Thanks for posting this. Unfortunately I have it at a garage. I would have tried this yesterday if I knew. That said, I am assuming the starter works, as there is no power to it. Would this test show where else the problem could be? Such as in the ECM etc.

 

You start with the output side of the relay meaning checking the inputs to the starter relay output switching contacts. Jumping contacts 30 and 87 sends power directly to the starter solenoid bypassing the relay. If the starter spins it proves the fuse, starter and battery are good and all the cabling and wiring in the relay output circuit are good. You then move to the control side of the relay meaning the part of the circuit that powers the relay coil. The coil pulls the output contacts closed completing the circuit.

Checking power at contact 86 proves the power input from the ignition switch, circuit wiring and fuse is reaching the relay coil. The coil still needs a ground to activate. That ground comes from the PCM. You can lift up the relay slightly and with a length of wire touch contact 85 to any ground. If the van starts when you turn the key it proves the PCM is not sending the ground to the relay and the rest of the control circuit is good. The missing ground could be caused by the security system, the range sensor in the transmission not sensing park, the PCM itself or wiring in the circuit. More often then not the PCM is bad.

PCM/ECM the same thing. Dodge just calls it the PCM. Want the wire diagram? It may clarify the above and/or help you when they tell you whats wrong. Send me an email address to send it to via a private message.

Using this method you get a pretty good idea where the problem lies in less than 5 minutes.

 

Thanks to all replies, they are VERY much appreciated. Thanks for the diagnostic directions.


I never checked the ignition fuse (duh?), it was blown. The Garage replaced it, but it blew right away. End result is that they do not know what has caused the fuse to blow. They have increases it to a 20 amp, so far the van is working.
Possibly a rusty starter or an exposed wire is causing a short.

 

I have read that a few people have had problems with remote starters. Is this part of a remote starter? I have circled it.

 

Update; This is a work vehicle, it delivers the mail, so far still working.

 

Update

It has returned to the no start, no crank. the fuse is still good.


1. I jumped pins 30 and 87 with the with the relay removed. No crank.


2. Power at contact 86 was there. 11.37 or similar.


3. pin 85 to ground and turning the key did nothing.


Hopefully I can get it before I send it to the dealership. THANKS for any help!

 

I assume I should check power to the starter again?

 

11.37 vdc is low. Should see in the neighborhood of 12.3 vdc at the battery posts. Charge or replace the battery. That said I would think it would at least attempt to crank. No click, nothing when you jump the relay at 30 and 87? Try it again but tap the starter with a hammer or the like.

Yes, check for power at the starter solenoid connection (yellow/grey wire) with the relay jumped. Not there? Check for power at pin 30. If it's not there you have a problem in the IPM or at the fuse/fuse contacts or the power feed from the battery to the IPM. Could be corrosion or a burned circuit. If you have power at pin 30 you have a problem in the IPM or the wire from the IPM to the starter solenoid is open.

 

Thank you!


I am going away for a few days. Will look at it again later this week or early next week.

 

Update;


I disconnected the battery for the duration of my being away. It started up on first try.


Any thoughts??


IPM? Now I cant check anything with my multi-meter.