[5th Gen : 08+]: 2011 GC Crew overheat issue
#1
06-18-2015, 12:31 PM
Join Date: Jan 2012
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2011 GC Crew overheat issue
2011 Grand Caravan Crew, 3.6L Pentastar, 95K miles
Symptom: So last summer, and now again this summer, every time it's hot out (like 100° plus), and I drive up hills with the AC at full, the van starts to get hot. Last July driving from Phoenix to Flagstaff (which is pretty much uphill all the way), the van got so hot that, even after turning the AC off, it still got near redline and I almost had to pull off the Interstate to let it cool down. However, normal driving on flat roads (even when it hit 115° this past weekend) the temp stays normal (just under the halfway mark on the gauge).
Things it can't be: Fluid level is good (factory/dealer only, I have not added any), no leaks anywhere, hoses seem fine, radiator is not obstructed in any way from the front, the vanes don't seem to be excessively clogged or bent, fans work normally.
Had it at the dealer yesterday (not only for this, but numerous other issues which I'll address in other threads). They told me that I should replace the radiator as it is getting "clogged up" (they did not specify if that was internal or external), replace the hoses, and get a cooling system flush. All this to the tune of several hundred dollars.
My question is, why would the radiator get plugged internally? I've never had this issue with any other vehicle I have owned. Should I try replacing the thermostat first to see if that helps? And if I do have to replace the radiator, how hard it is to do myself? I'm fairly handy with a wrench (did a HG replacement on my Civic), so I like to do as many repairs as possible myself to save on labor costs.
Symptom: So last summer, and now again this summer, every time it's hot out (like 100° plus), and I drive up hills with the AC at full, the van starts to get hot. Last July driving from Phoenix to Flagstaff (which is pretty much uphill all the way), the van got so hot that, even after turning the AC off, it still got near redline and I almost had to pull off the Interstate to let it cool down. However, normal driving on flat roads (even when it hit 115° this past weekend) the temp stays normal (just under the halfway mark on the gauge).
Things it can't be: Fluid level is good (factory/dealer only, I have not added any), no leaks anywhere, hoses seem fine, radiator is not obstructed in any way from the front, the vanes don't seem to be excessively clogged or bent, fans work normally.
Had it at the dealer yesterday (not only for this, but numerous other issues which I'll address in other threads). They told me that I should replace the radiator as it is getting "clogged up" (they did not specify if that was internal or external), replace the hoses, and get a cooling system flush. All this to the tune of several hundred dollars.
My question is, why would the radiator get plugged internally? I've never had this issue with any other vehicle I have owned. Should I try replacing the thermostat first to see if that helps? And if I do have to replace the radiator, how hard it is to do myself? I'm fairly handy with a wrench (did a HG replacement on my Civic), so I like to do as many repairs as possible myself to save on labor costs.
#2
06-23-2015, 11:12 AM
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I spoke to a mechanic buddy of mine (works on Honda/Toyota though), and he recommended I get a flush first to see if that helps. How bout it Dodge service techs, what's your experience with the radiators on these GCs?
I should also mention that the van was at the dealership in February 2013 for the cylinder head recall, and the fluid was drained and refilled at that time. So the original fluid was in there for 2 years, and the new fluid has been in there for 2 years and 4 months.
I should also mention that the van was at the dealership in February 2013 for the cylinder head recall, and the fluid was drained and refilled at that time. So the original fluid was in there for 2 years, and the new fluid has been in there for 2 years and 4 months.
#3
06-28-2015, 04:00 PM
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Well, I now think I know what the majority of the problem was. I just had the TIPM replaced on Friday, and one thing I noticed was that the A/C blower motor was running better, as in moving more volume, like it used to. And now I think my radiator and A/C condenser fans run better too.
About a month ago I drove up to Canyon Lake, which involves some fairly steep mountain grades and a lot of switchback turns. The ambient air temp was 105° that day, and the temp gauge got up above the 3/4 mark several times. Today I did the same drive at the same ambient air temp, and the needle barely got above half.
I do have several spots where the vanes are bent over, and there's a little debris, so I'll straighten and clean those out and I bet that will completely solve my issue.
About a month ago I drove up to Canyon Lake, which involves some fairly steep mountain grades and a lot of switchback turns. The ambient air temp was 105° that day, and the temp gauge got up above the 3/4 mark several times. Today I did the same drive at the same ambient air temp, and the needle barely got above half.
I do have several spots where the vanes are bent over, and there's a little debris, so I'll straighten and clean those out and I bet that will completely solve my issue.