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Dodge Classics Have a pre-muscle era car? How about an old pickup truck? Talk classic automobiles within.

75 year old Aussie Dodge

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  #1  
Old 03-30-2012, 08:40 AM
Aussie37 Aussie37 is offline
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Default 75 year old Aussie Dodge

G'Day from Australia

Found this site after talking to The Plymouth Doctor in the USA.
Ordered some new steel repro parts from them to help transform an old bomb into something a little more modern.
Had it for just over 1 year now, and the rat skeletons and nests have been removed, had the chassis grit blasted, along with the grille shell, headlamp pods, running boards and inner guards. Still got a looong way to go, but I have a mental image that is my goal.

So far, the front tube axle has been given the flick, so has the ol' 6, and rear axle set up.

Still have a lot of tin worm to address, at least my labour is free.

Here's a couple of photos from the start.

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It's a Dodge Six. Model D5, made in Australia 1937. First all steel bodied car here - beat GM to the punch by 2 years. Factory was in Adelaide South Australia - T.J. Richards, a coach builder ended up making bodies for Dodge/Plymouth/DeSoto, I think Chrysler bought into the operations around 1925, Factory was changed to building fighter planes in WWII.
Today it's Mitsubishi Australia plant.
Heaps of room in the back, front doors open normally, rear doors are suicide. Using 1983 Jaguar front end, & rear end. Inside I'll have reverse camera, bluetooth, Ipod conn, A/C, Power windows (from the Jag), Power seats (came from a '93 Toyota Aristo - very comfy) rear seat is modded Jag's rear seat. Hope to give progress pics as I go along. Looking for body trims, stainless steel in origin. Headlamp trim rings were missing, but I found a company in USA called Headwinds makes new bezels to adapt a 7" round H4 insert, so at least I get good lighting.

Cheers!
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  #2  
Old 03-30-2012, 04:21 PM
moe7404 moe7404 is offline
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dont for get to swap it over to 12 volt. check out hoping up the stock engine. i had a 1957 dodge pick up with a flat head 6 cyl. i made an adpter to hold a 318 two bdl carb, it was like adding an other engine. just be sure it doesnt lock at wide open.
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  #3  
Old 03-31-2012, 07:18 PM
Aussie37 Aussie37 is offline
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Thanks, 12v neg earth is the way. 6cyl is long gone, a guy with a '38 bought it off me. Along with the rear axle/diff/leafsprings, and the steering wheel/column/box.
Front axle & leafs went to the pres of a rod club.

This is where I want to end up.

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It'll be a while I can tell you.

Body off, so chassis work can begin

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had it blasted clean, fixed a few small cracks not seen before the clean-up. Made a steel jig to be a "flat" base to get all this done. My floor was off at one corner by half an inch.

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Jag front end cleaned up ready for fitting

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On the jig getting centred up

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Ordered a few bits from Steele Rubber in the USA - body mounts, cowl vent seal, headlight mount rubbers, some door stops etc.

more to come.
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  #4  
Old 03-31-2012, 07:38 PM
Aussie37 Aussie37 is offline
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Crossmember to horns distance is large, so I needed to make a graft like this

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Made sway bar mounts too

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Running boards next, surgery after blasting

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New patches, new mount rails, new longitudinal tubes underneath

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Grille shell next, had to make some new captive nuts around the front; this car had so much stuff rusted & siezed, makes all jobs time consuming. But it's being done right.


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Mocking up the guards to see if the wheels are clocked. All good in original Dodge centre line positions.


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Cheers
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  #5  
Old 04-08-2012, 06:44 AM
Aussie37 Aussie37 is offline
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Got some goodies delivered from Wayne at The Plymouth Doctor in the U.S.

He's a great guy to deal with and I recommend him to anyone with an ol' Mopar needing this gear.

http://www.plymouthdoctor.com/

This fella has saved me immeasurable grief in locating or making new steel for 'round the body on my project.

So not much progress to report on..been busy lately doing a few domestic chores...
such is life
hoping to attack the front guards and put a patch in them (from the Jag's sheet metal) and then they're done...rear guards will be sent to the grit blasters, then on to a guy I know who can bash out the dings far better than I am capable of doing.

cheers
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  #6  
Old 04-18-2012, 05:12 AM
Aussie37 Aussie37 is offline
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Not much progress, just tore paint off the guards & bootlid.

Rear guards & bootlid are at the blasters now for a real clean up, after they come back, fronts will be done (after some cancer is cut out)

Cheers

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  #7  
Old 04-20-2012, 11:39 PM
fargo39 fargo39 is offline
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thats some nice work i like the jag set up
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  #8  
Old 04-21-2012, 09:08 PM
Aussie37 Aussie37 is offline
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Thanks.

The Jag rear has to be removed from it's cage - Dodge rails are too far apart to just add the unit. If it were chev or ford from the same age, the jag stuff just slips right in.
So I need to make a new rear X member & lower diff braces. Start on that bit later.....Just want to finish the guards that I've started on.
Then just put them away until it's time to bolt stuff back together.
Main reason I wanted to have the running boards & guards fixed up 1st was to make sure the wheels sat in all the arches right before comitting to cross member positions. So far the front & rear sit well at the original 115" WB. Trying to have all 4 wheels "clocked" so it looks right.

cheers
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Old 08-25-2012, 06:17 PM
Aussie37 Aussie37 is offline
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So I have no money for an expensive chassis punch/dimple die set.
I only have a right hand guard mount...(cowl to guard)

So I need to make a left one.
Instead of searching the planet,, I thought I'd have a go at hammer forming.

So after 2 x beers, I came up with this little "light bulb"

Grab one of these
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Use one of these

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To cut off a piece of this...

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The "borrow" a used ball from an ol' pinball machine, grind a flat spot on it

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bung the wood into the socket, and try it out on some scraps..

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Drag out the home made bearing press (this cost a total of 2 x new tension springs)

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chuck it all in there, and pump away!!

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Seems to work ok, I guess!!

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Used the same socket in the vise, and bashed out the round bits

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And I have a spare part I didn't have before.


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Close enough. It lives under the guards, so all's good.
My only dumb mistake was to drill the holes before pressing them with the ball. So they grew a bit. Nothing flat washers can't fix.

And the parts used cost bugger all!!

Last edited by Aussie37; 08-25-2012 at 06:19 PM..
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  #10  
Old 08-27-2012, 01:50 AM
fargo39 fargo39 is offline
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pretty slick once it's in no one would notice. nothing a few thinking beers can't figure out. i seen some other pics of your project what engine are you going to use?
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  #11  
Old 08-27-2012, 04:25 AM
Aussie37 Aussie37 is offline
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Thanks mate. I'll be visiting "the engineer" on friday to see if I am on the right path, and to discuss plans. New laws passed December 2011 have a lot of rodders miserable Down Under. So we'll see.

Engine will be a 5.0 Ltr. GM job. Not Mopar, I know. But I'm doing what I can with what I have. Cheers

Last edited by Aussie37; 09-02-2012 at 04:37 AM..
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  #12  
Old 09-02-2012, 07:35 AM
cornchewincowboy cornchewincowboy is offline
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Holy crap I was born when that was new, you're makin' an old cowboy feel old ya know!
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  #13  
Old 09-03-2012, 07:37 AM
Aussie37 Aussie37 is offline
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Growing old is mandatory....growing up is optional mate!

You're lucky to have seen a lot of golden age stuff.

And still be here with us. Cheers!
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  #14  
Old 09-04-2012, 09:06 AM
fargo39 fargo39 is offline
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what laws came in emmisions or horsepower? i have a few friends in calafornia building hotrods and kit cars and they had some crazy laws about building cars and plating them.
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  #15  
Old 09-05-2012, 04:02 AM
Aussie37 Aussie37 is offline
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Chroming suspension parts, and axles etc is a big no-no.
Emissions tests are done on the year of engine manufacture.

So if I have an old car, and use a motor from, say, 1990, all the exhaust, pollution gear, etc. MUST conform to 1990 emissions reg's.

Last edited by Aussie37; 09-18-2012 at 05:15 AM..
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  #16  
Old 05-09-2013, 06:58 AM
Aussie37 Aussie37 is offline
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Been looking around the traps for some rubber bits'n'pieces, like running board mats, door seals, etc. Hard to find the right stuff.... all the bits of rubber left behind on this carcass have turned into coal.


Managed to get the hinge pins out of the hood top (man, were they stuck!)

Stripped out all 4 x doors, gave the window regulators and the latches a quick clean-up. Will use these to start with, the offload to a restorer or something.

Got the rear guards beat out a little better, the left one is still pretty crook.

Need to organize a few mates to come around, and lift the shell back onto the chassis for a look-see if the wheels are clocked.
I'll be dropping off the doors one by one to the 'blasters soon, so the only thing left for a huge clean-up will be the main shell.



















Last edited by Aussie37; 05-31-2013 at 04:34 AM.. Reason: typo
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  #17  
Old 05-31-2013, 04:28 AM
Aussie37 Aussie37 is offline
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Got one door and the hood tops back, they cleaned up pretty well.





Need to fix up that ding at the lower hinge, it must have flown open at one stage in its life

Tried bashing the rear left fender too. I'm getting better at this!





Here's that fender before the boxing match





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  #18  
Old 06-12-2013, 04:55 AM
Aussie37 Aussie37 is offline
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Been tinkering with the headlight pods; got the Jag lights (7 inch dia.) mounted into the Dodge pods, and some USA made Headwinds 7" adapter rings (car only came with empty pods)







The chrome ring's only on there with sticky tape at the moment, just checking the fit. All good. Have to find a way of attaching the rings now.

Made a small mod to the rear doors, I found some cool projector lamps on the net, put these in the bottom of the doors, hook 'em up to the interior light circuit, and you see the Dodge Logo on the ground when the doors are opened. Cool hey?













Also started on the diff brace rods. heated & bent the plate I made to 35 degrees, am starting on mounts for the chassis rails next









Cheers
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  #19  
Old 07-14-2013, 06:11 PM
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Beverly Stayart Beverly Stayart is offline
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I like all the pics, especially the one of how you want it to look when finished.
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  #20  
Old 07-15-2013, 06:04 AM
Aussie37 Aussie37 is offline
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Thanks!

I got the torque bars in, but decided to make 2 x new ones for up the back.
So I made a new batwing (10mm thick) for this.



Now I'm convinced it's strong enough.

Also been making a new lower centre grille piece out of a spare upper one, and also the grille surround trim rings are shot. So instead of a $2400 NOS pair, I thought I'd have a go at making my own.
1/2" copper pipe is the right size, it'll be cut down to a half round profile after the bending's done.
Found some brass threaded stands from a furniture manufacturer (same ol' thread pitch too!)
Silver solder all this into place, then chrome it. Sounds easy! but it is kinda hard to do. Getting there however. I think the incentive of saving a few $$ keeps me going.










Cheers
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Old 07-15-2013, 06:04 AM
 
 
 
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