The idea was from another forum but here are pictures andinstructions if you want to do this yourself.
It took me several hours to do one side since I didn't have any detailed instructions to follow but now I could do a side in about 1 1/2 hr start to finish. This is for a 2005 but I think all 3rg gens will be the same.

The lights are from JC Whitney as follows:
300189 STRIP LIGHT 3"Black/Amber 2 @ $11.98
320624 STRIP LIGHT 6" Black/Amber 2 @ $13.98
They are LED lights sealed in a vinyl strip so no worries about weather getting in.
You will also need the following:

24 ga stranded wire, 4 pc @ 10' each total 40' to 50'
In-line wire splice (4)
Electrical tape and small shrink tube about 1/8" inside diam.
Philips and long skinny straight screwdrivers
10mm wrench
wirestrippers, needle nose pliers
long cable tie like HVAC installers use for large round duct
small cable ties
soldering gun and solder (or crimp connectors)
Small flashlight
TORX bit (to remove headlight T40 I think?)
dental picks are very helpful

Start by removing the mirror glass. Use a flashlight to see behind the mirror.

For mirrors built after April 16 2007 go here http://dodgeram.info/tsb/2007/23-013-07.htm
I have a .pdf file for mirrors prior to April '01. .pdf files aren't supported here. PM me and I will e-mail it to you if needed

The only thing I will add to the linked TSB is the following:

After you release the locking tab, using another long flat blade screwdriver, place the blade against a flat spot on the mirror backing and GENTLY tap the handle with the heel of your hand until the glass pops off the carrier.
Remove both screwdrivers, using the adjustment switch, tilt the glass back to flush. Then you will have enough room to slide/pry the mirror the rest of the way to the inboard side and off the carrier.
Follow the remaining TSB instructions.

Remove the mirror from the truck. Follow this DIY in reverse https://dodgeforum.com/m_892300/tm.htm

Now that you have the mirror off and on the bench, lets fish some wires.
Remove the cap under the first pivot with a small flat blade screwdriver.



Then inside the mirror housing, remove the small rotating connector cap by prying under the edge of the cap CAREFULLY with a screwdriver until it pops up on each side of the place where the defrost wires exit.



Gently work around the backside of the cap and pull the top of the connector straight up and out. Dental picks work well for this job.This is what it should look like.



Next remove the bottom half of the connection by CAREFULLY prying between the underside of the connector lip and the round plastic housing. You can see the flat slots on the edge of the connector which have tabs that hold this piece in. I broke one tip but the piece went back in and it stays in. If they break you can silicone this piece back in since it is only the top which needs to rotate.



Now you can fish the wire. I used a big zip tie (the kind used by HVAC installers). I cut the locking end off then drilled a 1/8" hole in it to pull the wire. Starting at the end opposite the mirror housing, insert the end of the tie without the hole down into the tube and start it towards the housing end. You may have to try it several times until you see it in the bottom of the tube at the housing under where the rotating connector was.
Now using a stiff wire with a hook, pull the end of the tie up and push it out the tube.

Start the fish here.....

 

Finish the fish here.....



Next, insert two wires thru the hole you drilled and pull about 16" thru the hole in the fish so you have the wire doubled thru and pull the fish out from the housing end. and pull about 8" of the wire out for your connections.



Now, place the rotating connection back in, making sure that the new wire follows the channel with the defrost wires. The connector has a flat spot so you can't put it in the wrong way. Then replace the top of the connector making sure that it rests between the plastic posts. Then insert the new wires and the defrost wires in the slot in the cap and snap it back on.



Fish the other end of the wire out near the white connector plug and replace the foam plug and foam backer on the mirror.



Locate where you want the lights mounted and drill the appropriate holes for the mounting screws and wire. Install the lights. I used the provided screws and then shot them with black paint where they protruded so they didn't show. I held the lights back 1 1/4" from the edge so they wouldn't interfere with tilting the mirror.



I don't know if this matters for final connections, but make sure you use a continuity tester and mark both ends of one of the wires so you know which wire is flasher and which is courtesy.

 

Now make the wire connections inside the housing. I soldered mine and put shrink tube to minimize corrosion. then cable tie them down somewhere in the housing to keep them from working their way out between the glass and housing.



Now reinstall the mirror on the truck. Pull the loose end of the wire thru the hole in the door where the mirror control plug fits in. Sorry, no picture but if you got this far that one is easy.

Next, loosen the door panel, remove the screw behind the handle and the two screws at the bottom of the panel. Lift up and out along the inner edge of the panel closest to the hinges. You don't need to remove the panel, only loosen it enough to get behind the top 12".

Now pop both ends of the rubber tube that encloses the wires as they run between the truck body and door. The one on the door will pry out with a screwdriver. The body side is a little harder. It is held on with 4 plastic tabs. If you push on each corner (it's actually marked on the rubber), they will pop out.



You will need to disconnect both white and black plugs. There isn't much slack to do this.
Now use a stiff wire and fish it thru the plug end of the tube and into the door and then up thru a hole behind the panel. There is an unused one up near where the top door panel clip attaches. Make sure it won't be pinched by any clips. Hook the wire and pull it all the way back thru the tube and out at the plugs.



Now in front of where the tube attaches to the body there is a small grommet which needs to be removed. Use a pair of needle nose pliers. Poke a small hole in the center.



Use the stiff wire to fish around the hole with the black and white plugs and come out the grommet hole. Push the wires thru the back of the grommet in the hole you made and reinsert the grommet. Reinstall both ends of the rubber tube, reclip the door panel and replace all the screws.

 

Now fish the wire up to the headlight area. This works better if you remove the headlight first. Take the bulbs out of the lens. The green/white wire is the flasher, the yellow/white is courtesy and black is ground (not used here). Connect one new lead wire to each of the flasher wires. Install the inline connectors, tape them up and replace the headlight. For more info on how the wiring works see this link:

http://www.danielsternlighting.com/t...rkerflash.html





Before you put the mirror or headlight on test the lights out. To replace the mirror, tilt the carrier outbound. Reconnect the defrost connections. While holding the glass in the housing along the inboard side, line up the four tabs with the slots then at the same time, push slightly in against the mirror and outboard. The mirror will click when fully engaged. This is what you should end up with.

 

wow thats alot of work! good job

 

if it dident look like so much work i would try it (hoping you say no and talk me into doing it). the blinkers in the mirrors are the only thing i miss from my ford truck.... plus what you did looks real nice and clean!

 

Great.....! just what I need, more running lights on my truck

 

Thanks for the compliments!

It was a bit of work but I wanted a clean look with the wires.The hardest part was fishing the wire thru the door and up to the fender after the mirrors were back on.

I don't have any gauges (yet ) but from reading DIY's on them, I don't think it's much more involved than putting in an EGT or trans temp gauge in an A-pillar mount with all the wire routing needed for that.

 

Gauges aren't hard at all! I like the lights on the mirrors! they look great! I have the same lights on my running boards and unfortunately one bulb burned out so i am going to try to get jcwhitney to replace it for me. They were only 2 months old.Ihave always wanted lights on my mirrorsbut the aftermarket mirrors with them don't look right. Just imo. I might have to try your set up!

 

I can't see the pictures you guys are talking about and I would like to see them very bad. I have been wanting to do this for the past 3 months but haven't had the time. How do you guys view the pics?