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96 Voyager, autumn & no heat!

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Old 10-17-2006, 03:41 PM
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Default 96 Voyager, autumn & no heat!

Chrysler Wizards,

The heater hoses are hot to and from the heater core. The temperature switch has no effect. Don't know when problem started - only tried the heater this week with the cold weather. This van has had no a/c for a few years (the belt is was gone - no need or money to have the a/c serviced) and obviously the temperature control switch controls both heat and a/c, which might complicate things. Since the core is hot and the switch and harness look ok, is it correct to think the blend door actuators are failing or out of synch or just plain stuck? When we activate the "recirculation" button there is a lag time of a few seconds and then we hear the air flow really change, so at least part of the air blend system works. Also the air flow direction (?) - toward feet, middle, face - works.
The "search" feature on this site showed some scary complicated information about calibrating the system, but I'm doubtful about that process since the a/c has been neglected for years. ??
Is there any sense in trying to physically get to the blend doors and give them a shake or some WD-40?
On my 64 Valiant there was a cable and it worked perfectly every time!!

Any help or direction grreatly appreciated. Victor
 
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Old 11-12-2006, 04:14 PM
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Default RE: 96 Voyager, autumn & no heat!

Help is on the way!
I searched this topic 2 years ago and I finally found the answer to this not uncommon Chryser problem. I was surprised to find that dealers, mechanics, et al, had no solution for this, except of course to throw money at it. There is a 'slime' that builds up in the heater core as well as possibly a partial air lock. What happens is not as important as how to fix it.
The hardware store will sell you a garden hose adaptor that has a female end to attach to the garden hose and a sleeve that will fit inside your heater hose. Make sure you get the right size for your heater hose. Disconnect your heater hoses, preferably at the opposite end from the core. Do not try to force them off the heater, you can twist the pipes off doing that. If they are hard to remove them it is better to cut them off and replace the hose. Connect the garden hose to the top hose and start with a low setting and let it run. Catch the flow from the other hose in a 5-gallon can or garbage can and dispose of it properly, of course. As the flow steadies out increase the flow. Let it flow for 20 minutes. Yes, 20 minutes. The slime dissolves slowy, so lots of time is required. (Rad flushes, back-flush, etc. do not accomplish the same thing, many have tried). When the time is up, switch to the opposite hose and ensure it will take a full flow. Connect the bottom hose first and then hold the top hose up a little and pour in water to ensure it is full, this removes any trapped air. Connect the top hose.
I assume that you can adjust this procedure to your particular vehicle and situation and that you will replentish anti-freeze as required. For instance you can cut your hoses and add splices or you can add a flush fitting. Just remember to block the engine side of the flush fitting if you use one so that only the heater is being flushed.
This all sounded too simple when I heard it but it works and the key is the TIME. Lots of water, lots of time. Water is pretty cheap and I assume you have some time to try this.
Let me know how things work out for you.
 


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