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[3rd Gen : 96-00]: 99 caravan, interesting gauge cluster problem

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Old 08-17-2014, 01:02 AM
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Default 99 caravan, interesting gauge cluster problem

Greetings all,

I have an interesting couple issues I've noticed develop over the last couple weeks.

I first noticed about 2 weeks ago on my way back to work from an appointment my gauge cluster lost total power as I was accelerating onto the freeway. For just a brief moment all the gauges died, lights went out, everything, then came right back on, displayed the seat belt light and all seemed ok. I made a mental note of this as it was peculiar.

Fast forward to a few days ago. I noticed that my speedometer seems to be acting strangely. As I accelerate the speedometer moves up in a flutter-y stepping type motion. This same behavior happens when I stop as well. The speedometer seems to be lagging behind actual speed changes. I've had a few times where the vehicle will be at a stop, and the speedometer will still be slightly above the 0 line for a second.

I noticed yesterday that again the cluster lost all power, I witnessed the lights go out, the gauges instantly drop to their resting pegs, and then suddenly it all came back on, illuminating the seat belt light briefly.

Now I've read a couple things in the past about a couple solder joints failing in the gauge cluster, and I feel like logically speaking it's a good possibility my cluster is failing. I just wanted to bounce these symptoms around on the Interwebz and see if anyone else has experienced this.

Cheers
 
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Old 08-17-2014, 04:28 PM
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Yup, cluster solder joints is at the top of the list. Exclusive to 3rd generation (96-00) Chrysler vehicles. You could try the quick fix - smack the dash above the cluster. You could try the cluster self test - hold trip button in on the cluster then turn the key to on/run. Within a few seconds the gauges should move to 4 positions then return to zero. All the light segments will go through a test. Let go of the button when movement starts. Here's how you make the cluster fix:
 
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Old 08-17-2014, 11:43 PM
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Thx for the share cougar, was a good video; I think i've seen it before.

Do my symptoms seem to indicate a similar issue in your opinion? I'd kind of think so but I don't know the intricate details on how the gauge cluster works.

My issue is still fairly intermittent, but it's starting to happen with more frequency.
 
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Old 08-18-2014, 04:51 PM
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Loss of gauges is a typical symptom for the solder joint issue. Second on that list would be loss of power or ground. Check for power at pin 2 (pink wire) and pin 11 (red/white wire). Ground is at pin 7 (black/lt green wire)

The fluttering speedo by itself isn't usually on that list but it's not a giant leap to connect the two. That's why I suggested a cluster test/calibration. That will sometimes fix an erratic speedo. More typical causes for an erratic speedo is the output speed sensor but when that's the problem it usually happens along with transmission shift problems. If all the instruments were erratic it's a first sign of weak power, usually the battery or battery cables. Corroded fuse boxes (your PDC) have plagued all model years. Check the cluster fuse contacts for corrosion - fuse 28 on the PDC.
 

Last edited by Cougar41; 08-18-2014 at 04:55 PM.
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Old 08-28-2014, 12:21 AM
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Haven't done any tests or anything yet, but had a new symptom on the way home today and figured I would document it.

I noticed on my way home today that speedo was completely dead. Would not come off the post. The rest of the gauges basically operated as intended (temp gauge read slightly lower than normal, gauge related not engine related), even speed control held proper speed, no shifting issues.
 
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Old 09-03-2014, 11:35 AM
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Originally Posted by issakar
Haven't done any tests or anything yet, but had a new symptom on the way home today and figured I would document it.

I noticed on my way home today that speedo was completely dead. Would not come off the post. The rest of the gauges basically operated as intended (temp gauge read slightly lower than normal, gauge related not engine related), even speed control held proper speed, no shifting issues.

Mine did crazy things too. I seem to have the only circuit board that actually burned out and not the cold solder problem. Had burnt traces next to a chip.
Had to replace the board, but got a used one on eBay for $30.

If you have to replace the board. Make sure you get one with the same functions and connector. 98+ uses a black connector that is rounder.
 
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Old 09-03-2014, 12:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Mikeb-rick
Mine did crazy things too. I seem to have the only circuit board that actually burned out and not the cold solder problem. Had burnt traces next to a chip.
Had to replace the board, but got a used one on eBay for $30.

If you have to replace the board. Make sure you get one with the same functions and connector. 98+ uses a black connector that is rounder.
Thanks for the tip Mike. I'm not sure what's going to happen with this old van, this issue is a low priority now since I blew a brake line yesterday

https://dodgeforum.com/forum/dodge-c...-gas-tank.html

I'm trying to decide if it's time to send her off to pasture or not
 
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Old 09-04-2014, 04:02 PM
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Originally Posted by issakar
Thanks for the tip Mike. I'm not sure what's going to happen with this old van, this issue is a low priority now since I blew a brake line yesterday

https://dodgeforum.com/forum/dodge-c...-gas-tank.html

I'm trying to decide if it's time to send her off to pasture or not
If you rely on the van then fix it if you can, if not then bye bye

I would redo the whole brake line system. It failed once, it will fail again.
 
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Old 10-02-2014, 06:20 PM
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on my way home from work today the entire cluster went dead. I stopped at a light and while waiting for it to turn green gave the dash a couple solid raps with open palm and it sprung back to life.
 
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Old 10-03-2014, 09:40 AM
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Originally Posted by issakar
on my way home from work today the entire cluster went dead. I stopped at a light and while waiting for it to turn green gave the dash a couple solid raps with open palm and it sprung back to life.
Sounds like the cold solder problem. Real easy fix. Just need a soldering iron if you don't have one.

I used these instructions when I removed my cluster.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/landar...7617315319764/
 


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