Hi-

I have an 04 GC SXT. It's our second Caravan and it's great. Never had a problem with either one of them... until now. The power passenger side sliding door won't open past 10 inches or so when it's opened with the button. The door is easy to open manually, and it shuts automatically just fine. The hardware is well lubed and seemingly smooth. Inexplicably, it stops every time. It just started happening today. Of course, the warranty expired a month ago...[:@]

I browsed through old posts but didn't see a reference. Help! Help!

If your a good customer to a dealer, they may help you on extending this repair under warranty. Could be many things causing it, nothing that can be diagnosed without the Chrysler scan tool.

On out 2005 GC our door would get almost closed and then open back up. I took in for warrenty and they replaced the wire harness from the motor on the door to the B pilar. Thats the flexable wire track below the door. Maybe takes a few minuter to install.

Thanks for the replies. I'm thinking electrical over mechanical because the door is smooth and easy to operate manually, and it does fully close automatically. That wiring harness may well be a good lead to chase. It's never been in an accident and has always been meticulously maintained so I am a bit surprised and disappointed this happened. But things do happen, I understand.

Well mine has never been in an accident either and just went out 5 months ago. I first thought it was the motor, because it acted like something was in the doors way. I called the local parts counter ( I work in Autobody) and asked him about the problem, he told me they don't stock the motors but have alot of the wire harness's in stock. So that tells you something right there. Also my door worked fine manually also. The service tech said a wire in the harness gets worn out and causes the problem. All I know they replaced it and it is fine.

Just for a thought I beleive both sides uses the same wire harness and is not hard to swap. Maybe give it a try.

Thanks, great suggestion.

Now the check engine light came on. Amazing, 500 miles out of warranty and it's a pile pf junk. And this puppy purred perfectly for the entire life of the warranty.

We have a fleet of these vans. There is a wire that consistantly breaks in the track. It stops at that location because that is the point where it looses connection so it does not know what do.

Its pretty expensive to replace. However, if you plan to keep it long term I would buy and ESP plan and take it in after.

Oddly enough, the check engine light has gone off now. Stayed on solid for a week or so now it's out? Any ideas there? The door is still not working, btw.

You may have not tightened the gas cap enough on fillup.

Did you getthe door working, i am having the same problem, i am going to try the cable swap. 1 door works and the other doesnt. does anyone have the part # and the cost of the harness?


No, haven't gone further with it. Except that at first, it closed automatically, but now it stopped doing that as well. It stops at the same point, whether opening or closing. Keep us posted on your progress.

Hi,
I am having the exact same problem with the exact same vehicle.
Have you the thin cable wire below the gear that operates the door?
It seems that this cable changes orientation as the door turns to latch perhaps signaling the motor to turn off. It could be that the motor is simply turning off to soon. It seems unlikely to be a bad electrical wire as the problem is not intermitent or effected by moving the wire.Hopfully I will have time to explore this weekend

Finally got it to the dealer yesterday. It turned out to be that door harness mentioned here previously. Bummer.

I have a 2005 Dodge Grand Caravan Special Edition. The passenger side sliding door opened to a certain point and then stopped the same plave everytime. Just with in the past day it totally stopped working, it makes the unlocking sound when I hit the button on my key chain, but that's it. I've seen that the wiring harness could be the problem, but does anybody know where i can get one? I've looked everywhere on the net and can't find anything!!!! If anybody knows, or have any suggestions let me know!!! Thanks!

I too am having the exact same problem with the exact same car. So this is no fluke.

Can you tell us how much that part cost? Did you consider doing it yourself? I have an ESP but with a $100 deductible.

Sorry this took a while to respond, I haven't checked in in a while. The part cost about $135.00 and to everyone else, YES, that's definitely the problem.

Took mine in and yes its the wiring harness but my extended plan won't cover it. Dealer wanted $300 to fix it but I talked them down to $200. Still not sure if its even worth $65 labor...can anyone who has replaced this themselves offer any replacement instructions? Thanks.

I have a 2005 ext and the passenger power sliding door intermittently started to stop when the door openedapproximately 6". I would then manually open the door therest of the way. Then when closing the door via power it would stop about 6" from close. I went to the dealer with an estimate of $750 to replace the wire harness and motor. When I asked which was the problem the harness or motor I got the "deer in the headlights" and was told both. Not believing them I decided to do some of my own diagnosing. I do have an advantage when dealing with automotive electrical systems because I installed remote starters and alarms for 10 years. Little pat on the back there. It seemed to definitely be some kind of electrical issue. I couldbelieve the motor if there were some kind of limit switch but the problem acts just like typical door harness circuits whena wire fatigues because of repetitive bending. This problem could be diagnosed easily two ways.
1. Swap passenger side for driver side harnesses and see if it worked
2. Use multimeter to test continuity between the ends of the harness.
I opted for number 2 because I didn't want to tear our two harnesses which isn't that difficult but I am lazy. Disconnect the battery. I proceeded to unplug the harness on the car side which is behind plastic panel attached to the pillar between the front seat area and back sear area. I then unplugged the harness on the motor/door side. Put your meter on ohms or continuity and test between both ends of the plugs all wires for continuity. Slide the door shut and open for each wire. There were approximately 8 or 9 wires in the plug as I remember. Most of the wires were smaller and there were 2-3 that were larger gage. The wire that was broke in my circuit was a larger gauge solid black wire. approx. 14gauge. I carefully removed the harness the rest of the way from the car to work on my bench.
The flexible conduit is fastened with "christmas" style pins to the uni body sheet-metal so just pry up. If you don't have a "panel popper" use a pair of wire cutters to pry them up. To disengage it from the door. There is a little black plastic plug/pin thing. Pull it back and push down. Here is where you need to be meticulous if you want to replace the one bad wire. Carefully with a razor blade cut away all tape. Before you do this mark with a paint marker on the harness and special wire protectors where tape started and stopped. This way you can get the harness to lay back in the van correctly. I started by figuring out how to pull apart the special electrical plugs so I could use the ends and completely replace the wire. Just stop here. I got them apart but the problem was the special crimp ends were crimped down so much I started to ruin the end trying to get them off. So just don't do it. You will never find someone who can sellyou these special ends. Instead back up from the plug ends about 2-3" and cut the wire. Use the bad wire to pull a new wire through the flexible wire loom. I was definitely able to see a break in the wire. I almost wasn't able to pull the wire through because of it and got lucky. Don't panic. If it breaks just take your time and some tweezers and get it run through. Solder the new wire to the old ends. Make sure your new wire is cut exactly the same as the old. Add the length of the wire coating you stripped off each end of the plugs though. This way the harness will role and move in the track the way it was intended. Carefully using all of your paint marks realign all of the special looms and tape up. Reinstall and it should work. I suggest taking pictures of the harness in case you get confused putting it back together. Or look at the other side. Good luck. It really only took me about an hour or two to do.

Joe, this is a good write-up! I haven't tried it since I just had the dealership find and fix it. I knew there were issues like this, but couldn't take the time from school to find it....now I know.
I think this is going to be and will continue to be an issue, so I will stick the thread to allow it to be easily found, although the search feature works too.

Those Cat. Converters are nothing but a pain no matter what vehicle you have...I would say for how old the vehicle is (not old assuming) you just have a fidgety Cat converter. I would not worry too much about that.

Umm, this thread is about the sliding door, not the catalytic converter, bro. I think you have posted in the wrong thread.

Hey all,

New user and first post.

My wife's 2003 Caravan has a passenger side power sliding door, this vehicle is actually a Braun Entervan with a lowered floor, ramp, hand controls and kneeling system. She has to use the power sliding door extensively and as you can imaging this heavy usage and the fact we live in Maine where the cold does numbers on the wiring insulation as it moves back and forth in the track, causes one or more wire breaks a year.

Thank goodness I am pretty mechanically inclined so I can make repairs on the wiring harness myself but todays break has me stumped. I made one fix on a break and fixed two other possible weak ones but the door still stops half way through the open or close motion. It still acts like a broken wire but I can't find it.

On to the real question: Does anyone have a wiring diagram of the power door system they can share with me? This would help me identify the wire to the door motor so I can narrow my search down.

Thank you,

Paul.


I just developed this same problem on my 2005 Dodge Grand Caravan within the past week my right side passenger stops within ten inches of closeing but lucky for me i still have warrenty left so i intend to call my dodge dealer Tommorow.
Once i find out the problem and get mine repaired i'll come back and make anouther post.

after you have fixed all the wires there is also a flash for some door controllers

Don't forget to get your BCM computer updated with the most recent firmware. Without it, it may cause your door locks to stop responding without resetting the BCM.
As for your door, it's most likely the wiring that runs along the opening at the bottom of the door (vehicle side). The wiring is just an error waiting to happen. You probably have a broken wire or two just like the rest of us had. lol You're lucky yours is still under warranty. Mine messed up shortly after.

Joe,

Thank you very much for the very nice write up. I followed it exactly and it worked well. Before starting the work, I made sure I the 14 gauge wire, shrink wrap tubing and soldering iron. The work was a piece of cake but would've helped if I had the trim plug remover.

My son has a problem when the door closes (2005 Grand Caravan). Seems to want to close, but the motor clicks several times and will not close. Seems like the door travel is off. My understanding is that the door will close manually. Is this the same issue? I think it may be an adjustment, but I can't see how to give the door a little less travel. Any ideas?

Mike

There are software update for power door problems make sure you are up to date before you make any adjustments

I had the same problem everyone else is having (door gets to within 4-5 inches of closing, then stops. Then it stops moving all together, from the open or closed position)

The problem is 100% the wire-harness. Part #4868121AE (for driver side sliding door)

I bought from the dealer, $135, and installed in about 45 minutes. Worked like a charm, door opens/closes perfectly from inside or with key FOB.

Didn't want to mess with trying to put new wires in the existing assembly, as others have. Just pulled out the old complete unit and put in the new one.

If you need specifics on the install let me know..

I have the same problem with my power slideing door on my 2005 GrandCaravan and it's located on the Drvers side.
This door has been acting this way for several months so i decided it was time to do something about it last month so i stoped in at a Dodge grage and the door worked perfectly fine. the guy tried it about 8 or 9 times and it closed evarytime.
When i got home i tried it and sure enough the door would'nt close and never has since i was at the gargage so i intend to take it back because i hae a few months of the extended warrenty left on the van.

I have a 2008 Grand Caravan with the same issue. My van has less than 24,000 on it and it is already doing it! Took it in and it is the harness. I also noticed that the door (drivers side) sits a little high (looks like it is slightly high on the track). I know Dodge is very hesitant/resistant to any sort of recalls, but this issue seems to be spanning a number of years. Why haven't they redesigned this yet?

anybody know if there is any difference between 4868121AB & 4868121AE harnesses?

They are both drivers side power sliding doors.

the AE is for a 2001

We took ours in for this and they did a reflash "18193114 flash reprogram- module"

11107 oversensitive obstruction performed TSB 08-011-08

So far doors work OK.. Ted O.

Thanks for the info! I got it back and it worked fine for a couple of days but it has started "almost" closing and then reopening. It's only done that a few times since I got it back, so it is intermittent- no way to predict when it will do it. It still looks like it is sitting high on the track and I can hear cars as they pass by and a little wind noise. I just bought the van used from the dealer, hopefully they'll honor their work.

bberretta , yes take it back before your warrenty runs out.. oversensitive obstruction protection is probally kicking in because the door is not riding correctly on its rails..

Dont mess around getting your door repaired under warrenty because these modules can be quite expensive to replace. I just took my 2005 Grand Caavan to the shop yesterday ad was told to bring it back when i can let the van at the garage for a few days because they suspect a bad module is causeing the slideing door behind the driver wont open or close except by useing the outside door handel to manuely open and close the door.

Good news, after a week our doors are still working as they are supposed to, they were failing about 50% of the time to close properly...

My sister's van had the same issue. She has a 2002 Caravan and the right side harness went bad.

i had the same problem. i took it in and they updated the computer. they work perfect now.

How Do I install the sliding door harness on the driver side, rear door.

Bob S.

Hello to everyone in the forum, i've been saying i was going to get my slideing door fixed for the last 6 months. The door giveing me the problem is the one located behind the driver. anway about two weeks ago i took my 2005 Grand Dodge Caravan to the Dodge garage and left it there for a day untill the phoned me to pick up my van because they ordered some kind of strap for it.....that was two weeks ago and i am still waiting for the garage to call me and tell me my part is in.

I like my Dodge van but it's one of the hardest vechicles on brake's and brake drums that i ever owned. I have 57000 miles on it and i have had 3 brake jobs, one of repairs took both brakes and the rotors turned down and the most recent brake repair last year it took both new brakes and new rotors.
I never ride the brakes either ..shoot i am a retired tractor trailer driver with one million acident free miles under my belt.

The wost thing that happend to my 2005 Dodge van is when the engine blew with 46000 miles on it.....oh well i still have the extended warrentie on it so it only cost me a $50.00 deductable fee.
I still have 13000 miles or two years left on my extended warrentie for my van.

I just bought a new PT Crusier an 07 last year i have close to 19000 on it and so far so good and i did take an extened warrentie out on it>>Bumper to Bumper for 7 years or 70.000 miles.
I just hope Chrysler is going to back these extened warrenties if they decide to file bankuptcy.
Have a good week everyone
Doc Holliday

I have that same problem on my 05 GrandCaravan Forestell but i do have a few months of my extended warrenty left so i took my van to my local Dodge dealer and let it there for a day. They called me the next day and said they need to replace a strap on that door but they did'nt have any in stock....that was two weeks ago. I called the garage this past Friday April 10th and they told me Chrysler had just got an order in of 17000 straps and were sending them to the dealers so with any luck i hope to get my door fixed this week.
I'll make anouther post when the repair is compleated and will allso ask what the cost of the strap is so i can let outhers know along with the labor charge...lucky for me i just have to pay the $50.00 deductable.

Hello to everyone in the forum., i have made several posts regaurding this issue because i am haveing that problem with the slideing door on the drivers side.
I stoped in at my local Dodge dealer about a month ago and have been waiting on a call to bring my 2005 Dodge Grand Carvan in and have it repaired under the extended warrentie program. I called them about a week ago and the dealer said Chrysler just sent 17000 belts out but here i am a week later and nothing happening.
Have a great week

I hope there is a TSB for my 07 GC SXT Braun Companionvan. It too has a lowered floor and wheelchair ramp for my son. Both doors do it, but the passenger side is getting worse. It was bought new 02/08 and only has 4800 miles on it.

Hello to everyone in the forum and i hope you are haveing a nice weekend, i still have'nt got a call from my Dodge dealer to come in and get that strap to fix my slideing door.
I am begining to wander what happened to the 17000 suposedly straps they were to have sent out a couple of weeks ago.

Hi to evryone in the forum, i took my Dodge GranDCaravan to the shop today and had the power slideing door reparied on the drivers side all it took was a $135.00 strap but i only had to pay $50.00 because of my extended warrenty.
I suppose the whole job labor costs and all would have exceded $300.00 if i would have had to pay for the entire job.
Anyway Chrysler is honoring their extended warrenties and my Power slideing door works like it did when it was brand new. I also took notice that Chrysler has'nt changed their design on these doors wich is a mystery to me.
Hae a great weekend everyone

Ok, so the passenger power door no longer works at all on our 2004 GC.

Motor does not engage at all - must do everything manually.

Does this sound like the wiring harness or is it the motor itself?

No problems using the door manually - no "drag", no latching issues.

Hoping it's just the harness...as that seems easier and cheaper to fix, from what I've read.

Thanks for any feedback!

Thank you to all that posted in this thread.

I recently purchased a 2005 Grand Caravan that has power sliding doors.

The day after I picked it up, the drivers side door would work intermittenly. I searched online and found this thread describing the harness problems. I figured it was worth a look so I took the harness out and sure enough the black and red wire was broken in the looming and would only have continuity when you moved the wires around.

I replaced the wire and now the door works perfectly.

If you have a problem, I would recommend checking this harness first because it is simple to remove and check.

wiring diagram, 2005 Caravan right power sliding door. Left is similar



Hope this helps you all.

There is no harness issue that I know of for the 2008 vans, it is a software issue in the door controllers.

Warrenty for the rear evaperator on '06 and '07 model year Caravan, Town & Country has been extended to 7 years and 70,000 miles. If your close, have it checked

 

My wife found (last night) that our 2005 Caravan SXT passenger, power sliding door developed the symptom of not opening nor closing fully. When signaled to close, it would stop 10"-6" from closing and stop in the same "area" when asked to open.

Does anyone know if Chrysler has updated (redesigned) the wiring harness to prevent wire failure?

Thanks

 

They have changed suppliers that hopefully are using better quality wire. I haven't had any repeat failures to the one's I have done.

 

Have 2006 GC passanger slider will open about 6-10 inches, then stop. You can manually open and close OK. If you manually open and then try to close with remote, nothing happends. Door only opens a little from close.

Any idea's

Thanks

 

I have a 08 GC and my power sliding doors will get to about 95% closed and reopen, this only seems to happen when its parked in front of my house for the most part, there is a little bit of a incline at the curb but nothing huge, im beginning to think its related to that, havent taken it to the dealer about this yet been having to many other issues with it(power steering hose, transmission, carstarter, ect ect).......but thats for another post.

 

DT, that is a common issue with the '08 van and is usually fixed with a software update to the sliding door modules.

 

I read through everyone problems with this door. I've had this problem with the driver's side slider door just shortly after my warranty went out (go figure) on my 05 GC. After reading everyone's comments, I too thought I had a cable issue.

Original problem:
Pressing open on door/overhead/remote would open (just release latch & move 3" or so) and then nothing. The door would auto-lock and engage when door was manually closed.


I also recently just had power lock issues where unlock/lock would not function at all whether from remote or doors. I read in another forum to pull fuse (IOD) for five seconds and re-insert. This was done and now the locks work fine. I then went out to troubleshoot the sliding door. I took out assembly as people suggested and trace the entire wire, looking for a short/break somewhere. I was not able to find to any breakage in wire. I taped everything together again and put unit back in.

New problem:
Now the doors won't even open (release latch) when the door is closed. When the remote/overhead/door button is pressed, you can hear the same sound as it was "unlocking" doors, but no other noise. The lights also flash as its "unlocking" too. The door also doesn't tighten/lock up as you manually close the door, as it used to and should. What is also a strange issue is that when I press unlock once (either keyfob or door), both the driver's door unlocks instead of just the driver door and not any of the other 3 doors....??

Anyone has idea what the issue could be this time? I am thinking maybe the connectors for the sliding doors are corroded, but I can't seem to disconnect them...

 

I have posted about this issue a few times. I too have the 2005 Dodge GC and have replaced both wire harness twice (meaning each side 2 times). It is not he OID, although I have had this problem many times and the fuse pull does work.

Just pony up the $130 for a new harness and take the 20 minutes to replace it. It will work fine after that...

Brian

 

Have the door modules ck for codes and then clear them with a scanner,then see which codes come back.

 

Is this the same is an engine computer scan? Can you please elaborate on this process?