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Hey guys, it's been a while, haven't had much time to get on, and only have time for one question. When wiring up gauges (60psi boost, 100psi boost, 30psi fuel Pressure) how do I wire them all to the dimmer switch? Is it ok to use multiple T-taps on the dimmer wire, or will it be too much load for the fuse? Or one T-tap and run them in series or parallel? I know there are a couple electricians here so I appreciate the help. Thanks
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1 tap.....preferably soldered. I hate those plastic clamp things. They cause more problems than they are worth. Then wire in parallel. If you do it in series, you won't need the dimmer switch.....they will will all be 33% as bright as they should be. While your at it, solder all your connections and use heat shrink.
And how many boost guages do you need?
2. What kind of solder do I use
3.Do I need a heat gun to use the heat shrink? because I dont have one
4.My outlook gauge is wrong because I have the boost fooler, and I only wanted a fuel pressure and a boost gauge, but the dash pod only came with three holes, since there is no plug I can put in the hole, I'm just putting in 2 boost gauges
5. Thanks again
[align=left]Use a tin/lead solder.....it works better than the lead free. Since you aren't drinking out of the wire, you don't need the lead free....lead free is required for driniking water w/copper pipe. The stuff with lead in it is also cheaper. Just try to not inhale the fumes while soldering. Use flux on the wires before you apply heat. The heat shrink tubing can be shurnk with a lighter, just make sure you slide it on before soldering the wires together. Why not get a trans temp guage? It would be more useful.
Ok, cool, I have a coolant, rail pressure, trans temp, boost, 2 pyros, speedo, and others on the outlook. I figured it would look cool to have a 60psi and 100psi boost gauge sitting next to eachother. It would be really cool if I could tap into the exhaust manifold and monitor my exhaust pressure for fun. Thanks
You can also use a hairdryer on high heat to shrink your tubing. Sounds like you pretty much have the soldering down, although I dont think I would use a seperate flux, just use a flux core solder and pre-tin the wires before you solder them together...should work fine, and last a long time.
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If you installed a aftermarket stereo you'll find that your using a adapter to fit the stock wiring. But you notice the dash lighting lead is present in the adater. So I ran a lead from ther back to the A-piller and hooked all the lighting up... No problems no mess... No tapping stock wiring...