Changed both crank and cam position sensors truck still runs horribly, now the codes are p0251, p0340, p0341, p0088 any ideas? I"m almost to the point of setting it on fire!!!!!!!!!!

 

What was it doing in the first place?

What year truck?

Need some details.

 

Sorry, it was running fine, then out of the blue it made a noise sorta like a backfire, then started running "rough" for lack of a better word. Limped it home about a mile, the code it threw was p0016, looked on here & sounded like cam/crank sensors, changed them, checked all wiring, checked continuity, everything seems fine, but still not running right. Also it threw p0340 p0341 but those are gone now & back to just p0016 again. Truck is a 2005 RAM 2500 with 5.9 cummins.

 

do you have a programmer or maybe two that your having troubles with? Maybe your having to much timing.. and its setting that code... just a thought.. You didn't mention if you had any programmer or not...
How is the tone ring its the ring that is mounted behind the crank pulley see if its bent or missing a tooth. or If someone has messed with it to get more timing out of the engine..

 

I was checking around and seen your other post.. you already check the tone ring... How long have you owned this truck?
maybe bad wiring somewhere.. have you replaced injectors of done anything to your truck out of the ordinary?

Seen on another Forum they had a injector replaced and few days later Up popped this code and they just changed the sensor and it was fixed... have you changed the sensor yet? did you buy it new Dealer or auto parts store? or is it used?
Coal Train what do you think?

 

will do some research on this for you as time permits, just have a hunch it's wiring.
been a while but there are some that commonly chafe.
thinking it's a group in the area of the oil filter but just not pulling it up right now.

 

WOW!!! Thanks alot everyone for all of the thoughts!!!! Unfortunately I broke down and took it to a mechanic, I had changed both sensors with brand new ones and also checked all of the wiring, both connectors on both cam and crank sensors showed power coming through on a multimeter, truck has never had a chip or programmer on it since i've owned it, but not sure about the previous owner as I bought it used at a dealer. I talked to my mechanic today and he had a laptop on it to check all of the specs, ran them against a truck that was running properly and told me that my timing was out at least 2 or 3 teeth, so he is certain that it's a mechanical problem, he said he was going to pull the timing cover to have a look, I suspect the timing gears some how broke, his hunch is the key way in the crank, or he thinks the cam is broken, but I haven't participated in any tractor pulls lately so i'm going to rule out the broken cam. I"ll keep you updated as I get information and thanks again for all of your helpful ideas!!! Also the injectors have never been changed to my knowledge but as soon as I drop one there will be a set of 90 HP ones to replace them.

 

Hummm Killer dowel pin Idk if they have them on Common rails or not??? I thought those was 12v only..
Good luck hope its a easy fix

 

No KDP issue on the 24V's and CR's; that's a 12V issue.

The CR's don't even have a shear key on the pump shaft to worry about like the 24V's do.

I'd tell the "mechanic" to not pull the timing cover and pull the whole front end apart on the truck doing so. It is HIGHLY unlikely that you broke anyting in the timing set. All you're going to be doing is racking up some labor costs.

Here is what you have to do to get at the timing cover.....you're looking at several hundred dollars in labor at this point, compared to what it likely a 15 min fix.



With that P0251 (CP3 Pump Regulator Control) and P0088 (Rail Pressure Above Max Limit) codes, I'll put money on it being nothing more than the FCA (Fuel Control Actuator) on the CP3.



Pretty common problem, but the good news is that it's not that expensive and takes all of 10 - 15 mins to replace. Unplug it, remove the three T25 screws, pull it straight out, and reverse the process to put it back in.

I've probably replaced 4 of these in the last month.

Let me know if ya end up needing one.

http://www.doghousediesel.com/catalog/i305.html

 

Well everone the culprit was revealed to me today, had 2 teeth broken off of the cam gear, 1 tooth broken off the injection pump gear and 1 tooth broken off the crank gear, looking into performance cam now, mechanic has all other used gears at his shop. Also curious if I put a mild performance cam in instead of a stock replacement do I need to change valve springs & push rods?