10k is acceptable with synthetic once out off of warranty. Follow the bozo light until you get there.
FYI, 50 years, 26 cars and an average of 300k miles each. Never had a lubrication related engine failure.

 

I assume that once the message comes up you will see it each start until it's reset?

 

Personally, I like to keep my engine as clean as possible while not letting dollars just fall out of my pocket, so I try to change my full synthetic before 3K miles. My thinking is that at 3K, the oil is dark, has changed appearance, and after an oil change, there is a noticable change in engine response related to the gas pedal. If my engine can notice a change, then fresh oil is much better than 3K oil. Furthermore, I don't want dirty oil circulating through the PCV system, accumulating in the intake area, and I would like to keep my critical engine parts, bearings, roller-rockers, timing components, etc lubed with fresher oil, and no matter how good the oil is dirt still gets into the engine to some degree. Plus, changing the oil gives me the opportunity to look under the vehicle, and inspect other components. Considering how painful it is to hear ticking noises from my engine (roller rockers on two separate occasions), even under my oil change regimen, I don't like the thought of "pushing" my oil at the expense of my engine and its tight tolerance components, and oil pressure sensitive components. 10K would keep me up at night.

 

I use Quaker State Ultimate full synthetic with Fram XG or K&N oil filter (whichever I can find the day I'm changing oil). I change at 5000 miles and the oil is still transparent. You could go 15,000 miles on a full synthetic oil as long as your filter was up to the task. If you buy a filter that claims 20,000 miles like the $15 Fram at Walmart (can't remember the name of it) you could do so. That said I'm under warranty and like round numbers so I do every 5000 miles because I change my oil and it costs about $25 for oil and filter so why not. Also I drive 5000 miles about every 6 weeks.

 

I've used Castrol Edge Full Synthetic 5w-20 since day one in 2013 SXT oil change done at every oil change indicator warning with a purolator or wix filter it has 199586 km as of today never had any engine related issues over the 6 years of ownership. No rocker arm ticking, no cam lob wear, no oil leaks it run just as smooth and quietly as it did on the first day. I did replace the oil by pass valve it broke during an oil change luckily I had one in the glove compartment in the van so when the technician told the bad news I just told him I had a Dorman replacement just put it in. Today oil are better refined gasoline is cleaner less gunk and carbon in engine with governement regulations I do my oil change by the book. Oil Change Indicator Warning come on usually around 12250 -12900 km highest it ever went (7500-8000) miles

 

Correct. Here are the instructions do the reset:

 

Regarding that bypass valve; my suspicion is that the person removing the used filter from the housing is tilting the filter too far in order to avoid the intake air tube, thus severing the valve. Quick lubes seem to be in a hurry. The Doorman presentation of their bypass valve said the vales fail due to excessive dirt and debris causing wear, then failure. I disagree.

 

Chrysler got 2 type of oil filters and 2 different oil by pass valve for the 3.6L pentastar engine. 2011-2013 the oil by pass valve is part of the filter housing which nothing more than a spring and a flimsy plastic nipple. 2014 - 2019 oil by pass valve is integrated in the oil filter cap. The problem with the early version is the nipple is plastic and poorly made and like most plastic parts it become brittle overtime due to heat exposure from the oil temp inadvertently they just break during a filter change poor design on Chrysler part. Now the potential problem in the newer version is that when removing the filter from the housing it should be pulled straight out without any possible twisting of bending of the filter that can result in cracking the oil by pass valve housing.

 

What happens if small chunks of plastic from the nipple, when it breaks, fall into the housing and are impossible to reach? should the vehicle be not started until everything is cleared out, or are those debris not too much to worry about?

 

Since the plastic nipple is under spring tension they usually shoot out like a rocket there's the possibility a small piece or two might be left behind in the housing but upon inspection they can be easily remove with long nose pliers.