Do-It-Yourself Step by Step 3.7L Nitro Water Pump Change Out
Hello everyone! I'm new to the forum and I just recently embarked on an adventure to change out my water pump that went bad. Here's a what i did to change it out.
2. 10mm, 12” Crescent or 35mm(with a long handle) opened ended wrenches
a. ¼’’ in a ¼” drive
b. 8mm (if applicable)
4. ¼” and 3/8” drive ratchets
5. ¼” and 3/8” drive 3” extensions
6. 3/8” drive 6” extension
7. Flat head Screw Driver with a small 6” shank
8. Star bit Screw Driver (not sure what size) Materials:
1. Water Pump
2. Water Pump Seal
3. Blue Silicone
4. Antifreeze (Generally one gallon of Antifreeze to one gallon of water)
5. Drain Pan
6. Trouble/Drop Light (if needed)
7. Shop Towels
8. Hand Cleaner Step 1: Remove Battery
The Battery is located on the driver’s side near the front over the fender well.
Disconnect the Battery Terminals from the battery posts with the 10mm wrench.
Remove the Battery Mounting bracket that is located in front of the battery at its base by using the 10mm socket in a 3/8 drive and the 3” and 6” extension in a 3/8 Drive. After you have disconnected the terminals and the mount, lift the battery out of the way. Step 2: Remove the Air Box
The Air Box is mounted to the passenger side fender well.
A. Open the top by popping loose the two clasps that are located on the front of the air box.
B. Lift the top off and remove it by disconnecting the clamp that holds it to the Throttle body using the flat head screw driver.
C. Remove the Air Filter.
D. Remove the return hose on the back of the Air box. It just pulls off.
E. Pull up firmly on the air box and it will come out
F. Disconnect the ‘In’ tube from the front of the air box as you take the air box out
G. Then pull firmly on the ‘In’ tube and it will come out as well. Step 3: Remove the radiator reservoir
The radiator reservoir is located directly over the electric radiator fan.
There are (5) star bit screws that hold it in place. (3) On top and (1) on the bottom corner of either side. Since you have removed the battery and the air box already, the ones on either side are easier to get to. The one on the battery side is still kind of a pain. I used a ¼” drive, ¼” socket with a 3” ¼” drive extension; I put the star bit into the ¼” socket.
Once you have removed all (5) screws, remove the small rubber hose that runs from the radiator fill line to the reservoir. It is located on the passenger side of the reservoir.
Remove the windshield washer fluid hose that is located on the driver’s side, there are two hoses but you only need to disconnect the one closest to you because if you connect the other one it will drain all of the windshield wiper fluid out of the tank.
After you have done all this, you should be able to lay the reservoir out of the way over to the driver’s side with the one washer fluid hose still connected. Step 4: Drain Radiator
The radiator drain is located on the bottom driver’s side corner of the radiator.
A.) Place drip pan under plug
B.) Use the Pliers and turn counter-clockwise to open it
C.) Remove the radiator cap to allow the antifreeze to drain quicker Step 5: Remove the Fan and Fan Clutch
The fan and fan clutch are held to the water pump pulley by a 35mm nut that is crafted to the fan clutch. There are (4) bolts holding the fan to the fan clutch, there is no need to remove them!
a. The water pump pulley has 4 holes drilled into the front of it. Slide the small shank flat head screw driver through one of the holes that is accessible and wedge it against the on the ridges on the water pump housing.
b. Place the 12” Crescent or the long handled 35mm wrench over the nut that holds the fan clutch to the water pump pulley.
c. Use the hammer to beat against the wrench counter-clockwise (to the left) until the nut breaks loose and turns freely.
d. Remove the fan and fan clutch and set them to the side out of the way Step 6: Remove Idler Puller
The Idler Pulley is located directly to the right of the tensioner pulley. It’s the smooth one located to the right of the ridged one on the lower passenger side of the front of the engine. To remove idler pulley, use the 15mm socket attached to the 3”, 3/8 drive extension, attached to the 3/8 drive ratchet.
Step 7: Remove Water Pump
There are (8) 13mm bolts holding the water pump to the engine.
a) Remove all (8) bolts using the 13mm socket along with the 3” extension and 3/8 drive rachet. (I tried to set them to the side in the order I removed them so that I could be sure to put them back the same way they came out).
b) Once all (8) bolts are removed, pull up and push down on the water pump to break it loose and remove it from the engine. Step 8: Install New Water Pump
1) Run a thin bead of the blue silicone in the ridge where the seal is to be placed.
2) Place seal in the ridge on the back of the water pump.
3) Put a layer of the blue silicone on the back of the bolt mounts on the water pump as well
4) Attach new water pump with the bolts you removed from it in the previous step Steps 9-16 are the reverse of Steps 1-8 Step 17: Refill Radiator
After everything has been reassembled, double check and be sure you haven’t forgotten to reattach anything.
1.) If you haven’t already, remove the radiator cap.
2.) Fill radiator and reservoir with antifreeze
3.) Refill antifreeze jug with water (this may need to be done several time)
4.) Start it up!
5.) Let it reach regular operating temperatures and the thermostat should open, pulling the antifreeze through the motor.
6.) Refill radiator (and reservoir if needed)
7.) Continue to refill until there aren’t any more air bubbles coming up through the radiator fill tube
8.) Replace radiator cap and that’s that.
I really hope this helps someone. Feel free to change the terminology, add to or take away from so as to help someone else and make it easier on them.
Written By: Andrew Tarpley
I know nothing about what you ask…… But will ask what kind of roads does she drive? We drive lots of gravel sometimes muddy roads and I can easily see the rear breaks are going to wear out fast due to the abrasives thrown into the rear disc breaks from the front wheels. I am not sure if disc breaks are a good idea on the rear wheels on these roads.
Thanks so much for posting the information on about replacing the water pump. My husband is in the process of changing mine right now. Have you had any other problems with your 2007 Dodge Nitro? My heater does not seem to be working. All the heat blows out the defroster none going to my feet. We will work on this after we get the water pump changed out. Thanks Again!!!