SKIM or outdated module firmware can send you on a trip through hell very easily.. Autocomputerexchange or parts house plug and play ECM/PCM AFTER you fix the non-PCM problem that caused the blown driver or no-DTC logged error that caused the P0601 or the like.. Flashing doesn't actually fix errors that can't be erased with readers, permanently, even if done by a high-tech dealership tool..

That's 100% of what you need to know and the master-tech at your local dealership or shop will tell you the same just charge for it.. I know cause I've actually fixed the problems before; P0601 is the worse that can happen to a car by far because no tool for no price will help you find what actually caused it faster than tracing and logging manually..

 

This is probably the best advice I have heard for this issue. There are expert ECM rebuilders who know how to make an ECM that will work for your vehicle. They have figured ways to bypass the OEM security systems and factory programmed restrictions (that force you to go to the dealer), and have the latest firmware and software updates. I can't endorse any company out there, but their sole purpose is to sell you an ECM that works on your vehicle. If these didn't work, they would be out of business. In all my years of reading these boards and the associated horror stories of people trying used ECMs and paying big dollars to dealer service depts to get their vehicles running, I honestly believe this is the only way to go. As mentioned, be sure the problem that fried your original ECM has been repaired (shorted injector or shorted wiring harness as a possibility).

Good luck and keep us posted on your results, whatever way you go.

 

Autozone(when they're not on back-order) and autocomputerexchange are the only PCMs outside of dealerships that I've had luck with, and they are the only ones with fairly solid average reviews. A few returns here and there but it was mostly from people not fixing the issues that blew drivers or wrote permanent code before install.

For some reason all these companies are in Florida.. They are 180-200 with and sometimes without core exchange.

Dealerships charge 75.00-92.00 for a flash, and they have some diagnostics service to trace the electrical system cause, but I never used it. I read it was 100.00 one time.

The best tips I can give:

• Document EVERY ground on your van. Sand all of them and put them back on coated in contact greese.
• Bad battery or battery wiring can cause PCM issues because they cause your ALT to go in to a surge mode at start-up if levels are wrong and blow drivers. I think this special ALT mode is only on certain vehicles.
• I've seen washing engine bay with battery connected cause PCM problems.
• Solenoid and injector harness go directly to PCM pins without protection, they cause problems the most especially when they melt and short because of poor design..
• No quality wiring diagrams exist, so don't bother tracing off of one. This is why PCMs are a problem with caravans in the first place.. The things that don't go through other controllers or regulators corrode and short and are wired directly the the PCM.. I've read about extremely obscured grounds buried in insulation alone causing p0601..

EDIT: I think it takes being told to just replace the PCM at least a couple times by "experts" before you can appreciate what is said here.. PCMs don't break themselves..

 

I do not have a P0601 error. The ONLY code I have is p0202. The wiring harness was frayed to injector 2, so I replaced the whole wiring harness. I also changed the injector for ****s and giggles, even though the current was a standard rating going through it. I'm just looking for two simple questions answered.

1. I have a pcm off of an identical van with same options and the same black keys. Could I simply throw it on to see if it works. Again, these vans both had black keys and identical options and year.

2. If I have to flash, is there any way possible to board flash it.

I apologize if I'm coming off as impolite, I promise this message is sincere. I just don't know where you are getting this p0601 idea from. No code was thrown for that and the reason I'm confident it is a driver in the pcm is because I did the noid light test on wire 2 of the injector harness (new harness).

One final question...

3. Will it in fact damage my BCM if I even tried to put this other one on without flashing?

Thanks.

 

I think you will definitely have to know or find out if the used PCM came from a vehicle that had the SKIM security system. If the SKIM algorithim is in the used PCM, it may transfer to the BCM and then you could be screwed. It makes no difference if the security systems are the same between PCM's. The coded program for SKIM security to work requires that the PCM, BCM, and SKIM module all match up to the chip code embedded in the key chip.
My research indicates that the dealer has no means to remove the SKIM security code on any PCM that was previously coded. They can only add the software based on a 4 digit secret code that is available only to the dealers or the original car buyer. This was probably a security measure by the manufacturer to prevent illegal use of a dealer scan tool if it were to fall in the wrong hands. I think you have a difficult decision if you are unsure of the security system status.

 

1. Not if SKIM/Transponder-key Yes if regular key.. No in between answer. SKIM is a separate computer from TCM, PCM, ABS, and BCM and will just lock down if invalid encryption. Non-SKIM PCM won't go on SKIM system without modding SKIM and vice verse. There is also no "master pcm" like with GM.

2. No. Also, rebuild companies use the $1,200 flash kits with subscription. They actually trash ANYTHING with hardware damage that comes in through core; all of them.

3. If protocol changes in new PCM and BCM writes based on fields yes. TCM and ABS too

EDIT: Color of keys means nothing. I've seen black and gray keys with both configurations per color..

 

So I wanted to return to update you all on everything. I used to swapped pcm from the identical year and model and the car started up for 5 seconds and then shut off. I know you all told me not to do this without reprogramming this used pcm, but I went ahead with a ballsy move and tried it. Like I said, it started up for 5 seconds and then shut off. I put on my original pcm to make sure the car still worked normal after doing this "test" and it still did. So to answer all of your questions-no it will not ruin your BCM to try it. I now now that this pcm at least works and then I have to get it reprogrammed. Out of curiosity though, is it the anti-theft causing it to shut off after 5 seconds? What might be causing it to so this? Now that I proved that it at least starts up on this PCM, does that ensure it should work after reprogramming? Thanks everybody!

 

Final update-used PCM works great. Just needed reprogrammed. Ensure that you have same year/make pcm, and it should work. Module part numbers DO NOT have to match. Just the 5 or 6 digit code.

 

Thanks for your report and hopefully the vehicle will do good for you from here on out.