I have a 1991 dodge daytona es 2.5 liter non turbo. I am changing the fuel filter and I am confuesed on how to take off the fuel lines that connect to the filter. The connections are very corroded and cannot figure it out. If anybody can help me out on that I would greatly appreciate it.
When they are corroded, I cut the crimp at the quick-connect, remove the rubber lines, and use new fuel injection hose from the filter to the rigid lines, and use clamps made for fuel injection. Be sure to use fuel injection hose rated for SAE 30R9 and not 30R6, as the latter doesn't have a high enough rating for the output pressure of the pump.
Im looking for where i can get an online or free copy of the 1988 Daytona's repair manual, im doing the engine work myself, the head blew, and now i cant seem to get the electrical right, and its snowed in right now, anyone who can help me would be great, and any advice on what i can do to get more power from my 2.2L base non turbo would be greatly appreciated
i have wiring diagrams for all the years of the daytonas. i can copy it and post it on here or email it to you.
I just a 93 Iroc and going to do some work on it. Could you send me the wiring diagrams for it to scottwilk3@yahoo.com.
If you have paypal I could drop a few bux your way for them.
I am wanting to swap short blocks between a 1989 dodge daytona turbo and a 1989 dodge daytona non-turbo and was wondering in i would have a problem with the oil feed line for the turbo not being on the naturally aspirated block.
I am wanting to swap short blocks between a 1989 dodge daytona turbo and a 1989 dodge daytona non-turbo and was wondering in i would have a problem with the oil feed line for the turbo not being on the naturally aspirated block.
only thing i see that could cause a problem is the base pan the oil return line would be there, so youd need another pan, or do you want to swap JUST the block and keep the head and the pan??
Daytona Do It Yourself information
