on a side note that Rich didnt mention. . .the AAM axels on the 3rd gens do not require any friction modifier since the LSD does not use clutches, instead it uses a series of worm gears which can be seen in the 4th pic.
you 2nd gen guys with the Dana LSD axels still need to have RTV and some friction modifier handy when servicing your axels.
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4/28/07 392hp 716tq on the stock clutch
10/20/07 425hp 798 still on the stock clutch
BIG THANKS to David and the guy's at James O'neal Dodge.
YOU GUY'S ROC
Man ... now you've got me wondering what the heck I put in there. It was just 75-90, but I don't remember if there was any mention of "friction modifier" or not.
on a side note that Rich didnt mention. . .the AAM axels on the 3rd gens do not require any friction modifier since the LSD does not use clutches, instead it uses a series of worm gears which can be seen in the 4th pic.
you 2nd gen guys with the Dana LSD axels still need to have RTV and some friction modifier handy when servicing your axels.
Right, it does say 75W90 Synthetic....absolutely correct.
Depending on how I'm using it, I use different fluids. If I KNEW I was gonna tow heavy, I would have actually gone with 75W-140 for the added viscosity. But, because my truck is gonna be sitting for A WHILE (like for about2 years here, pretty soon) I went with the dino oil.
Here is my reasoning. After SEVERAL 6 month - 1 year deployments recently (go figure), I have found (just my personal experience, take it for what it's worth) that with synthetics, it seems that after the truck has been sitting for a while, the fluid levels all seemed lower, especially engine oil. Also, the inital start up seemed a little harsher. Again, just my personal observation.
The only use my truck will be getting in a few more weeks is the wife driving it to work every once in a while to keep everything in order. It's a good 30 mile, back road, no stop and go drive to work, so it's perfect to keep everything lubed up and get it up at full operating temp.
And.....................I'm cheap. And to me, I don't buy into the synthetics unless I plan on doing HARD use or extended drains. I have yet (knock of wood) ever experienced a failure of a part that was the result of using synthetic or dino oil, if the vehicle was maintained at proper intervals and the fluid levels were kept in th normal range.
Are you fixin to go overseas to the big desert? Iraq? Dang it man, your truck is gonna miss you!!
No, actually I'll be in South America this time.
This actually should be a decent trip. The only thing that sucks is that I sure as hell ain't taking the truck with me. I could see that getting stolen in a heartbeat and making it's way into the drug trade.
I'll be taking my little Ford Focus instead.
I may have to have Drew come down from ATL, just to make sure that my truck isn't living too easy!
Thanks for the how-to... this will help a bunch. Stuff like this always seems harder than it really is.
Anyone have an opinion on whether it's better to drain while the oil is hot? I'm thinking perhaps hot oil would flow easier and therefore flush crap out of any crevices...
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1996 CTD 2500 4x4 long bed, manual trans, BHAF, TST #11 fuel plate, pyro/boost gauges, straight pipe, 260k mi
2005 Grand Caravan SXT, 100k mi
RE: Rear Diff Service - Lots of Pics!
1998.5 Ram Cummins 24 valve turbo diesel
