Just coming up on 100k miles on this 2006 GC 3.8L, and it's time to change the plugs and wires. I made the mistake of using Bosch platinums in my '97 Saturn a year ago; if only I'd checked the SaturnFans forum first! Which is why I come here to ask for seemingly simple advice on the GC.

I'm willing to pay more for good plugs, if the cost/benefit ratio is reasonable. Any recommendations?

Also, any advice on whether to change plugs ONLY when the engine is "overnight" cold? Or is slightly warm o.k.? (It'll be below freezing in the morning.)

 

Don't go for fancy plugs as you will likely regret it like so many have already.

Refer to the Vehicle Emission Control Information label in the engine compartment for the spark plugs to use. Most likely Champion RE14PLP5. Here's the Champion installation instructions including anti-seize (not required/recommended as there is a coating on them from the factory) and installation tips. http://dodgeram.info/Engine-Gas/Spar...plghnbook.html
To make things super easier and to be able to actually torque the plugs to 13 ft.lb., I remove the wiper tray (about 15 minutes). Don't forget the dielectric grease for the boots.

 

Geez. Didn't even think to look for that label! You're right, it's RE14PLP5. So, the OEM *is* a platinum plug then? Any advice on whether to trust that these are pre-gapped to the spec 0.050"? The gapper I have maxxes out at 0.040", so I'll have to get another one if I need to gap these plugs.

LOL on 15 minutes to remove the wiper tray. I've opened a separate thread, found here to ask how to get the wiper arms off the studs.

 

Sometimes wiggling them will work. Otherwise use an inexpensive two prong puller such as a battery terminal puller. Leave the nuts on loose when using puller. There are Threads available on various sites regarding the details. Here's one from this Forum with nice pictures to boot: https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2531517-post37.html

As to gap, they are pregapped (my experience) but I check them anyway in case one got dropped along the way and the gap closed up. I use air to blow out the dirt, once before I remove the plug and once (in the hole) after the plug is removed.

Other things you might want to consider while the wiper tray is removed and everything is opened up to do a good job:
- wiper motor and hoses
- pcv valve.
- valve pan cover gaskets.
- power steering hoses and pump.
- spark plug wires. I have Champion on my 2002 and they have performed great for three+ years now.
- looking at coolant lines, maybe need a mirror to help there as there is one is typically tucked in close to the back side of the engine. They can rust out and be a bear to remove.
- applying Fluid Film rustproofing especially to any steel coolant lines or rusted areas or clamps.

 

There doesn't look like there's any coating on them. I note that the web page you linked was last updated 8 years ago and, FWIW, the copyright was 1998. The Champion pages on Federal Mogul's site make no mention of this (although it's almost completely void of useful technical information anyway). Just to confirm, these are the Double Platinum Power plugs RE14PLP5. There's no mention on the packaging about anti-seize, although there are instructions for tightening (1/2 turn with gasket, 1/16 turn without gasket), and one might be inclined to believe that if anti-seize was required, they would have included that there.

Hopefully there are others using this plug who didn't use anti-seize and had no issues removing them at replacement time.

 

I never use anti-seize on spark plugs and have no problems.

Most, maybe all plugs these days have a coating or plating of some sort on them that serves a similar function to anti seize. Here's what NGK has at http://www.ngkplugpro.ca/content/con...SparkPlugs.pdf