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[3rd Gen : 96-00]: Two Problems with my 2000 Grand Caravan.

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  #1  
Old 10-23-2014, 02:12 AM
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Default Two Problems with my 2000 Grand Caravan.

Hello, Im relatively experienced with this sort of thing. I replaced every single brake line on my 95 Ford Explorer in one job, I also do all of my own work on my 2004 Grand Prix GTP and quite a bit of modding.

I have two issues with my 2000 Grand Caravan though. It's a 3.3L FWD. It was my dad's first new vehicle he ever owned, and pretty much our family's adventure wagon when my brother and I were little. He was too sick to drive for a few years before he passed away a few years ago, and it's been sitting for years now. My mom has been paying insurance on it this whole time, and we wanna trade in for a better explorer because that's falling apart, too.

Took the van to get inspected, they failed it for two reasons. The first reason was a brake line busted while they were testing it. (That was a fun time getting home, 15 minute ride of terror!) It's the rear lines that go up over the fuel tank. My plan is just to cut it in front of the tank, and in back of the tank, and just route 2 new lines along the side of the tank instead of above it. Im gunna do the entire piece from what I think is the ABS box (box with 6 lines coming out of it, just about under the driver seat, bolted to the frame) back.

I have it disconnected already where they meet the rubber brake hoses in the back, but my first question is, what is the best way to go about disconnecting the lines from the ABS box? It's really tight in there. I see the mount that the box is bolted to can probably come down, but since it has all the other steel lines still attached, I dont think it'd get a ton of movement.

The second reason it failed inspection was rocker panel rot. He said it's almost through into the passenger compartment. He told me a body shop could weld some steel in there to make it passable, but he couldnt give me a price because they dont do body work at the place I was at. Im not really familiar with body work or welding, any ideas on how much something like that would cost? Just trying to get it safe before I try to sell it.

Thanks!
 
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Old 10-23-2014, 07:20 AM
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Why not sell it as is? It'll save you a lot of money and you'll most likely still get more then any dealer will give you for trade, without having to fix anything.

Or for your piece of mind, fix the brakes and sell as is.
 
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Old 10-24-2014, 05:18 PM
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Have a look at the following: https://dodgeforum.com/forum/dodge-c...p-by-step.html

1) Your rear lines run from the ABS controller to proportioning valve(s) in the drivers rear wheel well. Then from the proportioning valve to the rear axle.
2) The lines on the ABS controller are tough. You do need to dismount the abs controller and rotate to get access to the lines.
3) Lines at the ABS controller are Metric bubble-flare. These require a special flare tool.
 



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