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Dodge Caliber The new sporty Dodge Caliber is a hatchback that replaces the Dodge Neon. The Dodge Caliber is here to stay!

how to remove the Alternator

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  #1  
Old 01-12-2011, 10:09 PM
Graphite07 Graphite07 is offline
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Default how to remove the Alternator

Alternator removal its Ddoge cailber 2007. the over runing cluthc pulley is going out. does any one have a part number for the 6 groove pulley. i want to put a normal 6 groove pulley on Over Running clutch pulley.

so how hard is it to remove the Alternator.
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Old 01-14-2011, 07:28 AM
Graphite07 Graphite07 is offline
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So no one knows
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Old 01-14-2011, 06:35 PM
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I tried to post this link last night but the site died. Go here and download the service manual. It's quite helpful. I have never removed one from a Caliber yet.

http://dodgeforum.com/forum/dodge-ca...ce-manual.html
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Old 01-29-2011, 12:23 AM
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Don't know if i am too late for response, But you remove the Serpentine belt, I think you have to remove the Idler pulley.
Drop the A/C compressor by unbolting it from the Bottom, let it hang by the A/C line.
Now you should be able to reach all the Alternator bolts, and the Alternator comes out from the Bottom of the car, from where the A/C compressor is.

Yes, space are tight, it is a Bitch to wiggle it out if it is ur first time doing this job.
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Old 01-29-2011, 12:21 PM
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I have always thought that the alternator should be the one belt driven accessory to be accessible from the top. It's almost always the first item to fail!!
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Old 01-30-2011, 07:14 PM
crash30 crash30 is offline
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They stuck this alternator in the worst place ever. Yes, you have to take off the A/C compressor. Then, you also need to remove the crossmember bolts under the motor. Then, you need to removed the bolts on upper motor mount. You have to then drop the motor down through the bottom to give yourself enough space to pull the alternator out the bottom of the car. I had to do this with my brother-n-laws and I tell you, for the first time doing it, I hope to never have to do it again. Good luck.
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Old 01-31-2011, 03:52 PM
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Yikes!! Reminds me of the 90's 3.4L DOHC Lumina and MonteCarlos where you have to pull an axle and everything to change the alternator. The book calls for 8.5hrs to change it on one of those. I hope ours either goes while it is under the 7yr bumper to bumper warranty that I bought of it last forever. I don't wanna have to change it
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Old 01-31-2011, 08:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lxman1 View Post
I hope ours either goes while it is under the 7yr bumper to bumper warranty that I bought of it last forever. I don't wanna have to change it
Good job on buying that waranty, but u shoulda buy a longer one. I donno how is the road condition in ur neighborhood, but at where i work, by the time u hit 60K, ur Lower control arms are going to be shot, the Tie rod end will losen up, and probably 1 or 2 strut will start leaking, windows will roll down at the speed of a turtle because the Regulators are worn out. etc.. etc..
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Old 02-01-2011, 04:09 PM
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The miles stay low. It's almost 2.5 yrs old and barely has 15K on it. The wife only lives a few miles from work and only works 4 days a week. We got the longest time warranty with 84mo/60K miles that they offered other than lifetime. Roads are crappy around here too. I just noticed when rereading the lifetime powertrain warranty, that it even covers the water pump and CV boots.
I'm driving it to work this week since I drive 72 miles round trip a day to save gas over the 17mpg I average in the Ram. I filled up today so I can refill on Friday and check the mpg. This tank got 27mpg mostly city driving. I'm looking for 33 to 34mpg on Friday. It's only rated for 27hwy. The Ram is a couple of months older than the Caliber and it has 43K already
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Old 02-01-2011, 08:20 PM
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I am not surprised, the new Rams are freaking nice. The caliber is no comparison.

If you drive it 200K miles, you would probably spend most of ur money on brakes, tires, and misc maintainence like fluid exchange and tune ups.
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Old 02-02-2011, 04:14 PM
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Well, so far on the Ram, the tires have at lease 1/2 tread, the brakes are still very thick and As soon as it hit 36K, I tossed those things that they called shocks and installed a nice set of Bilstiens. Now it doesn't want to change lanes when you hit a bump on the highway. The stock shocks had very little gas charged rebound. I was amazed at how weak they are. Those 20's are heavy and needed good shocks to stay planted to the road. I personally think that the springs are a little too soft for a truck. If i wanted a soft ride, I would have bought as 300M or something.
I don't expect the Caliber to last forever. It was a fairly cheap car with a lifetime powertrain warranty that should give my wife many years of reliable service. One of the best things about it is that the 09 still has cable actuated ductwork instead of the newer, ready to break servo powered stuff like in my Ram and 07 Grand Caravan. My GC is really low miles, it will be 3yrs on on Valentines day and only has 10K miles on it. It is a handicapped equipped Braun Companionvan so we can take my Handicapped son anywhere he wants or needs to go. It has been trouble free except for it had a rattling speaker when new.
As far as the new Rams go, they are beautiful. I wish I would have gotten an 09 because they still had the lifetime powertrain warranty. But, I am quite happy with my 08.
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Old 02-07-2011, 08:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crash30 View Post
They stuck this alternator in the worst place ever. Yes, you have to take off the A/C compressor. Then, you also need to remove the crossmember bolts under the motor. Then, you need to removed the bolts on upper motor mount. You have to then drop the motor down through the bottom to give yourself enough space to pull the alternator out the bottom of the car. I had to do this with my brother-n-laws and I tell you, for the first time doing it, I hope to never have to do it again. Good luck.
(WRONG) the motor does not need to be dropped down. once i got the battery wire off and the little plug tilted the alternator side ways came right out. OMG the BOLT removal is a tight squeez. its out replacement going in after i eat dinner OMG not for a long while the over running clutch pulley was wobbling very bad and made a squealing nosie.
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Old 02-08-2011, 04:51 PM
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Glad you got it figured out. Thanks for the update.
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Old 02-15-2011, 11:02 AM
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Default Litens OAD

Folks,

The overruning clutch pulley on the Caliber is refered to as a Litens OAD. OAD stands for Overrunning Alternator Decoupler. It is a wearable item and will need replacing on every vehicle that it is on. The part is available in the aftermarket and can be replaced without replacing the entire alternator. For more info you can go to www.decouplerpulley.com. One thing to remember is to never replace with solid pulley. THe belt tensioner will go nuts and there will be major issues.

Javert.

ps. This Litens OAD has been on the Dodge Caravan (2001-2005) for many years. Mechanics are just now learning about the OAD and that it CAN be replaced by itself to $ave the vehicle owner money.
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Old 02-15-2011, 06:03 PM
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Why even have it? Alternators have always worked from idle to 7000rpm without them??
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Old 02-16-2011, 07:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lxman1 View Post
Why even have it? Alternators have always worked from idle to 7000rpm without them??

Over the past 10 years, engines have had to change considerably due to emmission standards. Higher cylinder pressure, direct injection, dual mass flywheels, lower engine idle, etc. These changes, that you don't always see, have created serious vibration problems that need to be addressed so that the end user still buys the car and has it feel smooth and powerful for them. You can always read more about this product at www.decouplerpulley.com.


JAvert

Bottom line is that this product was put on the engine for a reason, it should never be replaced with a solid pulley or any other type of device.
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Old 02-17-2011, 06:40 PM
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The world engine vibrates at idle even with this magic pulley

I have never seen an idler jump like the one in the video unless one of the components has a bearing seizing up.

Glad my Hemi and my 5.0 Mustang don't have one!!! Looks like my 07 3.8L GC and 09 2.0 Caliber do though.
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Last edited by lxman1; 02-17-2011 at 06:46 PM..
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Old 05-23-2012, 07:25 PM
mikester_1 mikester_1 is offline
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Default issue with install

I cant get the drive belt back on. the manuel said reinstall. does anyone know a better way to get it back on. the new alternator is on
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Old 05-24-2012, 12:08 AM
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I haven't changed mine yet, so I can't tell ya. Have you downloaded the shop manual listed earlier in the thread?
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Old 06-17-2012, 01:18 PM
Grover1984 Grover1984 is offline
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Default Replacing alternator on 2008 Caliber

Quote:
Originally Posted by crash30 View Post
They stuck this alternator in the worst place ever. Yes, you have to take off the A/C compressor. Then, you also need to remove the crossmember bolts under the motor. Then, you need to removed the bolts on upper motor mount. You have to then drop the motor down through the bottom to give yourself enough space to pull the alternator out the bottom of the car. I had to do this with my brother-n-laws and I tell you, for the first time doing it, I hope to never have to do it again. Good luck.

Yes, the alternator is in a bad place, but you do not have to remove any engine supports. Other posts tell you to remove the ac compressor, the pulley that covers the alternator bolt and then remove the alternator. it is challenging, but I did it in 6 hours. All of the plastic wheel well covering has to be removed first. Check out the other posts for better directions. Thanks to all who posted information that made this successful for me. Thanks and thanks again.
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Old 06-17-2012, 01:18 PM
 
 
 
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