How many motor and transmission mounts for Dodge Neon SXT 2005
#1
How many motor and transmission mounts for Dodge Neon SXT 2005
Recently, I want to replace engine and transmission mounts for my 2005 dodge neon SXT, I hope some experts can supply any information about engine and transmission mounts for 2005 dodge neon SXT. If you know about how to replace it, it will be grateful.
#2
3.
1. engine front (passenger side of car)
2. engine right (front of car)
3. engine rear (on tranny, drivers side). To see it, remove the battery box.
Use a supporting hydraulic jack(s) and support the engine while you remove the bolts. Support BEFORE you remove ANY bolts and KEEP it supported!
1. For engine front, remove the plastic plug in the fender sidewell and using an 18mm socket and a whole lotta extensions (or a really long one), remove that bolt. Once removed, remove the two bolts (15mm?) holding the mount on and replace either the whole thing, or just the insert. You can replace the mount back on its spot, but I recommend you leave the main bolt out until you finish mount #2.
2. For engine right, loosen all the engine side mount bolts (two 18mm on engine/tranny, two (15mm) on engine support bracket). There may be a 5th bolt, I can't remember exactly. Remove the center mount bolt (15mm). Remove the three frame bolts (15mm)- one in the center iron piece, and two holding the frame side bracket. Then remove the engine side bolts. Either replace the entire mount, or just the insert. After fixing/replacing the mount(s), replace all the bolts loosely (hand snug), and then replace the bolt in the engine front mount as well and tighten all of them.
3) For engine rear (tranny), remove the battery and battery box. Remove the plastic plug in the fender sidewell and remove the bolt. Once removed, remove the two bolts holding the mount bracket onto the tranny. Either replace the whole thing, or just the insert.
For all of the steps above, it is ASSUMED you have the engine properly supported to keep excess pressure off the mounts you are not replacing as well as to keep the motor from crashing into the floor.
PS. As for mounts, I highly recommend you replace the OEM motor mounts completely with high performance mounts, OR use the OEM mounts AND add a set of performance inserts that make them stiffer and less prone to failure. I am on my 3rd engine front mount (did not learn my lesson and have paid for it many times over) as I have a manual and it takes a SERIOUS beating when I do some hard shifting. The other two have survived, but the engine front is starting to show signs of failure.
1. engine front (passenger side of car)
2. engine right (front of car)
3. engine rear (on tranny, drivers side). To see it, remove the battery box.
Use a supporting hydraulic jack(s) and support the engine while you remove the bolts. Support BEFORE you remove ANY bolts and KEEP it supported!
1. For engine front, remove the plastic plug in the fender sidewell and using an 18mm socket and a whole lotta extensions (or a really long one), remove that bolt. Once removed, remove the two bolts (15mm?) holding the mount on and replace either the whole thing, or just the insert. You can replace the mount back on its spot, but I recommend you leave the main bolt out until you finish mount #2.
2. For engine right, loosen all the engine side mount bolts (two 18mm on engine/tranny, two (15mm) on engine support bracket). There may be a 5th bolt, I can't remember exactly. Remove the center mount bolt (15mm). Remove the three frame bolts (15mm)- one in the center iron piece, and two holding the frame side bracket. Then remove the engine side bolts. Either replace the entire mount, or just the insert. After fixing/replacing the mount(s), replace all the bolts loosely (hand snug), and then replace the bolt in the engine front mount as well and tighten all of them.
3) For engine rear (tranny), remove the battery and battery box. Remove the plastic plug in the fender sidewell and remove the bolt. Once removed, remove the two bolts holding the mount bracket onto the tranny. Either replace the whole thing, or just the insert.
For all of the steps above, it is ASSUMED you have the engine properly supported to keep excess pressure off the mounts you are not replacing as well as to keep the motor from crashing into the floor.
PS. As for mounts, I highly recommend you replace the OEM motor mounts completely with high performance mounts, OR use the OEM mounts AND add a set of performance inserts that make them stiffer and less prone to failure. I am on my 3rd engine front mount (did not learn my lesson and have paid for it many times over) as I have a manual and it takes a SERIOUS beating when I do some hard shifting. The other two have survived, but the engine front is starting to show signs of failure.
Last edited by bg1995redneon; 12-18-2012 at 11:54 AM.
#3
#4
Notice I called it engine rear (tranny). so yes.
As for upper and lower mounts on engine front, if they changed it for 2nd gen, then it differs from the single engine front mount on 1st gen cars, and that would mean my notes for mount 1 is inaccurate. However, I can tell you that no matter if you have 1 or 2 mounts on the engine front, you are going to want to wait about finalizing them until AFTER you replace the engine right (car front) mount as you will need to raise and lower the motor using the hydraulic jack in order to get it into place more easily.
In any case, the car front (engine right) mount is the one that gets the most torque on it and is the one that fails most often.
Last edited by bg1995redneon; 12-18-2012 at 03:00 PM.
#6
tranny mount 07 caliber
Can someone please give me some advise on how to get a tranny mount properly lined back up to bolt back into place. The tranny had already dropped about 3 inches or so before i got it changed on my girlfriends car ive been using a jack but it seems to all move at once is there a step im missing, has anyone ran into this problem before?
#7
There are 4 total mounts on '00-'05 Neons.
Just for clarification: the actual engine mount is called the rear engine mount, per Dodge. The upper torque strut is the front right upper engine mount, and the lower torque strut is the front right lower engine mount. The transmission mount is just the transmission mount.
Just for clarification: the actual engine mount is called the rear engine mount, per Dodge. The upper torque strut is the front right upper engine mount, and the lower torque strut is the front right lower engine mount. The transmission mount is just the transmission mount.
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#8
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#10
How many hours need to replace these mounts?
I asked one mechanic to give me an estimation about how much to replace these mounts? His answer was 8 hours need to replace them and $75 per hour. What will be the actual hours, and is there any skills to reduce the time?
3.
1. engine front (passenger side of car)
2. engine right (front of car)
3. engine rear (on tranny, drivers side). To see it, remove the battery box.
Use a supporting hydraulic jack(s) and support the engine while you remove the bolts. Support BEFORE you remove ANY bolts and KEEP it supported!
1. For engine front, remove the plastic plug in the fender sidewell and using an 18mm socket and a whole lotta extensions (or a really long one), remove that bolt. Once removed, remove the two bolts (15mm?) holding the mount on and replace either the whole thing, or just the insert. You can replace the mount back on its spot, but I recommend you leave the main bolt out until you finish mount #2.
2. For engine right, loosen all the engine side mount bolts (two 18mm on engine/tranny, two (15mm) on engine support bracket). There may be a 5th bolt, I can't remember exactly. Remove the center mount bolt (15mm). Remove the three frame bolts (15mm)- one in the center iron piece, and two holding the frame side bracket. Then remove the engine side bolts. Either replace the entire mount, or just the insert. After fixing/replacing the mount(s), replace all the bolts loosely (hand snug), and then replace the bolt in the engine front mount as well and tighten all of them.
3) For engine rear (tranny), remove the battery and battery box. Remove the plastic plug in the fender sidewell and remove the bolt. Once removed, remove the two bolts holding the mount bracket onto the tranny. Either replace the whole thing, or just the insert.
For all of the steps above, it is ASSUMED you have the engine properly supported to keep excess pressure off the mounts you are not replacing as well as to keep the motor from crashing into the floor.
PS. As for mounts, I highly recommend you replace the OEM motor mounts completely with high performance mounts, OR use the OEM mounts AND add a set of performance inserts that make them stiffer and less prone to failure. I am on my 3rd engine front mount (did not learn my lesson and have paid for it many times over) as I have a manual and it takes a SERIOUS beating when I do some hard shifting. The other two have survived, but the engine front is starting to show signs of failure.
1. engine front (passenger side of car)
2. engine right (front of car)
3. engine rear (on tranny, drivers side). To see it, remove the battery box.
Use a supporting hydraulic jack(s) and support the engine while you remove the bolts. Support BEFORE you remove ANY bolts and KEEP it supported!
1. For engine front, remove the plastic plug in the fender sidewell and using an 18mm socket and a whole lotta extensions (or a really long one), remove that bolt. Once removed, remove the two bolts (15mm?) holding the mount on and replace either the whole thing, or just the insert. You can replace the mount back on its spot, but I recommend you leave the main bolt out until you finish mount #2.
2. For engine right, loosen all the engine side mount bolts (two 18mm on engine/tranny, two (15mm) on engine support bracket). There may be a 5th bolt, I can't remember exactly. Remove the center mount bolt (15mm). Remove the three frame bolts (15mm)- one in the center iron piece, and two holding the frame side bracket. Then remove the engine side bolts. Either replace the entire mount, or just the insert. After fixing/replacing the mount(s), replace all the bolts loosely (hand snug), and then replace the bolt in the engine front mount as well and tighten all of them.
3) For engine rear (tranny), remove the battery and battery box. Remove the plastic plug in the fender sidewell and remove the bolt. Once removed, remove the two bolts holding the mount bracket onto the tranny. Either replace the whole thing, or just the insert.
For all of the steps above, it is ASSUMED you have the engine properly supported to keep excess pressure off the mounts you are not replacing as well as to keep the motor from crashing into the floor.
PS. As for mounts, I highly recommend you replace the OEM motor mounts completely with high performance mounts, OR use the OEM mounts AND add a set of performance inserts that make them stiffer and less prone to failure. I am on my 3rd engine front mount (did not learn my lesson and have paid for it many times over) as I have a manual and it takes a SERIOUS beating when I do some hard shifting. The other two have survived, but the engine front is starting to show signs of failure.