the type of connector that your working with.
Remove the electrical connector. It has a red lock tab that has to be pushed towards the rear of the truck. Then it pops off pretty easily.
Remove the fuel line off of the fuel pressure regulator, you’ll need to squeeze the lock tabs closed to get the line off.
Once all of the connections are off the tank, the tank can be dropped all the way and removed from under the truck.
Disconnect the vacuum line going to the rear of the tank
Next you’ll need to remove the cap that holds the pump on, I used a screwdriver and a rubber mallet to break it loose so I could turn it by hand. These threads are normal threads. My “assistant” is tightening the cap in the photo. Note: this is just like taking off a lid on a jar… threads go the same way.
Once the cap is off, the pump can be pulled from the tank. Be prepared for some gas spillage… have some rags handy. The pump will have about ¾ of a gallon in it that you’ll have to dump somewhere… I just dumped it back into the tank.
Now you can install the new pump. You’ll need to put in a new seal that comes with the new pump. It only goes one way so make sure the lip is towards the top of the pump. Replace the cap that secures the pump to the tank, you can use the screwdriver and mallet to tighten the cap back on to the tank.
Once the new pump is installed, your ready to re-install the tank.
Installation is in the reverse order of disassembly… pretty straight forward actually.
Move the tank back under the truck, lift the tank up with a jack and re-connect the electrical, fuel line and vacuum lines. You’ll need to make sure the filler & vent hoses are free from the frame and will go back over the frame to connect to the filler tube ok.
Re-install the hoses to the filler tube
Re-install the tank straps
Re-install the screws holding the filler tube to the bed.
Re-install the fuel pump relay
Re-connect the battery.
Re-fill the tank with at least 2~3 gallons of fuel so it will prime itself and not suck air.
Turn the key on-off a couple of times to allow the fuel pressure to build back up.
Next, fire it up. If it doesn’t start right away or wants to die, cycle the key a couple of times to continue priming the fuel system.
Take it for a spin and put some good gas in it… feed your “assistant” any chips he wants… and enjoy the $100~150 bux you just saved by doing it yourself.
Ram2ndGen
