Switching over from 5w30 to 10w30
#11
04-05-2012, 10:20 PM
5W-20 - Should you use it in your vehicle? The answer is simple:
You get about 1% better fuel economy, but you get 30% shorter engine life!
The above statement is based on real life experience and is comparison to SAE 5W-30 Motor Oil.
http://www.synlube.com/sae5w-20.htm
You get about 1% better fuel economy, but you get 30% shorter engine life!
The above statement is based on real life experience and is comparison to SAE 5W-30 Motor Oil.
http://www.synlube.com/sae5w-20.htm
The ideal oil viscosity for motor oil used in conventional piston engine operating at the "normal" engine operating temperature is equivalent to SAE 30. (In range of 9 cSt to 12 cSt @ 100° C)
If you use thinner oil (SAE 20) under these "normal" operating conditions there will be LESS resistance to motion due to reduced viscosity, and therefore BETTER Fuel Economy will result.
This gain in fuel economy does not however occur without costs.
- Increase in oil consumption due to lower viscosity. Can be offset by better seals (they cost more)
- Increase in oil consumption due to higher volatility. Can be offset by synthetics (they cost more)
- Decrease in Engine service life due to increased boundary wear under some operating conditions (this will cost more per mile driven or per engine operating hour)
If you use thicker oil (SAE 40 or SAE 50) under these "normal" operating conditions there will be MORE resistance to motion due to increased viscosity, and therefore WORSE Fuel Economy will result. This LOSS in Fuel Economy is somewhat compensated for by:
- Decrease in oil consumption due to higher viscosity.
- Decrease in oil consumption due to lower volatility
- Increase in Engine service life due to reduced boundary wear and better separation of parts in relative motion.
http://www.synlube.com/sae5w-20.htm
If you use thinner oil (SAE 20) under these "normal" operating conditions there will be LESS resistance to motion due to reduced viscosity, and therefore BETTER Fuel Economy will result.
This gain in fuel economy does not however occur without costs.
- Increase in oil consumption due to lower viscosity. Can be offset by better seals (they cost more)
- Increase in oil consumption due to higher volatility. Can be offset by synthetics (they cost more)
- Decrease in Engine service life due to increased boundary wear under some operating conditions (this will cost more per mile driven or per engine operating hour)
If you use thicker oil (SAE 40 or SAE 50) under these "normal" operating conditions there will be MORE resistance to motion due to increased viscosity, and therefore WORSE Fuel Economy will result. This LOSS in Fuel Economy is somewhat compensated for by:
- Decrease in oil consumption due to higher viscosity.
- Decrease in oil consumption due to lower volatility
- Increase in Engine service life due to reduced boundary wear and better separation of parts in relative motion.
http://www.synlube.com/sae5w-20.htm
#12
04-06-2012, 05:28 PM
In fairness though, Valvoline bit the bullet and said something back in 2008 @ http://www.jobbersworld.com/December%2011,%202008.htm
According to a letter Valvoline marketers received, the result from Valvoline's testing indicate:
Valvoline SynPower's 5W-30 wear performance is at least four times better than Mobil 1 5W-30
Mobil 1 5W-30 does not meet minimum API SM or ILSAC GF-4 specification because of its inferior performance in the Sequence IVA wear test
The letter reportedly goes on to say that Valvoline notified ExxonMobil of the failed test results in September and that the company take appropriate action regarding their claim that Mobil 1 meets ILSAC GF-4 and API SM specifications, or provide substantiation that they in fact meet these specifications.
Valvoline SynPower's 5W-30 wear performance is at least four times better than Mobil 1 5W-30
Mobil 1 5W-30 does not meet minimum API SM or ILSAC GF-4 specification because of its inferior performance in the Sequence IVA wear test
The letter reportedly goes on to say that Valvoline notified ExxonMobil of the failed test results in September and that the company take appropriate action regarding their claim that Mobil 1 meets ILSAC GF-4 and API SM specifications, or provide substantiation that they in fact meet these specifications.
Anyway, I digress. To the OP, fill your boots with 10W-30. That's what I use. 5W-30 has the same viscisity at operating temperature and should perform just as well. The 10W-30 would have less additive to accomodate the viscosity range, hence a little more base oil.
Last edited by TJeepman; 04-06-2012 at 05:34 PM.
#13
04-06-2012, 10:26 PM
Well, I did just take delivery of the 2002 GCS I test drove the other day. I do intend to run back to back oil analysis with some different oils to see what Chrysler's old six banger likes best. I'll keep everyone posted.
#14
06-21-2012, 02:43 PM
This is what SAE has to say about viscosity....
The Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) has established a numerical code system for grading motor oils according to their viscosity characteristics. SAE viscosity gradings include the following, from low to high viscosity: 0, 5, 10, 15, 20, 25, 30, 40, 50 or 60. The numbers 0, 5, 10, 15 and 25 are suffixed with the letter W, designating their "winter" (not "weight") or cold-start viscosity, at lower temperature. The number 20 comes with or without a W, depending on whether it is being used to denote a cold or hot viscosity grade. The document SAE J300 defines the viscometrics related to these grades.
Kinematic viscosity is graded by measuring the time it takes for a standard amount of oil to flow through a standard orifice, at standard temperatures. The longer it takes, the higher the viscosity and thus higher SAE code.
The Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) has established a numerical code system for grading motor oils according to their viscosity characteristics. SAE viscosity gradings include the following, from low to high viscosity: 0, 5, 10, 15, 20, 25, 30, 40, 50 or 60. The numbers 0, 5, 10, 15 and 25 are suffixed with the letter W, designating their "winter" (not "weight") or cold-start viscosity, at lower temperature. The number 20 comes with or without a W, depending on whether it is being used to denote a cold or hot viscosity grade. The document SAE J300 defines the viscometrics related to these grades.
Kinematic viscosity is graded by measuring the time it takes for a standard amount of oil to flow through a standard orifice, at standard temperatures. The longer it takes, the higher the viscosity and thus higher SAE code.
#15
10-11-2012, 02:21 AM
Some sharp guys here
A number of these replies show a high degree of knowledge about motor oils, judging from what I've learned about oils in doing quite a bit of research.
My comment is that you should be as well off with either 5W-30 or 10W-30 if you assume the 30 weight is maintained over the life of an oil change, with 5W-30 giving an advantage in quick flow at startup. I don't think you'll find much assurance from any mfr that the 30wt designation won't shear down--that's a mechanical shearing of the molecules as the oil is massaged by moving parts, such that the larger ones are destroyed over time, leaving you with a lighter oil (i.e., 30 wt becomes 20 wt or less). It's the one good reason I see for frequent oil changes.
And it's true that 90% of the synthetic oils come from class III basestocks rather than being chemically produced like Amsoil, Redline, the top Mobil 1 oil, and a few others. I used to use Amsoil, but it just got too expensive, so I now use a synthetic that may or may not come partially from Class III oils. If you're curious, I use 5W-30 Schaeffer 9000 because I like the fact it contains a healthy dose of moly.
My comment is that you should be as well off with either 5W-30 or 10W-30 if you assume the 30 weight is maintained over the life of an oil change, with 5W-30 giving an advantage in quick flow at startup. I don't think you'll find much assurance from any mfr that the 30wt designation won't shear down--that's a mechanical shearing of the molecules as the oil is massaged by moving parts, such that the larger ones are destroyed over time, leaving you with a lighter oil (i.e., 30 wt becomes 20 wt or less). It's the one good reason I see for frequent oil changes.
And it's true that 90% of the synthetic oils come from class III basestocks rather than being chemically produced like Amsoil, Redline, the top Mobil 1 oil, and a few others. I used to use Amsoil, but it just got too expensive, so I now use a synthetic that may or may not come partially from Class III oils. If you're curious, I use 5W-30 Schaeffer 9000 because I like the fact it contains a healthy dose of moly.
Last edited by 04 Quadcab; 10-11-2012 at 02:25 AM.
#16
10-11-2012, 08:21 AM
More important to change your oil regularly than nitpick weights/brands. I stick to whatever synthetics that are on sale and whether or not they are true synthetics really bears little in my decision. All I care is that I get the better grades of oil and even regular oil is well overpriced in Canada so I'm paying maybe $5-10 more for synthetic over advertised conventional.
PS: I use 10W30 in my 02 for that little extra protection (even if it is mostly in my head) since I tow alot and when I do tow it tends to be a big payload.
PS: I use 10W30 in my 02 for that little extra protection (even if it is mostly in my head) since I tow alot and when I do tow it tends to be a big payload.
#17
03-27-2015, 04:41 PM
If you're burning oil, try the 10w30. These engines were originally designed to run on 10w30, but Chrysler changed the recommendation to increase US fuel economy numbers by a small hair - even though they were still recommending 10w30 for these same engines in Europe. You will have more engine wear and burn oil with 5w20 for that tiny economy increase. Use some regular 10w30, nothing special, and you will notice that your engine sounds better and no longer burns oil.
#18
03-27-2015, 09:56 PM
I watch bob the oil guy topics a lot. Here is what is typically suggested:
<45F avg. 0w-30
>45F avg. 5w-30
>80F avg. 10w-30
Pennzoil High Mileage with cleaning agents is awesome on these vans and only comes next to Mobil1 stuff in reviews for off-the-shelf oils.. Mobil1 is pricey.. Pennzoil 5qt $18.00 at certain department stores..
<45F avg. 0w-30
>45F avg. 5w-30
>80F avg. 10w-30
Pennzoil High Mileage with cleaning agents is awesome on these vans and only comes next to Mobil1 stuff in reviews for off-the-shelf oils.. Mobil1 is pricey.. Pennzoil 5qt $18.00 at certain department stores..
#19
03-28-2015, 01:31 PM
#20
03-28-2015, 04:27 PM
Agree on change cycle I do at least 10k, but I know from experience some oils cause leaks, and 10W+ can cause problem below freezing on start-ups.
If we're going to get geeky, RedLine oil is the only real synthetic and probably the best oil out there as real oil or chemistry guys seem to agree.. It's $50.00 per gallon though..
I'd love to do 20k changes using RedLine or a Group IV oil, but they aren't sold here in NC at any local stores and are expensive.. At the frequency I do changes I'll stick with the cheapest quality oil I can get.
Last edited by tjnc; 03-28-2015 at 04:29 PM.