DIY steering box install
#1
DIY steering box install
RedHead steering box install
DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK, IF YOU DO NOT HAVE THE TOOLS OR SKILL LEVEL TO COMPLETE THIS PROCEDURE, PLEASE PAY
SOMEONE TO DO IT FOR YOU. I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR YOUR ERRORS...
This DIY is to install a Redhead steering box. It is a rebuilt box that is built to tight tolerences by
the folks at http://redheadsteeringgears.com/ up in Seattle Wa.
Special tools... Napa pitman arm puller p/n 2289, anything not made in the USA will be in 2 pieces before
you get the pitman arm off... ask me how I know. (heavy duty steering kit install).
If your underside looks as bad as mine, I suggest an underbody cleaning prior to this procedure. I regretted not
thinking about this before working on it... Utah mud in eye's is not fun.
Start by breaking loose the 3 bolts that hold the steering box in place on the outer frame (18mm)
Remove both steering lines to the cooler and allow fluid to drain out into appropriate container.
If you have a steering brace, Remove the swaybar and steering brace.
Remove the nut off the sector shaft that holds the pitman arm in place
Remove the Drag link off the pitman arm. (note that I have a Thurenfabrication heavy duty steering kit with heims
so it looks different).
Go to Napa and get a pitman arm puller, p/n 2289
This tool will not fit right out of the box... it will need to be grinded down so that it will fit over the
sector shaft. It may need to be grinded on the top & inside so that it will fit between the pitman arm and
the steering box. I had to do both.
Remove the pinch bolt on the input shaft to the steering box (10mm)
Remove both hard lines going to the top of the steering box. you will need to remove the one in the rear 1st as
there is not alot of room to get at the front one.
Remove the mounting bolts and remove the box. Weighs about 30~40 lbs IIRC.
Drian fluid out into suitable container.
This is the new box... isnt it pretty?
Take all 3 bolts and thread them into the mounting holes to ensure that there is no debris or excess paint in them and
remove when done.
Take compressed air and blow out fluid from cooler and lines. You want to ensure you get as much out as possible.
I suggest you even take some fluid and force it thru the lines to flush out any old fluid.
Remove the platic plugs and fill with ATF4 fluid, replace the plugs
Mount the box to the frame. tighten to 145 ft lbs
Mount the pitman arm to the sector shaft and center the shaft & arm so you have the correct steering radius. Shaft
should be centered between lock to lock.
Once you are convinced you have the shaft centered, tighten the sector shaft nut to 225 ft lbs.
Install the steering box lines back onto the steering box.
Reconnect steering box lines to cooler.
Install the steering shaft back onto the input shaft of the steering box.
Install pinch bolt and torque to 36 ft lbs
Install the steering brace & swaybar (if removed)
Install drag link back onto pitman arm.
Fill resivouir with ATF4 transmission fluid and check for leaks
Start motor and move steering one way then the other to purge out air that is in the system.
Refill resiviour as needed to maintain correct fluid level.
Once all the air is out of the system check the lock to lock with the steering wheel and ensure full
range of motion is achieved.
Once no leaks are detected and steering function is correct, you are done.
DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK, IF YOU DO NOT HAVE THE TOOLS OR SKILL LEVEL TO COMPLETE THIS PROCEDURE, PLEASE PAY
SOMEONE TO DO IT FOR YOU. I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR YOUR ERRORS...
This DIY is to install a Redhead steering box. It is a rebuilt box that is built to tight tolerences by
the folks at http://redheadsteeringgears.com/ up in Seattle Wa.
Special tools... Napa pitman arm puller p/n 2289, anything not made in the USA will be in 2 pieces before
you get the pitman arm off... ask me how I know. (heavy duty steering kit install).
If your underside looks as bad as mine, I suggest an underbody cleaning prior to this procedure. I regretted not
thinking about this before working on it... Utah mud in eye's is not fun.
Start by breaking loose the 3 bolts that hold the steering box in place on the outer frame (18mm)
Remove both steering lines to the cooler and allow fluid to drain out into appropriate container.
If you have a steering brace, Remove the swaybar and steering brace.
Remove the nut off the sector shaft that holds the pitman arm in place
Remove the Drag link off the pitman arm. (note that I have a Thurenfabrication heavy duty steering kit with heims
so it looks different).
Go to Napa and get a pitman arm puller, p/n 2289
This tool will not fit right out of the box... it will need to be grinded down so that it will fit over the
sector shaft. It may need to be grinded on the top & inside so that it will fit between the pitman arm and
the steering box. I had to do both.
Remove the pinch bolt on the input shaft to the steering box (10mm)
Remove both hard lines going to the top of the steering box. you will need to remove the one in the rear 1st as
there is not alot of room to get at the front one.
Remove the mounting bolts and remove the box. Weighs about 30~40 lbs IIRC.
Drian fluid out into suitable container.
This is the new box... isnt it pretty?
Take all 3 bolts and thread them into the mounting holes to ensure that there is no debris or excess paint in them and
remove when done.
Take compressed air and blow out fluid from cooler and lines. You want to ensure you get as much out as possible.
I suggest you even take some fluid and force it thru the lines to flush out any old fluid.
Remove the platic plugs and fill with ATF4 fluid, replace the plugs
Mount the box to the frame. tighten to 145 ft lbs
Mount the pitman arm to the sector shaft and center the shaft & arm so you have the correct steering radius. Shaft
should be centered between lock to lock.
Once you are convinced you have the shaft centered, tighten the sector shaft nut to 225 ft lbs.
Install the steering box lines back onto the steering box.
Reconnect steering box lines to cooler.
Install the steering shaft back onto the input shaft of the steering box.
Install pinch bolt and torque to 36 ft lbs
Install the steering brace & swaybar (if removed)
Install drag link back onto pitman arm.
Fill resivouir with ATF4 transmission fluid and check for leaks
Start motor and move steering one way then the other to purge out air that is in the system.
Refill resiviour as needed to maintain correct fluid level.
Once all the air is out of the system check the lock to lock with the steering wheel and ensure full
range of motion is achieved.
Once no leaks are detected and steering function is correct, you are done.
#3
It ran about $300 plus core & shipping...
Yes it is way better than OEM, it is however an OEM box that has been "dialed in" with tighter tolerence components. I love mine! Having it on there a week now I've put some miles on the truck with it on there, under the worst conditions, steering feel is improved significantly from the worn out original box. Couldnt tell you how it would feel vs a regular rebuilt box from napa since I didnt go that way...
Yes it is way better than OEM, it is however an OEM box that has been "dialed in" with tighter tolerence components. I love mine! Having it on there a week now I've put some miles on the truck with it on there, under the worst conditions, steering feel is improved significantly from the worn out original box. Couldnt tell you how it would feel vs a regular rebuilt box from napa since I didnt go that way...
#4
#5
This writeup is linked up in the DIY thread tacked to the top of the forum...
I have ordered the heim that is loose along with the swaybar end links from Thurenfab... should be here in about a week.
Update... Steering feels rock solid (as it should) on some pretty crappy roads... AKA Calif. interstates...
I have ordered the heim that is loose along with the swaybar end links from Thurenfab... should be here in about a week.
Update... Steering feels rock solid (as it should) on some pretty crappy roads... AKA Calif. interstates...
#6
Steve, I know this is an old thread, but how is your redhead holding out? Did you see much difference. I am in the middle of rebuilding my front end (XRF Ball joints, New SKF wheel bearings, Spicer u joints in the axles), and found my steering linkage was loosey goosey. I am thinking about upgrading my steering to the updated steering design and adding a steering stablizer. I also discovered that my steering box is leaking. That is why I am asking. I figure I may as well do it all before spending money on an alignment.
thanks Norm
thanks Norm
#7