I have a 2k caravan with 3.3L with 66k miles. I am going to drop the tranny pan and replace the filter and fluid. But I am not 100% on the type of transmission. How do I know if its a 3 or 4 speed?

 

I would venture to say that you have a 4 speed over-drive transmission.
Usually there is come kind of label (either under the hood, sometimes there is a sticker in the glove box).
You can always call up the dealership and give them your VIN and they can tell you.

You should use ATF+4. On 1999 and older transmissions, I hear its best to use ATF+3.

*edit* Changed some verb-age.

 

I checked the engine compartment but couldn't find any tag or label. Owers manual had no info. Thanks for the insight.


I've been reading about the ATF+4 and just wondering how the it compares with DexronIII or Amsoil?

 

If it's a 3.3/3.8, then it's an A604 (41TE). Use ONLY ATF+4 fluid in this tranny. It is formulated by DC for use in this application. Some people use Amsoil and so far it is working. It's around $3K to replace the tranny so I don't experiment with it. ATF+4 probably can go longer then the 30K that DC says, but you will have to do OCA. Cheaper to change the fluid. The spec from DC for approved fluid is so tight that it all is DC ATF+4. Wally World ATF+4 is fine to use.
It's best to use the $tealer or NAPA filter and reusable gasket (1 05011115AA Gasket, Transmission Oil Pan, 41TE/AE, pan bolt torque is 144 inch pounds) as these are known to work.

There is a metal plate on the passenger side, end of the radiator in the 3ed gen vans that contains the build info. I don't know if it's in the same place on 4th gen vans. You will need a manual to decipher the number/letter codes.

As always, good luck with your project!

 

Yea, do NOT use Dexron. ATF+X has pretty much totally differant chemical properties than Dexron (read this). An additive will not change those properties.
As webbee said, you should use ONLY ATF+4. You may hear someone saying to "only use ATF+3 because ATF+4 caused some problems in the minivan transmissions" but those were 1999 and older minivans. 2000 and up use only ATF+4.

 

This is the root post. Here I have another question. When the new solenoid cluster was installed New oil was put in to top off what was lost and guess what was used. DexronIII. Should I completely flush out the out fluid? How may quarts will fill the case and pan etc...?

Thanks for all the info

 

It would probably be a good idea to do a full flush.
As far as fluid capacity, I don't know the specific. For a pan drop and filter change its probably around 4 or 5 quarts.
For a filter change and flush (or, just a flush) its probably around 10-12 quarts.

 

Get the Dextron III out as soon as possible! It will screw up the clutches and other parts. A full ATF+4 flush with filter change is recommended. dodgerules86 is right, about 12 quarts for a complete flush. Make sure you don't run the pump dry when flushing. You should do the filter/fluid change in the pan first. You will disconnect the return line from the cooler to tranny, install a clear vinyl hose, and put that into an empty gal milk jug. The person filling must be able to see the jug while filling through the tube. Have a helper start the motor and as it pumps the fluid out, you should be putting fluid into the fill neck as fast as it's coming out. You may have to have the van shut down if it starts getting ahead of you. You will pump the old fluid out until the fluid color changes in the vinyl hose. At that point shut the van down, reassemble the hoses, and check the fluid level. Don't forget to run it through all the gears while flushing and again after it's back together. You have to be real careful you don't run the pan/pump dry while flushing. It probably will take 2 milk jugs to completely flush the old fluid out. You also want the replacement qt's of fluid ready to pore, with the caps off. This procedure isn't hard, but you must pay attention. If the pump goes dry it can cause it to fail and you will be rebuilding the tranny. Set-up/preparedness is everything for this job.

I also suggest that while you have the pan off you install a HELP! transmission drain kit, part number 65128. Be sure to blue/red Loctite the nut that holds the drain assembly on the inside of the pan. Don't Loctite the removable bolt that allows the fluid to drain. This makes pan drainage soooo much easier.
Follow the installation instructions.

If you do the NAPA filter it comes with a gasket, so you won't need the $tealer reusable one.

 

webbee Thanks for the advice. I will be doing it this weekend and will follow that procedure. I'll let you know how I make out.

 

I would like to clarify some points in my last post.
You should have the van on jack stands or ramps. Never depend on jacks or cement blocks to hold the van up. Work safe!
Put a lot of cardboard under the van. Use a larger catch container than the tranny pan and it also will have to hold about 6 quarts. When you break the seal, fluid runs from all the edges of the pan. I leave the 4 corner screws in until I have removed all the other pan screws. I then remove the corner bolts about 1/2 way and tap the pan with a rubber mallet to break the seal. That's when the mess starts. This is where that drain plug is handy.
When you remove the pan make sure you clean the magnet of the furry crap and the black stuff in the pan bottom.
Clean the mating surfaces of the pan/tranny carefully as it is aluminum and scratches may leak.
Put the rubber o-ring on the filter neck before installing it. Push it straight up and you will feel it connect although they can require a hefty push. Filter to valve body screws - 40 in-lbs if your filter has them.
Get vinyl hose the same inner diameter as your tranny to cooler hose. If you disconnect it at the cooler you can hook the vinyl hose to the cooler and be sure to clamp it. The hose will then go to the milk jug and within the sight of the person doing the fill. Put the jug in a catch pan in case you overflow it.
The tranny will pump in either drive or neutral. It won't pump in park. Make sure the parking break is on during this whole procedure.
Repeat parking break on! The assistant should never have his foot on the accelerator pedal at any time during this procedure.
You will need a large funnel which fits into the tranny fill tube. It may be easier/faster to pour if you get the ATF+4 in gallons. I forget if WM has their house ATF+4 in gallons. If not quarts work too.
Run some of the new fluid into the jug so that you are sure all the old is out.
Let the first jug fill to a little over 3/4 full, then have the assistant shut the motor off. It might be a good idea if the assistant can see the fluid level in the jug too.
Take it for a drive when you get it all back together to heat the fluid up. When you return, check the hot fluid level and top/reduce the fluid level as needed. Make sure you are on level ground.
tinmann I am sure you know most/all of what I have suggested. I am also trying to help someone reading this who hasn't done this before. I think this is complete but I could have left something out, in which case, I hope another poster will chime in. You should read the manual if you haven't changed tranny fluid before to review the procedure.

As always, good luck with your project!