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If that combo flasher you speak of id the one under the dasher, 4th row up from the bottom in position #4, yes, I tried to change that out. I was lucky enough to have the dealer return it for me since electrical parts are non-returnable. I believe it's also called the Non-DRL Flasher Relay. That change out did not work. I'm just going to have to have my mechanic troubleshoot it at whatever per hour diagnosing charge there is. BUt before that, I may just take apart my sterring column to take a look at the turn signal switch to see if there is a greae build up. This post says that fixed their problem. http://forum.chryslerminivan.net/showthread.php?t=9163
Might want to take your spare tie down and check for wire problems there plus
- you can practice the process in case you have a flat tire tomorrow;
- you can check the tire air pressure, it could be surpriseingly low;
- you can rustproof the area and the back side of the rim;
- you can rustproof/lubricate the cable mechanism.
Do you have dielectric grease handy? A little dap on spark plug terminals, inside spark plug boots, light bulb connections, etc works wonders at keeping things greased and connections protected from moisture.
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If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
Last edited by TJeepman; 10-28-2009 at 02:16 PM.
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Took spare tire down. All the towing wires are good to go as far as I can see before it goes up into the chasis. I have some wiring schematics that I'll go over and try and find where the short is or bare wire.
Vehicle: 2006 Dodge Grand Caravan, 1987 Shelby CSX
Location: Oklahoma City
Posts: 10
I had a similar problem happen with a Chevy Venture. Different vehicle than yours, but electricity works the same. I'll share the information from that mess.
In that case, the board that held the bulbs on one side was bad. It caused the negative connection on the plug to melt. No negative connection, so the power would try to flow wherever it could, causing the back end to light up like a christmas tree whenever I used the left turn signal, or the brakes whenever the headlights were on.
Replaced the plug, it worked fine a couple of months until the new plug melted. Replaced the circuit board and the plug, worked fine for years.
I swapped the tail lights last night and the prpblem still exists as stated in my original post. The problem stayed the way it was. So, that tells me that my tail light(s) electronics are fine and not melted or anything. The plugs are good and making contact. So the problem with the current is before it gets to the tail lights? I have no idea what to try next. I'm just gonna have to take it to a mechanic let them figure it out at whatever cost.
There's leakage somewhere for sure. Some suggestions.
- when you apply the brakes, do any other rear lights come on back there, that shouldn't?
- check your relays, take them out and clean them up.
- any wires coroded around the battery area?
- I would be tempted to cut a wire or two from the trailer lights connection, test and then connect them back up.
- any body work been done on your vehicle recently that may have damaged some wires?
__________________
If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
Problem soved!!! I finally had to take it to my mechaninc and it turns out that the turn signal/brake light splitter for the towing harness went bad. I would have never of found that little device. Anyway, all is good now with left hand turns. Thank you to all who responded and helped me try and reslove my problem. Thanks again and good night.
Problem soved!!! I finally had to take it to my mechaninc and it turns out that the turn signal/brake light splitter for the towing harness went bad. I would have never of found that little device. Anyway, all is good now with left hand turns. Thank you to all who responded and helped me try and reslove my problem. Thanks again and good night.
Was that just a plug in connector in the jack compartment?
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If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
