I have a 2002 Grand Caravan with power sliding doors. 2-3 years back, the drivers side power door lock quit working. It would twitch, and ocassionally work. I removed the actuator and it seems that the actuator motor will not operate the mechanism far enough for it to complete a lock/unlock cycle. I decided to just live with it. Recently I came across an actuator from a salvage yard. I installed it, but it does the exact same thing - it won't fully complete a cycle. So now I'm wondering if this is a coincidence that two actuators (albeit neither one is new) act the same way, or is there possibly a different issue, such as maybe the HAL9000 computer (joking) not supplying enough voltage, or not providing voltage long enough... I tried cleaning the contacts inside the actuator, everything looks normal enough (considering I don't have a new one to compare it with). Any thoughts or fixes? Others having the same issue? Thanks.
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Funny you should mention that... I returned the one I purchased from the salvage yard, and turns out they did have one other, still installed in a door they removed from a caravan. I removed the actuator, and they tested it (by connecting it to a battery), and it also wouldn't work. It completed one cycle, but from then on it just sorta twitched each time power was supplied, even switching polarity. I assume that is a good way to test - just connect the 2 wires to + and -.
Be nice if someone knew a fix for this. With so many failed, don't suppose there's a recall.
Actuator install success today on both sliding doors. Per my previous post, I found that the junkyard U Pull sold as is for 18 and change apiece yielded one working passenger side actuator. The driver side actuator did not work just like the originals on my van. Way to go Mopar and yes sarcasm fully intended.
Now, they were cheap from the U Pull yard but they are sold as is and no returns. I was lucky in retrospect getting one working Mopar actuator out of it. Both panels were found intact on the junked van and I pulled them off myself. Both actuators should have worked but as clearly said, it is my opinion after all of this that even new Mopar actuators are overpriced junk so it is as it is. The Dorman aftermarket ones are a way better option in my opinion and much less in cost. One year guarantee too from Advance.
I did have to drill a hole through the door metal on the passenger side of my van because the factory access hole for the screw is completely in the wrong place, meaning not even close; deplorable manufacturing. I didn't have a drill with me at the junkyard so I bashed through the passenger side sheet metal with a big screwdriver and hammer so I could get to the screw.
Installed working junkyard actuator - worked perfectly. Bought Dorman actuator for driver's side on sale at Advance for just over 50. Part # 746-259. Same part is at Rock Auto; same part number, $43.79. It has two arms user interchangeable for right or left. It is a bigger and heavier actuator than the Mopar high failure rate garbage overpriced actuator.
Installing, I had to reverse the hanging orientation of the connector because of how the Dorman is made. The connector on the actuator is reverse oriented from the Mopar; no biggie, just turn the harness connector to fit. The actuator fit fine and works perfectly. Inserting the linkage arm into the hole in the clip and seating the arm into the same clip will be clear after you pop the linkage arm from the overpriced garbage factory Mopar actuator clip
I saw posts from people in browsing saying they couldn't unlock their doors after taking off the actuator which is correct. Reaching into the latch when the actuator is out, you'll feel a horizontal pin which can be moved up and down easily with your finger. Pushing the pin up and holding it up will enable unlocking and opening the door with the upper lock button at the top front of the door; a slightly awkward two handed stretch. I had to figure this out for myself.
So when you install a new actuator, you must make sure that the back slotted arm engages this pin after you've first reinstalled the linkage arm to the clip. You then need to shine a light and look inside the latch from close perspective to the door to get a side view glimpse because you must make sure the pin passes through the actuator arm slot or it will not lock or unlock your door when installed. Do this first, then orient the actuator in. If you did this right, after screwing in the actuator and putting the connector back, it will work perfectly. If the linkage moves but the door does not lock/unlock, take the actuator off and do it again until you get it right.
I hope this helps someone facing the same as the 1A Auto whatever you tube video showing panel pull and Dorman actuator install does not explain anything about the latch pin which if you don't find and understand this pin your install will not work. The arm will not find the pin just by getting the actuator in the guide housing. You must get the pin through the slotted arm first.
Will put the panels back on tomorrow in daylight. I also had pulled a driver's side rain shield when at the junkyard as I had discovered my van lacked the driver's side rain shield after I pulled the panels. I also took the actuator torx screws and lock buttons from the junkyard van as one of my lock buttons fell off into the door during the past two years of manual lock unlock BS.