It has been cold as of late and it just rained. My 2002 Dodge Caravan SE had some troubles starting -- it was grinding like normal to start but wasnt catching. After the third attempt it started however the ENGINE CHECK light was on. The DTC codes are: P0351, P0352, P0353:
P0351 (M) Ignition Coil Primary # 1 Circuit Peak primary circuit current not achieved with maximum dwell time.
P0352 (M) Ignition Coil Primary # 2 Circuit Peak primary circuit current not achieved with maximum dwell time.
P0353 (M) Ignition Coil Primary # 3 Circuit Peak primary circuit current not achieved with maximum dwell time.
What does that mean and do i need to get something repaired?
This ad is not displayed to registered and logged-in members. Register your free account today and become a member on Dodge Forums!
I would like to diagnose the exact problem myself as well as fix it. I do have the service manuals but just need some direct pointers. I'm thinking first i should test the resistance of the ignition coils, then if ok, move up to getting the battery tested. From there I'm lost.
if you can make a cake, you can fix your car. you just need to follow the directions. a factory service manual will walk you through exact step by step directions. follow those directions exactly and you should be able to resolve the problem.
I wanted to share my experience with code P0352 in the hope it may help others. I recently worked on a friends plymouth Breeze. First this started running poorly only when hot, no code. Then it started stalling, no code. then it came to the point it only ran on two cylinders, code P0352. The pcm was replaced by her mechanic, good for a week then back to the same old. So I got it, the coil checked fine, but since I've seem this behavoir many times in the past from coils, sensors, I decided to heat it up and test while running. Sure enough when hot, the pulse would ramp to 8volts on one side, only .35v on the other(suggesting pcm fault or wiring) I did this by pushing a long staple into each outside hole on the coil connector, one side of the voltmeter to positive, negative to test the pins. Make sure you do not short these together or to ground, you could do more damage. Then shuting it off and testing the coil pack again, it failed.
Then I replaced the coil pack, unfortunately the coil fault that I suspect killed the first pcm, killed the second one, so another pcm, then no codes no problem. I found all three of the wires on the coil pack connector, came to one of the two connectors on the pcm. The black plastic covers can be easily removed on the pcm connector, then look at color code at the coil connector and find the same wire at the pcm connector and test for continunity. No need to tear apart the harnesses yet, but check the connectors very carefully, look for frayed insulation,wire or lumps in the wires which could indicate corrosion under the insulation or corrosion at either end of the connector.
If this is good, probably you are looking at coil pack or pcm. Start with the coil pack, cheaper and easier to test. I picked up a pcm and coil pack at a wrecker for $50 instead of the $1000 the shop wanted. The ASd relay can also be an issue, but not the case this time. I seen many times where a crank sensor, coil pack, pick up would behave fine when cold, but fail when hot. The wiring inside these is very fine, so a small break, may make contact when cold, but not once heated. This has been cause behind many famous works fine at the shop, doesn't work 10 mins after it leaves the shop scenario's. There is also a few rebuild places on the net $166 for pcm, $50 for a coil. Still cheaper then 2 hours shop time. I have come to understand the dodges in particular are extremely picky about the plugs and wires they have. Several people have got themselves a P0352 or other codes after changing plugs and wires. My suggestion use only plugs and wires recommended for your vehicle. It seems the non eletrode plugs seem the worst, my guess here is the change in resistances, change the pcm read dwell time, hence code P0352, just a thought. I hope I've helped some fix what seems to be a common and particularly troublesome code. Quantass mentioned cold and rain, frayed wiring in close proximity to ground or other bared wiring would get worse in wet conditions, might be something else to definately look for.
Myth, next time you have a few different brands of spark plugs for the same application, stick a meter on them and read resistance. It will clarify some things for you.
Yes -thank-you, I'm aware of checking the plugs in this manner. My suggestion was more along the lines of just avoid any hassle, get what the engine calls for. Sometimes the fancy expensive engine goodies are wallet drainers and that's about it. Similar to the gas saving devices, costs lot, does nothing,Imo.
However if I had a question it would be this; Since the primary and secondary of the coils are not truly connected and spark is produced when the magnetic field collaspes. It seems unlikely that a different plug (same app) would measurably change the feedback to the computer, enough to drop a code. I do know misfiring will produce results. But I been retired from mechanics for many years, so I no longer have access to shop scopes,etc. I did also try to write my thread for the non mechanics who only own a handfull of tools, hoping it might be helpful and saving them some time and cash.
However if I had a question it would be this; Since the primary and secondary of the coils are not truly connected and spark is produced when the magnetic field collaspes. It seems unlikely that a different plug (same app) would measurably change the feedback to the computer, enough to drop a code. Thank -you
In theory, you would think it should render a misfire code IF the resistance of the secondary circuit (wire and plug together) was low enough or high enough because it can't detect step up volts and adjust dwell time, just as it can't detect a vacuum leak unless it's out of range. If the condition is extreme enough it will calculate a lean or rich condition or detonation, etc. by using the O2 sensors, MAP sensor or anomallies in crank/cam signals in some circumstances. It depends on the type of PCM really. This is where the tech comes in to figure it out. The PCM is smart...but it's dumb too in a sense.