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Old 08-14-2015, 02:25 PM
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how to Gravity Bleed/Flush Brakes

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  #11  
Old 02-01-2011, 05:05 PM
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This is copied from the 2006 dodge caravan service manual.........


STANDARD PROCEDURE - BASE BRAKE BLEEDING

Special Tools: Click to display a list of tools used in this procedure

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NOTE: This bleeding procedure is only for the vehicle's base brakes hydraulic system. For bleeding the antilock brakes hydraulic system,
CAUTION: Before removing the master cylinder cover, thoroughly clean the cover and master cylinder fluid reservoir to prevent dirt and other foreign matter from dropping into the master cylinder fluid reservoir.

NOTE: The following wheel sequence should be used when bleeding the brake hydraulic system. The use of this wheel sequence will ensure adequate removal of all trapped air from the brake hydraulic system.

  • Left Rear Wheel
  • Right Front Wheel
  • Right Rear Wheel
  • Left Front Wheel
 
  #12  
Old 07-29-2013, 06:08 PM
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Default reverse brake bleed with frozen bleeder screws

Have 2002 4- cyl Caravan disc/drum brakes. Replaced rear brake lines but can not bleed system because all bleeder screws are frozen. Is it possible to reverse bleed going through the master cylinder? How and what will I need?
 
  #13  
Old 04-06-2014, 09:09 PM
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i dont see how this can be possible. sounds like you may have to replace your bleeder valves after you wrestle it loose.
 
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Old 02-09-2015, 11:32 PM
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I just got a tool from summit racing for 30 bucks that checks the water content of brake fluid, mine showed 3 percent so needs replaced.. the tool has 2 prongs that you put in the brake fluid and has a string of lights that show the water content. Forgot to add can you replace the dot3 with a synthetic ?
 
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Old 01-25-2020, 09:36 PM
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Default Evacuating M/C of old fluid

Originally Posted by mcshooter
I just got a tool from summit racing for 30 bucks that checks the water content of brake fluid, mine showed 3 percent so needs replaced.. the tool has 2 prongs that you put in the brake fluid and has a string of lights that show the water content. Forgot to add can you replace the dot3 with a synthetic ?
That is a good common sense article on thorough brake fluid changeover.
I have a couple of points from experience, that may help others avoid some pitfalls that have come back to bite me over the years.
1. If you are using a dollar store Turkey baster, make sure it is glass, with a rubber or silicone squeeze bulb. Brake fluid dissolves some plastics and if that is what you are using, it would be wise to change to a fresh one on the second refill and flush - I do that, for fear of getting plastic contamination back into the M/C. Cheap plastics can get very soft.
2. Whatever you use, make sure you leave some fluid down in the base well of the master cylinder - if you suck it dry, or even get some air down there it can complicate matters considerably because a master cylinder bleed would have to be done before the system bleed.
3. There is some understandable confusion by some other readers about ABS being a complication to bleeding the system. It isn't. The ABS fluid is completely isolated and sealed from the regular braking system. The base brakes are bled exactly the same way whether or not ABS is present.
4. I know all the books and articles say bleed LR, RF, RR, LF, but I usually do the fronts first and then the rears, diagonally of course and have not found any difference in outcome.
- Just some things I have picked up with experience, that I thought could help others.
 
  #16  
Old 01-26-2020, 01:02 PM
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Default Synthetic Brake Fluid?

Originally Posted by Tizzy1
Dot 4 is synthetic, you don't want to mix the two. If it has 3, use 3.
All DOT 3 & 4 are synthetic, always have been, that is how they are made, it's just a marketing thing that they are starting to put the word "Synthetic" on the container these days.
Whether there is any problem mixing the two, I haven't found any, but I still prefer to stay with one type.
One type that shouldn't be cross - mixed with 3 or 4 is DOT 5 ( Silicone), although according to Mopar Guru Richard Ehrenberg SAE, it is not a big deal to change a system over to DOT 5, as long as you get most of the old stuff out first -- according to Richard just bleed all 4 corners until they flow purple.

Something I do to speed up the gravity bleed process is to remove the bleed nipple completely which makes for a greater flow..
Also for those working on Gen 5 brakes, the bleed nipples are 11 mm (7/16),
trying to find a box bleeder wrench for that size seems impossible. I have even contacted Lisle to see if they would consider making one, since there are millions of Grand Caravans out there - all notorious for needing more than normal brake service, and was told that they (Lisle) were not interested.
Bleed nipple torque is 88 in.lb. , 7.5 ft. lbs.

(DOT 5 Quote by Richard Ehrenberg SAE, from Mopar Action).

ACE Master Technician
 

Last edited by Mike 05; 01-26-2020 at 10:36 PM.



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