I have a 07 dodge caliber sxt- the heater started blowing warm air a year after we got it-then the next year cold. I changed both (it has 2) thermostats and it wennt back luke warm for 2 months then cold. we had a tech look at it and say the heater core was bad, 600$ to fix, i said bull-not leaking in the floor. after he drained and refilled the coolant though, it was warm for a couple days then went cold. I took it to the dealer, they kept it 5 days, said it would only reach 180 degrees, must be thermostat stuck open- i advised they are new- they eventually changed them anyway, said there was also a possible gasket problem letting air in, - called me and said it was warm, includung the engine operating temp, i went to pick it up, 320$- my wife got in it 3 hours after they called to say it worked, drove it home.........ya- no heat and it never warmed past it's usuall temp a bit over half way between cold and warm.. around 180 degrees.

Soooooo... what the @%$@#???????

the computer says the Blend doors are ok- although 1 time we did seem to have heat out of a couple vents only for about 2 days, thats why i asked them if there was a blend door issue.

 

The temp guage on the Calibers under normal circumstances
very rarely get above the 1/2 mark,I have had mine for 3-1/2 yrs
and this has been my experience.I have read posts on various
Caliber forums regarding airlocks in the water path and lack of heat
but that is usually accompanied by audible noise (gurgling sound)
and if the system has been drained should not be the culprit.
If you are getting some heat that would indicate the heater relay
in the TIPM is functioning.
Have you checked out the cable actuaution from the heater control
****?Several posts in the past have pinpointed this to be a source
as a result of poor installation into its retaining clips.
The service manual is rather vague with regards to physical problems
in this area and more oriented towards electrical troubleshooting.
Good luck!

 

Thnks, yes I and the techs are thinking some kind of airlock, since when they drain the coolant and refill it blows hot for a short time, usually after you let it cool then restart it goes cold again. Although I have asked them to check all blend doors-actuators-whatever they call it all- because I have had warmer air out of certain vents- I took it back this morning but I can tell they are as confused as I.... And this temp for engine NEVER gets close to half-it's usually at the most a bit over a 1/4.

 

Well I don't know your geographical location or temperature
mean averages but that is definitely not coming to operating
temp with regards to heater operation.
Even on cold days(20-25 F) here mine is only 2 marked spaces below
1/2 I myself would suspect the thermostats if given
this factor.
Have they bled the core return hose with the car running?
Are the thermostats the correct temp rating?

 

Mine reads about the same. 2 notched below 1/2. Either a very large air pocket or bad/too cold thermostat.

 

This explains how to check the cable adjustment for the blend door, I have seen many out of adjustment also.


INSTALLATION



NOTE: Illustration shown with instrument panel removed for clarity.
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NOTE: LHD model shown. RHD model similar. 1.Position the temperature control cable (2) to the left side of the HVAC air distribution housing (3) through the opening in the instrument panel support.2.Connect the temperature control cable to the blend door pivot lever (4).3.Engage the metal retaining clip (1) to the left side of the air distribution housing. Make sure the retaining clip is fully engaged to the housing.4.Connect the temperature door control cable to the A/C-heater control and install the instrument panel center bezel5.Visually verify that the blend door pivot lever moves from the full hot position to the full cold position and then back to the full hot position using the temperature control **** on the A/C-heater control. If OK, go to step 10. If not OK, proceed to step 6.
CAUTION: Failure to adjust the temperature control cable can result in full heating or cooling capabilities not being obtained.
6.Disengage the temperature control cable from the metal retaining clip located on the left side of the HVAC housing.7.Turn the temperature control **** on the A/C-heater control to the full hot position.8.Reach behind the instrument panel and move the blend door pivot lever forward until it stops in the full hot position and engage the temperature control cable to the metal retaining clip. Make sure the lever is in the full hot position and that the cable is fully engaged to the retaining clip.9.Verify that the blend door pivot lever moves from the full hot position to the full cold position and then back to the full hot position, as selected with the temperature control **** on the A/C-heater control. If not, repeat steps 6 thru 9.10.On RHD models, install the glove box 11.Reconnect the negative battery cable.

 

Did you ever find out your heater issue. Have 2010 and having the same problem

 

Welcome to the forum Jason.

In 2010, they went from the old and reliable cable actuator to using small servo motors to move ductwork around . It is probably either an actuator, or a broken blend door itself.

 

I purchased a dodge caliber about a year ago and I am having the same problem with the heat. it works for a little and then doesn't. Firestone has been wonderful and flushed out my heating core about 5 times and it works for a while then stops. they have checked close to everything. any suggestions?

 

Have they checked out any of the above suggestions in the thread, xomanda8?