Thanks Regina U.S.Top Care, I already removed the starter before I rec'd your helpful instructions. I found the ignition sense wire (fusible link) connection to the solenoid stud to be corroded and breaking. Installed a new connector but still have the high current draw which will drain the new battery within a few days. Does anyone know the amperage draw for the 2.4 journey with no aftermarkets?

 

Here is information from the Service Manual on the Ignition-Off Draw Test. Maybe this will provide some additional information for you.

The term Ignition-Off Draw (IOD) identifies a normal condition where power is being drained from the battery with the ignition switch in the Off position. A normal vehicle electrical system will draw from five to thirty-five milliamperes (0.005 to 0.035 ampere) with the ignition switch in the Off position, and all non-ignition controlled circuits in proper working order. Up to thirty-five milliamperes are needed to enable the memory functions for the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), digital clock, electronically tuned radio, and other modules which may vary with the vehicle equipment.

Excessive IOD can be caused by:

• Electrical items left on.
• Faulty or improperly adjusted switches.
• Faulty or shorted electronic modules and components.
• An internally shorted generator.
• Intermittent shorts in the wiring.

If the IOD is over thirty-five milliamperes, the problem must be found and corrected before replacing a battery. In most cases, the battery can be charged and returned to service after the excessive IOD condition has been corrected.
1.Verify that all electrical accessories are off. Turn off all lamps, remove the ignition key, and close all doors. If the vehicle is equipped with an illuminated entry system or an electronically tuned radio, allow the electronic timer function of these systems to automatically shut off (time out). This may take up to three minutes. 2.Determine that the underhood lamp is operating properly, then disconnect the lamp wire harness connector or remove the lamp bulb. 3.Disconnect the battery negative cable. 4.Set an electronic digital multi-meter to its highest amperage scale. Connect the multi-meter between the disconnected battery negative cable terminal clamp and the battery negative terminal post. Make sure that the doors remain closed so that the illuminated entry system is not activated. The multi-meter amperage reading may remain high for up to three minutes, or may not give any reading at all while set in the highest amperage scale, depending upon the electrical equipment in the vehicle. The multi-meter leads must be securely clamped to the battery negative cable terminal clamp and the battery negative terminal post. If continuity between the battery negative terminal post and the negative cable terminal clamp is lost during any part of the IOD test, the electronic timer function will be activated and all of the tests will have to be repeated. 5.After about three minutes, the high-amperage IOD reading on the multi-meter should become very low or nonexistent, depending upon the electrical equipment in the vehicle. If the amperage reading remains high, remove and replace each fuse or circuit breaker in the Totally Integrated Power Module (TIPM), one at a time until the amperage reading becomes very low, or nonexistent. Refer to the appropriate wiring information for complete TIPM fuse, circuit breaker, and circuit identification. This will isolate each circuit and identify the circuit that is the source of the high-amperage IOD. If the amperage reading remains high after removing and replacing each fuse and circuit breaker, disconnect the wire harness from the generator. If the amperage reading now becomes very low or nonexistent, (Refer to 08 - Electrical/Charging - Diagnosis and Testing) for the proper charging system diagnosis and testing procedures. After the high-amperage IOD has been corrected, switch the multi-meter to progressively lower amperage scales and, if necessary, repeat the fuse and circuit breaker remove-and-replace process to identify and correct all sources of excessive IOD. It is now safe to select the lowest milliampere scale of the multi-meter to check the low-amperage IOD.
CAUTION:Do not open any doors, or turn on any electrical accessories with the lowest milliampere scale selected, or the multi-meter may be damaged. 6.Observe the multi-meter reading. The low-amperage IOD should not exceed thirty-five milliamperes (0.035 ampere). If the current draw exceeds thirty-five milliamperes, isolate each circuit using the fuse and circuit breaker remove-and-replace process in Step #5. The multi-meter reading will drop to within the acceptable limit when the source of the excessive current draw is disconnected. Repair this circuit as required; whether a wiring short, incorrect switch adjustment, or a component failure is at fault.

 

Thanks Regina U.S.Top Care, I have already done the Ignition Off Draw Test (parasitic drain). I let the journey sit for 8 hours, with the negative cable removed from the negative jump post. The measured current was 4.0 amps. I must remove the negative cable from the post or the battery will drain....

 

The vehicle spent 2 days at the dealership. After diagnostic testing it is reported to me that there is a high starter draw / intermittent high off draw. Tech checked ignition off draw, found cluster causing intermittent high off draw. Starter draw found to be in the high 200 Amp range & at times 300 Amps. Tech suggests to first replace the starter to lower the cranking amperage and monitor vehicle for any further concerns. Tech secondly suggests replace cluster due to draw, as when cluster is unplugged, no draw.

 

I replaced the starter as suggested by the dealerships electrical technician. I returned the vehicle to the dealership as one could hear the blend door cycling approx 5 mins after key off. Tech performed diagnostic & calibration testing on the HVAC, reporting normal operation. Over a 2 day period the vehicle was monitored for off draw, and measured 30mA at this time. To summarize, I replaced the original battery, cleaned all cables/connections/grounds, replaced corroded / damaged ignition sense (fusible link) connector, replaced starter. Thanks to all with suggestions especially Jack(Regina)-U.S.Dodge Cares for replying with the requested Service Manual instuctions & parasitic drain test details. Also thanks to Dave-Canada Dodge Cares for following up.

 

i have a 2009 2.4se mine too started to slow crank and after several weeks nothing upon inspection the starter was compleatly shot and a new one fitted it now cranks like a sewing machine. i still have my original battery on the car

 

Hope we were able to help.