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Dodge Nitro The Dodge Nitro is a sporty mid size SUV that bound to turn heads where ever it roams. The Dodge Nitro is one fun ride!

Nitro Do It Yourself information

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  #1  
Old 01-28-2007, 02:05 AM
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Default Nitro Do It Yourself information

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  #2  
Old 09-28-2008, 06:37 PM
hstew04 hstew04 is offline
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Does anybody know how to disconnect fuel line from main rail. I need to bled bad gas from system
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  #3  
Old 09-28-2008, 09:27 PM
ericemery
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what motor does it have?

I think the 3.7 has a shrader valve that can be used to bleed or purge... not 100% on that though.
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  #4  
Old 05-25-2009, 07:15 PM
TARPLEY TARPLEY is offline
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Vehicle: 2007 Dodge Nitro SLT
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Does anyone know where i can find the belt diagram for a 2007 Dodge Nitro with the 3.7L? My belt slipped behind the crank pully and was destroyed lol
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  #5  
Old 05-29-2009, 10:53 PM
ericemery
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it doesnt have the sticker under the hood?
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  #6  
Old 06-01-2009, 08:09 PM
TARPLEY TARPLEY is offline
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Default Do-It-Yourself Step by Step 3.7L Nitro Water Pump Change Out

Hello everyone! I'm new to the forum and I just recently embarked on an adventure to change out my water pump that went bad. Here's a what i did to change it out.

Tools:
1. Hammer
2. 10mm, 12” Crescent or 35mm(with a long handle) opened ended wrenches
3. Sockets:
a. ¼’’ in a ¼” drive
b. 8mm (if applicable)
c. 10mm
d. 13mm
e. 15mm
4. ¼” and 3/8” drive ratchets
5. ¼” and 3/8” drive 3” extensions
6. 3/8” drive 6” extension
7. Flat head Screw Driver with a small 6” shank
8. Star bit Screw Driver (not sure what size)
Materials:
1. Water Pump
2. Water Pump Seal
3. Blue Silicone
4. Antifreeze (Generally one gallon of Antifreeze to one gallon of water)
5. Drain Pan
6. Trouble/Drop Light (if needed)
7. Shop Towels
8. Hand Cleaner
Step 1: Remove Battery
The Battery is located on the driver’s side near the front over the fender well.
Disconnect the Battery Terminals from the battery posts with the 10mm wrench.
Remove the Battery Mounting bracket that is located in front of the battery at its base by using the 10mm socket in a 3/8 drive and the 3” and 6” extension in a 3/8 Drive. After you have disconnected the terminals and the mount, lift the battery out of the way.
Step 2: Remove the Air Box
The Air Box is mounted to the passenger side fender well.
A. Open the top by popping loose the two clasps that are located on the front of the air box.
B. Lift the top off and remove it by disconnecting the clamp that holds it to the Throttle body using the flat head screw driver.
C. Remove the Air Filter.
D. Remove the return hose on the back of the Air box. It just pulls off.
E. Pull up firmly on the air box and it will come out
F. Disconnect the ‘In’ tube from the front of the air box as you take the air box out
G. Then pull firmly on the ‘In’ tube and it will come out as well.
Step 3: Remove the radiator reservoir
The radiator reservoir is located directly over the electric radiator fan.
There are (5) star bit screws that hold it in place. (3) On top and (1) on the bottom corner of either side. Since you have removed the battery and the air box already, the ones on either side are easier to get to. The one on the battery side is still kind of a pain. I used a ¼” drive, ¼” socket with a 3” ¼” drive extension; I put the star bit into the ¼” socket.
Once you have removed all (5) screws, remove the small rubber hose that runs from the radiator fill line to the reservoir. It is located on the passenger side of the reservoir.
Remove the windshield washer fluid hose that is located on the driver’s side, there are two hoses but you only need to disconnect the one closest to you because if you connect the other one it will drain all of the windshield wiper fluid out of the tank.
After you have done all this, you should be able to lay the reservoir out of the way over to the driver’s side with the one washer fluid hose still connected.
Step 4: Drain Radiator
The radiator drain is located on the bottom driver’s side corner of the radiator.
A.) Place drip pan under plug
B.) Use the Pliers and turn counter-clockwise to open it
C.) Remove the radiator cap to allow the antifreeze to drain quicker
Step 5: Remove the Fan and Fan Clutch
The fan and fan clutch are held to the water pump pulley by a 35mm nut that is crafted to the fan clutch. There are (4) bolts holding the fan to the fan clutch, there is no need to remove them!
a. The water pump pulley has 4 holes drilled into the front of it. Slide the small shank flat head screw driver through one of the holes that is accessible and wedge it against the on the ridges on the water pump housing.
b. Place the 12” Crescent or the long handled 35mm wrench over the nut that holds the fan clutch to the water pump pulley.
c. Use the hammer to beat against the wrench counter-clockwise (to the left) until the nut breaks loose and turns freely.
d. Remove the fan and fan clutch and set them to the side out of the way
Step 6: Remove Idler Puller
The Idler Pulley is located directly to the right of the tensioner pulley. It’s the smooth one located to the right of the ridged one on the lower passenger side of the front of the engine. To remove idler pulley, use the 15mm socket attached to the 3”, 3/8 drive extension, attached to the 3/8 drive ratchet.

Step 7: Remove Water Pump
There are (8) 13mm bolts holding the water pump to the engine.
a) Remove all (8) bolts using the 13mm socket along with the 3” extension and 3/8 drive rachet. (I tried to set them to the side in the order I removed them so that I could be sure to put them back the same way they came out).
b) Once all (8) bolts are removed, pull up and push down on the water pump to break it loose and remove it from the engine.
Step 8: Install New Water Pump
1) Run a thin bead of the blue silicone in the ridge where the seal is to be placed.
2) Place seal in the ridge on the back of the water pump.
3) Put a layer of the blue silicone on the back of the bolt mounts on the water pump as well
4) Attach new water pump with the bolts you removed from it in the previous step
Steps 9-16 are the reverse of Steps 1-8
Step 17: Refill Radiator
After everything has been reassembled, double check and be sure you haven’t forgotten to reattach anything.
1.) If you haven’t already, remove the radiator cap.
2.) Fill radiator and reservoir with antifreeze
3.) Refill antifreeze jug with water (this may need to be done several time)
4.) Start it up!
5.) Let it reach regular operating temperatures and the thermostat should open, pulling the antifreeze through the motor.
6.) Refill radiator (and reservoir if needed)
7.) Continue to refill until there aren’t any more air bubbles coming up through the radiator fill tube
8.) Replace radiator cap and that’s that.
I really hope this helps someone. Feel free to change the terminology, add to or take away from so as to help someone else and make it easier on them.
Written By: Andrew Tarpley
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  #7  
Old 10-11-2009, 10:47 PM
LincEIE LincEIE is offline
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Default Brakes on 07 Nitro

Its it possible to adjust the bias of the master cylinder on the Nitro. Just did brakes on the wifes ride and the backs were gone, fronts barely touched.
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  #8  
Old 01-06-2010, 09:59 PM
Hillfarmer Hillfarmer is offline
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Vehicle: 2008 Nitro; 1977 W150 318; 1993 W250 5.9 MPI
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I know nothing about what you ask…… But will ask what kind of roads does she drive? We drive lots of gravel sometimes muddy roads and I can easily see the rear breaks are going to wear out fast due to the abrasives thrown into the rear disc breaks from the front wheels. I am not sure if disc breaks are a good idea on the rear wheels on these roads.
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  #9  
Old 01-07-2010, 06:42 AM
LincEIE LincEIE is offline
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Standard city/hwy driving.
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  #10  
Old 01-23-2010, 02:58 PM
NitroDrvr NitroDrvr is offline
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Thanks so much for posting the information on about replacing the water pump. My husband is in the process of changing mine right now. Have you had any other problems with your 2007 Dodge Nitro? My heater does not seem to be working. All the heat blows out the defroster none going to my feet. We will work on this after we get the water pump changed out. Thanks Again!!!
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  #11  
Old 05-17-2010, 08:51 AM
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ok, changing plugs on a 2007 nitro r/t, do i need to remove the whole assembly on the top to get at the plugs on the driver side, or should i spend the money and let the dealer do it?
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  #12  
Old 05-27-2010, 07:09 AM
Hillfarmer Hillfarmer is offline
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Default It is an electric fan..

It seems something is wrong with the instructions posted by Andrew Tarpley on replacing the water pump on a Nitro. The Nitro uses an electric fan not a fan with a fan clutch attached to the water pump.
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  #13  
Old 11-26-2010, 03:21 AM
ladymef36 ladymef36 is offline
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Vehicle: 2007 Dodge Nitro
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Does anyone know how I hook up the Blue-tooth in my truck?
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  #14  
Old 11-27-2010, 08:16 AM
LincEIE LincEIE is offline
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Assuming you have a blue-tooth capable radio, it should just be a matter of turning the blue tooth on on your phone and then pushing the u-connect button on the radio.
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  #15  
Old 11-28-2010, 11:56 AM
TARPLEY TARPLEY is offline
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Location: Orlando, FL
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Default Something is attached to the pump

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hillfarmer View Post
It seems something is wrong with the instructions posted by Andrew Tarpley on replacing the water pump on a Nitro. The Nitro uses an electric fan not a fan with a fan clutch attached to the water pump.
Well boss there's something attached to it, fan clutch or not, you have to break it loose from the water pump.
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  #16  
Old 01-11-2012, 11:28 PM
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master tech master tech is offline
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Engine Oil Change Indicator System — If Equipped


Oil Change Required
Your vehicle is equipped with an engine oil change indicator system. The “Oil Change Required” message will flash in the EVIC display for approximately five seconds after a single chime has sounded, to indicate the next scheduled oil change interval. The engine oil change indicator system is duty-cycle based, which means the engine oil change interval may fluctuate dependent upon your personal driving style.

Unless reset, this message will continue to display each time you turn the ignition switch to the ON/RUN position. To turn off the message temporarily, press and release the Trip Odometer button on the instrument cluster. To reset the oil change indicator system (after performing the scheduled maintenance) refer to the following procedure.

Turn the ignition switch to the ON position. Do not start the engine.
Fully depress the accelerator pedal, slowly, three times within 10 seconds.
Turn the ignition switch to the OFF/LOCK position.
Note: If the indicator message illuminates when you start the vehicle, the oil change indicator system did not reset. If necessary repeat this procedure.
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  #17  
Old 01-17-2012, 07:51 PM
stitcho stitcho is offline
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Default Rear Differential

I took my nitro in for a trans service. When picking up my car, they informed me that the rear differential needed immediate service. The price of $250 blew my brain so i left and wanted to research if this price is right. Anyone out there know how much a nitro differential service should cost? They say it has to be serviced and wont say if it needs to be replaced, UGH.
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  #18  
Old 01-17-2012, 07:53 PM
stitcho stitcho is offline
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Thanks, this was very helpful!

Quote:
Originally Posted by master tech View Post
Engine Oil Change Indicator System — If Equipped


Oil Change Required
Your vehicle is equipped with an engine oil change indicator system. The “Oil Change Required” message will flash in the EVIC display for approximately five seconds after a single chime has sounded, to indicate the next scheduled oil change interval. The engine oil change indicator system is duty-cycle based, which means the engine oil change interval may fluctuate dependent upon your personal driving style.

Unless reset, this message will continue to display each time you turn the ignition switch to the ON/RUN position. To turn off the message temporarily, press and release the Trip Odometer button on the instrument cluster. To reset the oil change indicator system (after performing the scheduled maintenance) refer to the following procedure.

Turn the ignition switch to the ON position. Do not start the engine.
Fully depress the accelerator pedal, slowly, three times within 10 seconds.
Turn the ignition switch to the OFF/LOCK position.
Note: If the indicator message illuminates when you start the vehicle, the oil change indicator system did not reset. If necessary repeat this procedure.
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  #19  
Old 05-25-2012, 12:47 AM
Dave MacLeod Dave MacLeod is offline
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is it common for a 2008 dodge nitro to use a litre of oil between oil changes on a 3.8
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  #20  
Old 05-25-2012, 11:28 AM
Hillfarmer Hillfarmer is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave MacLeod View Post
is it common for a 2008 dodge nitro to use a litre of oil between oil changes on a 3.8

My 2007 never used oil and my 2008 never uses oil.

At high miles they probably could. I traded the 07 at 27,000 miles the 08 has about 48,000 on it.
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Old 05-25-2012, 11:28 AM
 
 
 
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2007, 94, antifreeze, battery, diagram, dodge, dogge, draining, hood, intrepid, nitro, radiator, refil, remove, windshield

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