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1996 Dodge Grand Caravan LE AC/Heater Blower, Relay and Resistor Block Problems 101

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  #11  
Old 07-09-2010, 10:44 AM
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Default Thank you!

Thank you to all for your excellent information and pictures! Thanks to you I was able to replace the blower motor, and the resistor on my 99 Dodge caravan. Original problem, the fan stopped working on all but high. Then stopped working completely.. 65 bucks in parts and a lot of free labor, and it's all back! fans speeds and cold air!
 
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Old 08-01-2010, 09:05 PM
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I have a 2002 grand caravan just wondering if the procedure is the same for changing the resistor as i have a blower that works on high speed only my first thought was the control switch but then realized the rear blower switch only functions on high as well thanks
 
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Old 08-01-2010, 10:15 PM
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I believe that was for the 1996 to 2000.
 
  #14  
Old 12-03-2010, 08:02 AM
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Resistor block problem on my 97 caravan. Great info posted here. Thank You. Saved me a lot of time asking people who think they know and can lead you down the wrong path just to sell you stuff.
 
  #15  
Old 02-22-2011, 05:53 PM
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Default Pigtail perhaps

Replaced resistor, fuse, relay. I did however notice that like the jpeg one of my connectors is burnt as well. Could it be that the pigtail is keeping tthe blower from functioning? As usual like everyone else, I had the control issue that wouldn't work except on the high setting. Quit working 2 days ago. Was working on high and then it would quit on me coming on intermittently. Any ideas? The pigtail didnt seem to be burnt too badly.
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Old 02-22-2011, 06:34 PM
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Originally Posted by GTCaravan
Replaced resistor, fuse, relay. I did however notice that like the jpeg one of my connectors is burnt as well. Could it be that the pigtail is keeping tthe blower from functioning? As usual like everyone else, I had the control issue that wouldn't work except on the high setting. Quit working 2 days ago. Was working on high and then it would quit on me coming on intermittently. Any ideas? The pigtail didnt seem to be burnt too badly.
Thanks
GTCaravan
Burned contacts indicate high current or just a poor connection. I would suspect the blower motor bearings may be siezing creating friction and drawing higher current to keep running. Clean or replace the pigtail. Consider a new blower.
 
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Old 02-22-2011, 06:49 PM
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Default Trying to chase.

Originally Posted by Cougar41
Burned contacts indicate high current or just a poor connection. I would suspect the blower motor bearings may be siezing creating friction and drawing higher current to keep running. Clean or replace the pigtail. Consider a new blower.
Thanks. I am considering a new blower motor, however I am chasing every possible thing before I change that. If it is the difference between the pigtail and the blower itself it will save me considerable $$$$. Thanks for your input for sure.
 
  #18  
Old 02-23-2011, 03:27 PM
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II was having the same problem and it turned out to be the motor was shot easy way to test is unplug motor by the glove compartment and jump the motor from a jumper pack when changing the motor the front 4 bolts inn the housing are pretty easy but the one in the back is impossible to get without removing the dash I recommend snapping it off as it only supports a plastic housing
 
  #19  
Old 03-31-2011, 10:15 PM
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Originally Posted by lowb44
To add to the list of symptoms for #3...when I turned off the AC/heater fan, the AC LED would remain on until I turned the car off. It turned out to be the blower motor which was replaced for about $60, but I can;t explain why the bad motor would keep the AC LED on.
We had the same issue. However it really wasn't an issue. It just meant the the AC was working and if we drove down the freeway we had decent cooling even thought the fan wasn't turning!
 
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Old 03-31-2011, 10:27 PM
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Thanks for all the helpful l instructions. I am trying to replace the fan motor. I removed the old motor and fan combo and bought a replacement motor at Checkers. However I'm having trouble removing the fan and housing from the old motor. The instructions say to remove 2 screws from the motor housing and then and then depress the 3 rubber bushings to release the motor from the housing.

I don't see any rubber bushings. I guess a picture or more description would help.
Thanks.
 


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