on the 24v's they use what is called a valve bridge. See how there are only 2 rocker arms to each cylinder, the valvebridge sits on top of both valves and the rocker presses down in the middle openeing both valves. Without it you'd have to have 4 rockers per cylinder.
By the way, nice Snap-On torque wrench. I may have to get me one of those, as my old Craftsman torque wrench just crapped out after about 15 years of use. I couldn't afford Snap-On 15 years ago!
By the way, nice Snap-On torque wrench. I may have to get me one of those, as my old Craftsman torque wrench just crapped out after about 15 years of use. I couldn't afford Snap-On 15 years ago!
Thanks. As far as torque wrenches go, Snap On are probably the best, IMO. They make fancier ones, but they are more prone to damage.
That is my baby one. I have its big brother in a 1/2" drive, but I still need to get a 3/8" drive wrench to fill the gap between the two.
Luckily a friend of mine works in the prescision measurements lab on base and he calibrates them for me every once in a while. As long as you don't drop them or bang them around and always store them at their lowest setting, they really don't need calibration. They will stay calibrated for years.
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04.5 Quad Cab DRW 3500
Edge Juice/Attitude & EZ, Mag-Hytec, AirDog FP 100, MBRP 4' stainless exhaust, S-ring AWOL, gutted intake tube and Swiss-cheesed airbox
Waiting to be installed: SB CON OFE (still)
By the way, nice Snap-On torque wrench. I may have to get me one of those, as my old Craftsman torque wrench just crapped out after about 15 years of use. I couldn't afford Snap-On 15 years ago!
Thanks. As far as torque wrenches go, Snap On are probably the best, IMO. They make fancier ones, but they are more prone to damage.
That is my baby one. I have its big brother in a 1/2" drive, but I still need to get a 3/8" drive wrench to fill the gap between the two.
Luckily a friend of mine works in the prescision measurements lab on base and he calibrates them for me every once in a while. As long as you don't drop them or bang them around and always store them at their lowest setting, they really don't need calibration. They will stay calibrated for years.
I work in a lab just like your friend does. . .snap-on and CDI are the ones that we have the fewest problems out of, and are also the easiest to adjust if they are out. you also have to remember to set them back to their lowest setting or you'll damage the spring.
it's always fun doing the 1000ft-lb wrenches, we even have the ability to check up to 2500ft-lb
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4/28/07 392hp 716tq on the stock clutch
10/20/07 425hp 798 still on the stock clutch
BIG THANKS to David and the guy's at James O'neal Dodge.
YOU GUY'S ROC
80-100K. . . .but you can do it when you start hearing alot of valve rattle.
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4/28/07 392hp 716tq on the stock clutch
10/20/07 425hp 798 still on the stock clutch
BIG THANKS to David and the guy's at James O'neal Dodge.
YOU GUY'S ROC
Awesome write up. I'm planning on doing this probably at my next scheduled service and I was on the fence about doing it or having it done. This makes it look pretty simple, I think I'll give it a go.
One question though, is the cover gasket reusable (pending of course that it's not damaged in any way) or should it be replaced?
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2006 2500 4X4 6speed
Line-X, Westin Step Bars, Lund Window Vents
Smarty, Amsoil 4510 air filter, MBRP cat delete & muffler, Rough Country dual stabilizer
Procomp Xtreme AT 305x65x17