I have had my truck exactly one week today and my check gauges light is now on. 600 miles on the odometer. When I first crank the truck the voltmeter gauge moves back and forth from about 13 to 15 volts. After a couple of minutes it will settle down at around 15 volts. I called the dealer he said it is ok to drive but bring it in on Monday. Has anyone else had this problem. If so what was the outcome. I did a search and found a couple that had the same issue but did not see what the problem was. Man i miss my old truck 03 3500 CTD. Never had any trouble with it 70k on the odometer when I got rid of it last week. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Stephen

 

Is it on all the time, or does it go off ???

Your voltmeter going back and forth is definately normal when you first fire it up. It's reacting to the intake heater going on and off. Perfectly normal and nothing to worry about.

 

The check light I cannot tell you, but the volt meter is moving because the heat grid is cycling on cold days until the engine gets up to temperature. Good luck with your new truck

 

The check gauges light will stay on until the voltage comes back up after starting up. It takes longer to go off in colder climates because the intake heater steals so much voltage.

 

Thanks for you replies. It was around 50 degrees when I cranked it up. The light does stay on the entire time the truck is running. I am familiar with the heaters cycling on cold start ups from the last truck I owned. The heaters would come on and the lights would go dim and the hvac blower would slow down. I don't believe it was cold enough for the heaters to come on at 50 degrees. I have had the heaters come on in the am when the temp is around 25 degrees. This was earlier this week and no check gauges light came on. Still at a loss for what could be causing this.

Stephen

 

Sounds like you are having the same issue as I was having. Hopefully not to the point that I was having it.

Problem: The way the computer is set up, if it senses a difference in temperature between the intake air temp, the battery temp, and the coolant temp of more than 2.6 degrees, it trips the CEL. Now the CEL will stay lit as long as this is an active code. It it's not an active code, it will clear itself after you have made 2 significant trips without any new code being thrown. What I found was that 2 significant trips is 2 in a row, over 8 miles. Otherwise te code will not clear.

Good news: There is a flash to fix the problem, if it's what I'm thinking.

Bad News: My computer would not hold a flash for more than 3 - 5 days and would revert back to the original flash. I mean the ORIGINAL flash. As soon as it would, the CEL light would come one.

More Bad News: The flash that suppossedly addressed this issue, killed my power over 2K RPM's. It would fall flat on it's face. But, as soon as the CEL came on, I had all my power back.

As the othe cycling of the intake heaters. If it's below 65 degrees they may cycle. That's all that is causing the voltmeter to fluctuate.

Let us know how you make out. Good luck.

 

He's saying it's his check GAUGES light, not the check ENGINE light. I have both lights on my truck. It's the check gauges light that stays on when first firing up the truck. Once I get to 12 volts, it turns off.

 

Ahhhhhh, gotcha!

I think that is the one light I HAVEN'T had come on.

Dude, yer gettin' good at this.

 

Sounds exactly like the issue that I am having good luck. dude
my rig is still in the shop they had the cummins specialist in yesterday to help find the prob but no luck
so we shall see

I kinda liked the set up cumminalong was lookin at for his replacement but I don't Know about the 6.7
I guess I am confused less HP same torque how can that be a better set up

 

Huh?

The new combo is 350 HP / 650 TQ.