Valve adjustment DIY

[Super Dave]

Before I did mine at 55K, I was hearing 1 valve tapping. If it makes a fairly distinctive tapping sound at idle, you might want to check the valves. I know the manual says 120K for adjustment, but I prefer to do it more often. Valves usually loosen up with time, but if they start tightening up, you can't hear it and you won't know if you've stretched a valve stem until it's too late. I don't think you'll see your mileage suffer, but you should notice the extra noise, and the extra looseness can cause a hammering effect on the valve train and wear parts prematurely.

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[Drew]

also if the tapping goes away as the engine warms up then you do have a loose valve. . .however if the tapping continues on a 3rd gen then you have an injector issue

[chouseal]

Kinda hard to distinguish tapping from all the other engine noise. These things ain't no Lexus. But I'll check it soon. Thanks.

[Super Dave]

Yea, on a 96, it would be more difficult to hear. With the mileage on yours, it is probably time for an adjustment

[Drew]

yea. . .a 12 valve you just have to do. . .theres no listening out for it.

[crazykidjj87]

just wanna confirm...i get a i guess "clanky" sound when shes cold and once she warms up its fine. its kinda loud though.? valve adjustment is what im thinking? anyone agree?

[mopar1973man]

Just for quick reference to the Vavle Adjustment for the 24V trucks (2nd Gen's)...
http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/2002%2...adjustment.htm

[Maxram]

I just adjusted mine at 157K miles for the first time and this thread helped me tremendously!!

Thanks Dave for taking the time to do this write up.

[Goose6891]

I did my adjustment yesterday, but need to pass on some info that might save someones engine, seriously.

I've got a 2002 1-ton Dually with the HO CUmmins, 6-spd, with 99770 miles. I'm also a dragracer and had my ASE certs and an ATA in Automotive Technology so I familiar with engines,mechincs. I had to preface my statments with the info so I don't get accused of being a tard.....

So, to the point. I really loved the pics and all the other stuff that was posted. The process isn't new to me, but I needed toque specs and valve sequence to be adjusted. And it's the ORDER that turned out to be different on mine. Mine only had 5 valve cover screws and there was no tubes into it. Just the valve cover. I followed the order presented here and it was fine until I got to EXHAUST #3. Not only was there not a gap to be adjusted (at position #1) but the valve was open! I finished the rest and went to position #2 and found the same problem with EXHAUST #4, BUT EXHAUST #3 was loose and able to be adjusted. The point being - 3 & 4 are backwards, at least on mine, a 24V version. Where this would be dangerous is I went ahead and played devil's adcovate and adjusted to the letter the order. Well, when #3 gets to position 2 the gap is about 3/8-1/2"!!!! So someone that a virgin DIY probably may not catch the problem..... Aother thing that was different was their was no 'normal' timing mark on the crank dampner. The only mark I found waws a small square with a line through it on the FACE of the dampner. Furthermore, the engine was at TDC with this mark pointed DOWN at 6 o'clock, NOT up at 12....

Now, only one valve was actually in spec, but the rest weren't really out that bad. The #1 intake was actually tight. After I got everything back together (the reusable gasket is awesome!) Now it should be noted that I've noticed for a while now that on initial startup there'd be smoke out of the tailpipe, but not after I adjusted the valves. It's seemed quieter, smoother, and the test drive seemed like it had more power for less throttle. We'll see for sure when I tow one of our race cars again next weekend down along Mt. Hood...

Hope this os helpful to someone. I know what ws here already was a help to me.

Thank you!

[Cartalk2]

Super Dave -- Super job on 24 valve adjustment. Thanks you