Hello all!
I have a question about the PCM. We have a 2002 Chrysler T&C EX with the 3.8 V6. Had a fuel injector stuck open, and everything is pointing to the PCM as being the problem. The P/N is P05127677AA. Is this compatible with a PCM ending in AF? What about different numbers? How about Chrysler/Dodge/Plymouth compatibility? I'm looking at junkyards and ebay, and seeing all kinds of P/N's, all saying they will work in an 02 T&C model.
Thanks for your help in advance!
PB

 

No dealership will flash a swap

Most small shops don't buy the database tool to flash in their shops

It's illegal to have the VIN or mileage not matching(can only be done with a flash)

It costs at least $70.00 less to have your original flashed at most dealerships.. If you can persuade them to not just replace the unit(do labor) for 10x the cost.

There are 6 PCM P/N shared across '96-'04 models and you can't just swap ones with transponder-key encryption-keys(SKIM) configured. I never looked at the newer gens.

Heard of people doing it at home with PTP II and CARDAQ to flash but no confirmation. PCM and TCM discussions seem to dead end fast everywhere. Just spend thousand to replace everything for the sake of convenience..

 

Have you checked for a melted wiring harness yet? This is a well-known, chronic problem on the early 4 gens, and would always be the first thing I would check for any problem in this ballpark. And one unfortunate by-product of the melted harness is a PCM problem. The PCM doesn't go bad in all cases, but often enough to no longer be a surprise when it does. Definitely check the harness (and repiar the wires if necessary) before doing anything with the PCM.
The epic thread link below will tell you everything you need to know about this issue.

http://forum.chryslerminivan.net/sho...wn-and-Country

 

Thank you for that link. I've been on that forum as well, but hadn't found that thread. I've been spending all evening with the wiring, and I think I'm more confused than ever, but it seems like I may be on the right track at least. I'll update when I get more info...

 

The best thing to do is get a telescoping mirror from a part store and use a flashlight at night to inspect it, or if you have around a hundred and fifty bucks get a fiber optic lit hand-held viewer. What most people do is take off the induction system and disconnect the harness and do continuity tests with copper wire on the socket holes, but it's a lot of labor and is easy to create a vacuum leak if incorrect torque, pinching, or gasket cracking occurs.

Like I said, there are around eight PCM P/N used on '96-'04 caravan, grand caravan, and T&C. I only know cause I've been through about four-dozen in scrap yards and always look at the TCM and PCM.

 

No idea how the above information relates to the specific wiring harness issue being discussed here. All that's needed is a visual inspection - lift the P/S reservoir, open up the wiring bundle that runs under the res, and inspect each wire individually. No special tools or testing equipment are required to determine if any wiring insulation has melted.

 

No, no....

I flash used PCMs every day, as long as it's the correct one for the car. If it doesn't have SKIM I can't change the VIN, therefore I take no action and advise them to get a remanufactured. That's the only wall you run into.


I can change the mileage in any Chrysler PCM. How do you think a new PCM gets the mileage entered into it? It's the Odometer in the cluster that cannot be changed with a scan tool.


PETE: Do what CV2003 said ++ If you have run the engine with the injector driver code for a while, it's a very good possibility the driver is cooked inside the PCM. I have about a 50% survival rate among the ones I work on. But, I usually get them after 3 shops, a cousin, a sister's boyfriend, Fire bone, Good rear, Prep Girls and Bubba have already worked on it

 

So I pulled the injector wiring harness out last night and checked the wires. Sure enough, underneath the insulation wrap, there was a bare wire. I wrapped it with electrical tape, and am trying to get the whole bundle wrapped up somehow to keep it from melting again. I'm confused though when I try to check continuity through the injector harness, and then on to the PCM connector. A couple of the pins on the 10-pin connector (near the coil) will show continuity with several pins (each) on the PCM side. Does this mean I have a bunch of wires melted together somewhere? Also, does anyone have any recommendations for getting a good PCM? I was going to go with a company on eBay, but haven't gone through with it...

 

One strange thing is that it never showed a code. Fuel was actually coming out of the exhaust connection before the muffler, but there never was a trouble code.

 

It's entirely possible you may not need a new PCM. Have you tried to start it yet? If not, just rig up the bundle with a temp and fire it up to see how that injector is doing now, and how it's running in general.
I know some guys have used electrical tape, but don't know how that works out over time. Many folks use shrink tubes, and that seems to be the most popular. I think a piece of hi-temp large diameter heater hose is the best outer wrap for the bundle, but don't know where to buy a small piece without taking out a second mortgage on the house.