Hi all, I have a 2010 journey with 137,000 K's (86,000 miles). The last couple weeks the journey seemed to have a gradually slower crank at start-up. I removed the original daimler-chrysler 525CCA battery and had it tested at two different stores. Both stores reported that it was good, but low on charge, 12.3V Measured 530CCA. After the charge it was 12.76V Meaasured 521CCA. I re-installed the battery, it seemed a bit better at start-up. One week later, slow crank and then no crank. I put a charger on the posts for about 1/2 an hour and it started. I took it to PartSource for a starting system test, results were a good battery 13.76V measured 328CCA -10F Alternator ok, but low cranking voltage on the starter test 9.46V. I cleaned the battery terminals / clamps / jump posts / alternator + cable. I charged the battery overnight, 13.8V at the posts. 6 hrs later, with the car not driven, the post voltage dropped to 12.5V. What is happening & what can I do to get a strong crank to ensure starting? The starter looks to be very hard to get to. Thanks for any suggestions.

 

The battery is the reason ,on average the OE unit
will generally last 3.5 -4.5 years.
If it is the OE battery it may have been in service
since 2009 and any VDC under 13.0 volts will cause problems.
There have been posts regarding poor connections at the starter.

 

Hi Bigtsr, thanks for your reply. If it is the battery, then why do 2 bench tests, and an in vehicle starting test report it is a good battery? I cleaned the neg connection from the starter to the engine block. Still no change. Does the starter have to be removed to check the positive connection? I can see no other way. Thanks for any suggestions.

 

No the starter should not have to removed.
Batteries must be load tested to get the proper readings.
If the battery was load tested and deemed good then you
may want to try starting it in neutral to eliminate the tranny
position start switch.
Any battery I have ever had that had a fresh voltage of under
13.0 vdc was the source numerous problems.

 

It is not the tranny position switch, as the car has a slow crank. I found some rusted grounds, 2 near the m/cyl and 2 near the abs pump. Cleaned & still have the slow crank. I replaced the battery with stonger CCAs, still have slow crank, &dropping voltage the longer the car sits. I am testing for a parasitic drain. Anyone else ever have a battery drain issue on the 2.4 journey? Already checked for the obvious, interior lights, glove box bulbs not burnt out and working properly. Nothing plugged into the aux jacks.

 

Do you have any aftermarket installations on your vehicle?

 

Hi, thanks for joining in Regina. No aftermarket accessories. When taking an amperage reading I am recording 2.1`Amps. This will drain the new battery within a week. Please help with any ideas. Thanks

 

With Your current Meter connected, I would start by pulling fuses one by one.Maybe it will give You a direction.2.1 amps is a big draw!!Good Luck!

 

Spent a lot of time pulling fuses, and found M12 drawing 1300mA & M13 500mA. With both fuses removed I was left with 300mA. I removed the factory radio as it also has the clock module (M12 & M13) Thinking there may a short, and also because I could here the CD mechanism sound like it is ejecting a phantom CD approximately 5 minutes after key off & removed. No drop in current. During my engine testing I finally found the intermittent problem. There is a red wire to the starter which is allowing high current to flow through the circuit. (Not the positive cable connection or the solenoid clip wires.) This wire when stressed a bit will allow up to 6 Amps to flow, when held and moved slightly the current flow will drop to an acceptable 50 mA. Can someone please send me a link on how to remove the starter on the 2.4 journey. Regina, was there ever a recall or Technical Service Bulletin on this issue? Thanks. UPDATE: with the radio disconnected & removed I still hear the sound that I thought was the CD mechanism. I notice it makes this sound when the interior fan is turned off. Approximately 5 minutes after key off & removed it makes this sound again.

 

This is a STAR case for an intermittent no start condition that you can review.
Case Number: S1208000071
Release Date: 02/23/2012
Symptom/Vehicle Issue:
Intermittent No Start
Diagnosis:
Condition of a no start appears at times. May not have any fault codes.
Repair:
Tightened pin in cavity 57 of the PDC C3 connector, DG/OR wire, controls the starter relay circuit.

This is the information for the starter removal from the Service Manual.
2.4L Starter Removal


1. Disconnect and isolate the negative battery cable.
2. Remove throttle body (Refer to 14 - Fuel System/Fuel Injection/THROTTLE BODY - Removal) .
3. Remove starter mounting bolts (1) and negative battery cable (2) from transmission housing (3).
4. Remove starter motor (4) from transmission housing (3).



5. Position starter to move past the intake manifold.



6. Remove battery cable nut (5), ignition sense wire (4) and battery cable (1) from solenoid stud.
7. Disconnect electrical connector (3) from starter solenoid (2).
8. Remove starter from vehicle.