Gads these doors are driving me nuts. Both doors have been difficult to open from the inside, then it got to where you'd have to give a good yank to open from the outside. All the sudden now one of them (the one I use most getting the baby in and out) will not open from the outside unless holding the inside button as well. A little bit ago, my son came in and said the door was stuck OPEN. I finally got it closed by holding in the inside button and yanking the outside handle. Both outside handles are loose now. I see it looks like a cable that goes from the handle to the latch, does the button have a seperate cable, or is it all one? Anyone else ever had this happen? Any suggestions on how to fix it? I've done all the obvious like WD40'ing the hell out of the latch. Oh yeah, 97 3.0 C'van.
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Does the catch show any abnormal wear, such that the strike alignment might be off a little. If the release is done with a cable, it might also be that with the mileage you have, the cables have stretched, but I'd look into the alignment of the catch and condition of the release spring. I have to admit though, that most of my troubles have occured with the tailgate catch alignment.
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Caravan Fan....have owned 7 and praise their virtues, but woe their transnission flaws. I use a broken differential pin as a key chain if that's any sign. 2 1988 w/2.5l, 91 GC w/3.3, 94 GC AWD w/3.3, 2 1997's w/3.3 and 99 w/3.8
I never thought to ask, but did the wd40 significantly help the situation? If it did, then my recomendation would be to use a lithium grease or Graphite lubricant on the effected parts once they are freed up and working the way you want them. WD40 is a good penetrant and short term lubricant for loosening things up, but really doesn't hang around for long. So once cleaned up and operating normally, I'd spray a longer lasting lube (probably Lithium) in there. My hood release kept seizingafter a couple of months, but since hitting it with lithium has been trouble free.
Also on the sliding doors, there is a spring which causes the door to kick out (prior to pulling it back)when the handle is operated. I know several people who have had trouble with this mechanism, so if the door rolls back good I'd look into that.
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Caravan Fan....have owned 7 and praise their virtues, but woe their transnission flaws. I use a broken differential pin as a key chain if that's any sign. 2 1988 w/2.5l, 91 GC w/3.3, 94 GC AWD w/3.3, 2 1997's w/3.3 and 99 w/3.8
Well, the service book is already on loan, and was supposed to be returned yesterday, but wasn't, so I'll have to wait until Monday. WD40 really didn't do much to help, though it did help some. Thing is, one door has been yanked so hard so often that the handle sticks out about 1/8 inch from the door now, and feels quite loose. After all my inspecting and troubleshooting, I have come to the conclucion that the cable is stretched. I had a push mower that did the same thing once, so it makes sense. Even the best cable can't last forever. My worst problem now is how to get the dang door panels off without removing the doors.
I would ditto with the lithium grease wd-40 is for breaking loose rusty parts or displacing water has some lubricating properties lithium grease would better to use in the future good luck with your doors
I had a problem somewhat like this that went on for awhile until Mrs.Chopper threatened to buy a new pick-up.
The door panels aren't that hard to remove.There are screws and clips holding them on and you don't have to remove the door to get them off.At least not on my 92 GC.
There will be a mechanism close to the rear of the door on the inside that will need lubed and that should take care of your problem.
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92 Dodge Caravan 3.3 07 TC 3.8, 04 Mustang GT three Harleys and an airplane.Buy American!!!
Cantankerous sliding doors, need help
